This problem has agravated me since I purchased the van. Dealer in another state so have not gone back to them. Randomly but more often than not all I get is a click when I try and start. Most of the time by jiggling the steering wheel and/or the shifting lever it will finally start but usually with 5-10 attempts.
I found last summer that if I went thru a ritual when turning it off the chances of a successful first time start were better but not always assured. The ritual...steering wheel exactly straight, pull on e brake before shifting to park, gently ease into park. Now after setting a few months without starting I can not get it started. Seems plenty of battery power but only get the click so it sits dead in my driveway. My first inclination is steering column area, neutral switch, etc...HELP.

Toward the end of the hot weather all of a sudden my AC unit stopped working..like nothing...checked fuses all ok? Any ideas where to start?

Thanks for any and all suggestions/ideas...
Tim

 

Hello and welcome to the Aerostar forum.

Let's assume you have already checked common problems like corrosion on the terminals, poor ground connection and battery condition.

If those are eliminated, the starting problem could be one of several things: neutral switch, ignition switch or starter solenoid. Based solely on personal experience with neutral switch failure, when they go bad there is no power at all the starter. No power, no click. Since yours at least clicks, the neutral switch could eliminated. (If this is wrong, someone please correct.)

The ignition switch can likewise cause intermittent problems of the kind you describe but are fairly rare on the later models like yours.

That leaves the starter solenoid. An inelegant but proof positive diagnostic is to whack the starter with a rubber/plastic mallet the next time this occurs. If the starter engages and works, chances are the problem lies in the solenoid/starter mechanism and a replacement starter is needed.

The A/C problem could be low refrigerant, failed A/C clutch, plugged orifice tube or any number of things. You would need to have high/low side pressure readings for a better diagnosis.

 

Welcome!


I agree with Aero that your problem is more than likely the starter solinoid or a loose/coroded wire in line with the battery and starter.

As for the A/C. An easy check is to turn the A/C on and look to see if the compressor clutch activates. If it does not, usually it means that you are low on coolant. I would also look around the area for sticky oil residue (Like on the hood and around the belts,) that is a tell tell sign that you lost your compressor. You can go to walmart and pick up a pressure gauge pretty cheap to check actually pressure. Just some thoughts for you before taking it in somewhere.

 

Nighthawk,
If it were the starter solenoid why would jiggling the steering wheel/ shifter sometimes make it work?(But not this time?) Or is that perhaps just coincidental? Thanks for your feedback...really appreciate it.

 

Don't know, but if it clicks but does not turn, then either the soleniod is defective, or for some reason not enough current is flowing through the starter. Since the whole system is actuated by a relay, and you are getting the click, I would start by testing the positive battery cable. If it has any obvious damage, replace it. Then if that doesn't work, you haven't wasted your money. Now if that doesn't work, remove the starter, and take it to an auto parts store that can test it. I know Autozone can, most other proably can too. They can see how it performs under various loads, and then determine if it is faulty. They can also isolate the soleniod.

 

Positive battery cable looks good. Starter pulled and taken to Kragen...tested ok both starter and solenoid. Bought a cheap chilton(looking) not price) and was looking at neutral switch on trans...manual does not even have the correct diagram of what the one I have looks like...what a waste. Anyway, what now, suggestions. Neutral switch first then ignition switch next. What about the diode box near the battery anything in there could cause non start?? Thanks for any and all help...suggestions...
Tim

 

That box is not a diode box, it is a relay box, and it has three relays there. Sure it can cause trouble, but not likely with the starter. However, the starter relay is right by the battery. It might be switching but corroded inside such that it doesn't work. Since your started tested ok, this would be the next place to look. It is sort of round, and has a lot of heavy guage wires connected to it.

 

timfogl:

A Question......Have you tried putting it in Neutral when trying to start it?

The shifter might be out of adjustment and not going over far enough when putting it in park but will work fine when put in Neutral. Have had this happen to me before.

Jay

 

Jay,

Yep, tried everyting between Park and Reverse and tried 100 combo's of holding my mouth "just right"???

Think I am going to order 1. Starter Switch 2. Neutral Switch and hope one of the two will solve the problem...if not on to the Ignition switch...

Thanks

tim

 

Tim:

Before you buy the Neutral switch you should be able to unplug it and put a jumper across it. If it starts then....a bad switch. If not it's something else.

Jay

 

Well tried to send you a link picture of the item but the forum will not let me do it...anyway it is an NS95 found on a search at rockauto
An 8 connector female Plug goes into recessed area on the body of the switch.
How would I jumper anything??
Tim

 

To jumper, go under the hood. Get yourself a jumper cable, and clamp it onto the positive terminal. Now, if you touch it to the small terminal on the relay, (the one normally covered with the rubber boot) , the starter should crank over. If it just clicks, or it in any way acts like the motor isn't getting enough power, either the realy is bad, or the cable between the battery and relay, or the cable between the relay and solenoid. is bad, or the solenoid is bad. If it cranks over just fine with no problems, then yes, a switch somewhere is shot. I doubt it is your switch and here is why. The current to operate the starter does not flow through the starter switch. It couldn't handle the current. So they operate it through a rela and a solenoid. So you only need enough current to flow through the starter switch to operate the relay. If this fails to happen, the you won't get any responce at all. Not even a click. If it clicks, the the starter switch is operating properly. So the problem is on the high current side. So either the relay is faulty, or some other component on that side of the relay.

 

Jumped as you suggested. Starter switch does nothing but click. Cables as I said all look fine. Starter and solenoid tested at parts store...OK. I am going to assume it is the starter switch or neutral switch..any disagreement??
Thanks

 

Hold, you jump started at the relay? The relay is next to the battery. What does it do when you jumper the relay.

 

That is where I jumped it...at the relay. Nothing but click just like with the key?
Tim