When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well guys, I spent the evening wrenching away on Project Rammer. I got the axle pulled out of my '75 F250 to use as a mock up axle. I need to either get a HP 44 or 60 SOOON, with disc brakes.
I need to run all new brake lines, build my own or buy a kit? I'm assuming I'd save alot of money by building my own.
Need to buy new spring pads (where the leaf springs sit on the axle, sorry for using the incorrect terminology) for my rear Dana 60. Need to buy shorter U-bolts so I can eliminate the 4" block in the rear and in turn, do a shackle flip.
What master cylinder should I run, I will be running 4 wheel disc brakes. The pickup cab/chasis is a '67 F100 2wd. I have the cylinder/booster out of the '75 F250.
Just how short can a rear driveshaft be? I'm having some issues with the divorced t-case and 115" wheelbase.
Well other than alot of questions, it took me a buddy about 2 hours to pull the front end off the '75, t-case, driveshafts, rear axle, and springs.
Starting tomorrow night, my '67 F100 is going to drastically take on a new appearance. I hope to unveil it Monday night, of course it will not be running for a while, but it'll roll around!
Umm, not really as there are other issues with that low pinion turd (i've looked into it). a hp 44 out of a 3/4 with discs is a much better choice, but a 60 is always better, but then rocky's and portals are even better . Can't wait to see some pictures.
Pickup should be rolling either tomorrow night or monday at the latest. It all depends on how long work takes this weekend. Then I'll have some poser pics. Lift with 30" tires! Badd@$$
Ramboss, is there a reason you need to buy new spring perches for the rear? Did it come without any?
Ideally, for you MC you should look at getting one from an F350. They'll be about 7" in diameter but a lot thicker front to back than the F250 booster. It'll give you considerably more stopping power. I agree with Mustange, don't bother with discs on that axle.
Your driveshaft length is not quite as big a concern as u-joint angles. If you start getting too XTREME you'll need CV's. When you get set to weld your perches to the rear axle make sure you turn the pinion up so it points directly to the T-case.
No friggin clue on the cheapest option for brake lines, sorry. How much lift are you doing?
The biggest problem I am having right now is a real short driveshaft for the rear with the diff pointing a long ways off. Thats the reason I need to get new perches, so I can point my diff to the T-case.
As for lift, i'm not sure how much its going to be for sure yet....I am putting my 4" skyjacker rear springs and 4" blocks in the rear of my '67 F100. I just need to mount up my axle tomorrow and the rear will be done till brake time. I'll know exactly how much lift will be in it tomorrow night, and hopefully I get time to finish my extended hangers.
I've run across a few deals on Ebay for complete bolt on disc brake kits for the Dana 60 rear for $249, this includes rotors, calipers, pads, etc. This seems fairly priced.....Or can I piece it together cheaper?
I also have a tire question. Are the hummer 36x12.50.x16.5 take off tires any good? For $100 shipped a tire, seems like a good deal for 80% tread.
And last but not least, anyone want to get rid of their HP 44 or 60? LOL
I also have a tire question. Are the hummer 36x12.50.x16.5 take off tires any good? For $100 shipped a tire, seems like a good deal for 80% tread.
And last but not least, anyone want to get rid of their HP 44 or 60? LOL
those tires are good for not-so-extreme mud fun and offroading, but not much else, they are a very hard tire and unforgiving on rock and pavement....although at the price they go for, they are good for someone just looking to get some rubber on his rig until he can afford what he wants....plus since they are so hard they last a long time....i dont own any myself, this is all from what ive heard from people that DO have them, but i can get them for 35 bucks a tire here in okc, i im gonna buy two sets and beat them to death until i can get some iroks.....
Well I guess what I'm saying is do you need to buy new perches or can you just reuse the ones that are on there? I ground them off of my D70 and will just weld them back in place with the correct pinion angle. Once you get that pinion pointed at the t-case you should have no problems with that rear driveshaft, especially if you're talking 4-6" of lift.
Thats a good deal for the disc brake kit. You CAN piece them together yourself for less, but not for much less . . . it's really not worth the hassle.
I ran into a major problem with my build last night............I had 3 buddies show up with alot of Coors Light.......Well once it started flowing, the work ceased. I also ran into a problem with my spring hangers. I was hoping to be able to use the ones on my '67 frame, I would have had to drill the spring holes, so I just decided to torch them off since I wanted to do a shackle flip. Got 'em off in no time flat, sanded the frame, primed the frame, painted the frame, painted the hangers off my '75, went to re-assemble and they didn't line up. So thats where I'm at with my project as of right now, I think I will just go ahead and weld them to the frame today. Then continue to work on my front hangers, and shackles.
Well I solved my dilema from last night today. Did a shackle flip in the rear also. I got my front hangers about 50% completed before I decided I was too tired to continue this evening. Hopefully tomorrow I get some time to work on it before I have to head back to college. If not I'll be home again Thursday to work on it again for a few evenings after work. I will see if I can't snap a few pics tomorrow in the light and post them up.