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Ok, test the relay, the problem is not in the ignition or neutral switch. To test the relay, connect a multimeter set to the 12-20 V range. Connect the multimeters negative terminal to the battery negative post. Connect the + wire to the terminal on the relay that runs to starter motor. Now jumper the relay. If the reading you get is within 10% of battery voltage, the relay is working, otherwise replace it. You may want to disconnect the starter before doing this. If it works, most likely the solenoid is shot. Sometimes, in fact very often, a solenoid will work correctly when removed from the vehicle. So it may have tested good, but still be faulty. I would suspect the solenoid. There might be a way to test it however. Disconnect the wires connecting the solenoid and starter. Again, jumper the relay, and see if the solenoid is actually engageing. Or you could just replace your wires too, just to be sure.
..... An inelegant but simple diagnostic is to whack the starter with a rubber/plastic mallet the next time this occurs. If the starter engages and works, chances are the problem lies in the solenoid/starter mechanism and a replacement starter is needed....
Ditto Khantyranitar comments re: the solenoid can pass muster on the bench yet still fail in operation. I suggest you try this procedure on your driveway the next time the van fails to start. Still sounds like the solenoid is the problem.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Mar 8, 2005 at 01:24 PM.
Ditto Khantyranitar comments re: the solenoid can pass muster on the bench yet still fail in operation. I suggest you try this procedure on your driveway the next time the van fails to start. Still sounds like the solenoid is the problem.
Wish I had heard this before I pulled it, had it tested and put it back on?
"The Next time the van fails to start????" It has sit dead in my driveway for two weeks...so this won't be a problem.
Tim
The bench tester needs to be harder to pass. Like they need some kind of unit to mimic a real flywheel that the teeth need to engage and turn. Would be expensive, but foolproof.
PROBLEM SOLVED....HOORAY. It turned out to be the easiest to replace which makes me happy as he__. It was the starter relay near the battery mounted on the fender well...Thanks to all that had input and suggestions....REALLY appreciate the help/suggestions.
Is this the big relay with a bunch of wires bolted onto it? If so, I doubt it has anything to do with the A/C. More like divine intervention, if you are religious
The starter relay does not affect the A/C system..You might check the Wide Open Throttle (sometimes referred to as WOT or WAC) relay. It might be cutting out power to the A/C compressor clutch. It is designed to shut off the A/C when the engine needs more power, like in passing. Could be intermittently cutting out the clutch power through faulty wiring or relay. On my 92 3.0L it is the second relay from the firewall in the group of four relays attached to the driver's side fender well.
Are those little goodies covered up by a long black cover...about 7 inchs and called diodes?? I did fiddle with those but haven't had it out on the road so don't understand how that could make a difference??
These relays are located next to the starter relay and are covered by a long black plastic cover attached to the inside fender well. On my 3.0L there are four relays under the plastic cover and the EEC test connector is attached to the outside of this cover.