Ford 7.3 engine mileage
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Elder User
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From: Marietta, OH/Weirton, WV
Ford 7.3 engine mileage
Hi, how many miles is a 1990 F350 Navistar 7.3L diesel engine good for? And what things can I do to make the engine last as long as possible?
Jeremy
Jeremy
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From: SE Ohio, Meigs County
I have a 90 f350 7.3. I read (here on FTE i think) that you can get up to 400k on a IDI 7.3L before a major rebuild. But, like you, I'd sure be interested in what you can do to help make sure you get the most miles out of it before rebuilding. Good question!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: florida
i think you need luck, a good maintenance program, and most of all "don't run it wide open". the fellow who rebuilt my engine told me to hold it to 2200 rpm cruising and it will last indefinately. i take him at his word. 2200 rpm in 5th gear is 70 mph, 2200 rpm in 4th is 58 mph, and 2200 rpm in third 45 mph. when i hit the higher elevations i will just slow down. i have a gear that will make it to the top.
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Basic maint. such as fluids and filters are a must. You MUST maintain the SCA's to reduce the chance of cavitation. That will bring your engine life to an abrupt end. 7.3's are esp. prone to cavitation.
The coolent additives are avail. at ford and IH.
There are lots of threads here on performance. Doing a search on this forum will bring you a ton of info. One of the most simple and cheap is to cut the "fish bowl" and the deflector out from under your air cleaner lid for better air flow.
Run motorcraft glow plugs.
Don't crank on your starter for more than 15-20 sec. at a time & Let it cool for about a minute or two each time. They can burn out easily. They only cost $600 new!!
Good Luck. Enjoy. They are fun most of the time.
The coolent additives are avail. at ford and IH.
There are lots of threads here on performance. Doing a search on this forum will bring you a ton of info. One of the most simple and cheap is to cut the "fish bowl" and the deflector out from under your air cleaner lid for better air flow.
Run motorcraft glow plugs.
Don't crank on your starter for more than 15-20 sec. at a time & Let it cool for about a minute or two each time. They can burn out easily. They only cost $600 new!!
Good Luck. Enjoy. They are fun most of the time.
Last edited by cetane anyone ??; Mar 4, 2005 at 09:43 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: florida
i've done the soup bowl and cold air induction. i've done the large exhaust and just about everything the forum has suggested. i have not made any changes to the injector pump or propane hop up kits. i would like a turbo, but i worry if the idi will handle the increased pressures. i've added the sca's, but have not bought test strips. the sca's were just added to a rebuilt engine this week. the directions said they should be tested once a year or if fluids have been added. the small container of napakool was not big enough, so i bought the quart size and put in the right amount. i really do listen to people on this forum, because i have really learned about this truck here.
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From: Norfolk, VA
400k + is not unheard of or out of the ordinary. i'm at 233k & running strong.
make her last... hmmm...
synthetic oil. bypass oil filtration system. clean air, fuel & oil fiters. don't forget the CDR. fuel lube/conditioner in every tank. SCAs (supplemental coolant additives) and a coolant filter. good (read accurate, aftermarket) gauges so you can see what's REALLY going on.
learn which parts NOT to replace with aftermarket ones: thermostat, glowplugs, any others?
that ought keep you busy for a little while
make her last... hmmm...
synthetic oil. bypass oil filtration system. clean air, fuel & oil fiters. don't forget the CDR. fuel lube/conditioner in every tank. SCAs (supplemental coolant additives) and a coolant filter. good (read accurate, aftermarket) gauges so you can see what's REALLY going on.
learn which parts NOT to replace with aftermarket ones: thermostat, glowplugs, any others?
that ought keep you busy for a little while
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From: SE Ohio, Meigs County
I'm new to the diesel world. Recently purchased a 90 f350 7.3 auto CC dually. Changed fluids in it within a couple weeks of getting it, before I found FTE or knew about sca's and cavitation. So, i have a couple of questions:
1. Since it now has new coolant in it, do I still need a sca?
2. Any way to test for cavitation issues that have already happened prior to me owning it?
Thanks guys!
1. Since it now has new coolant in it, do I still need a sca?
2. Any way to test for cavitation issues that have already happened prior to me owning it?
Thanks guys!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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1. You can get the coolent test strips at NAPA, FORD, IH dealers.
2. Tougher question. It would be nice if you had a written record of the sca's by the previous owner. Most of us are not that lucky. There is not a way to retro check sca's from years gone by.
I don't know of an exact way to measure cyl wall thickness while the engine is intact. When they are apart, you can magnaflux and possibly sonic test them (someone correct me if I am wrong on that, thanks). Meanwhile you have to monitor them for fluids mixing in the wrong places. Coolent in the oil. Oil in the coolent. White smoke while driving/and having your foot in it. There should be a little black smoke. There might be some different opinions out there. These symptoms can indicate cavitation, oil cooler trouble, blown head gaskets,etc. depending.....
Can be tough to ID the problem sometimes.
2. Tougher question. It would be nice if you had a written record of the sca's by the previous owner. Most of us are not that lucky. There is not a way to retro check sca's from years gone by.
I don't know of an exact way to measure cyl wall thickness while the engine is intact. When they are apart, you can magnaflux and possibly sonic test them (someone correct me if I am wrong on that, thanks). Meanwhile you have to monitor them for fluids mixing in the wrong places. Coolent in the oil. Oil in the coolent. White smoke while driving/and having your foot in it. There should be a little black smoke. There might be some different opinions out there. These symptoms can indicate cavitation, oil cooler trouble, blown head gaskets,etc. depending.....
Can be tough to ID the problem sometimes.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 78
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From: Norfolk, VA
Originally Posted by GreatWhite
Recently purchased a 90 f350 7.3 auto CC dually.
1. Since it now has new coolant in it, do I still need a sca?
2. Any way to test for cavitation issues that have already happened prior to me owning it?
1. Since it now has new coolant in it, do I still need a sca?
2. Any way to test for cavitation issues that have already happened prior to me owning it?
2. not that i know of, but to expand on cetane's post - you could have your oil analyzed & find out exactly what's in that oil (coolant, for one thing) - a good lab (Blackstone is who i use) will be able to tell you more than you probably want to know.
3. BONUS ROUND! you have good taste, mr. shark... ford makes it, international shakes it.
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From: Norfolk, VA
Originally Posted by harleyjohn45
soulpatchfr, you are a gentleman. thank you
John, i tried replying to your email last night with a few comments - it bounced back, don't think you got it. can't EM or PM you thru TFE - send me a good email addy.
Elder User
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From: Southern New England
Originally Posted by cetane anyone ??
Don't crank on your starter for more than 15-20 sec. at a time & Let it cool for about a minute or two each time. They can burn out easily. They only cost $600 new!!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 477
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From: florida
i buy all starters and altenators at auto zone. they are cheaper and guarranteed as long as you own the vehicle. they have stores all over the country. i keep the reciepts in with my insurance papers. they can pull it up on any computer in any of their stores.