Ive got a 1987 f150 351w, c6, 4x4 reg cab short bed, with 31's. somehow it was not seen fit to buy this truck with a ls, and so i have open diffs front and rear. this creates some problems especially down here in southern calli were i want to be able to take it to the dunes and so forth, ive never gotten stuck only becuase its a ford, but i know its jut a matter of time. im looking at lifts and all that for it but i plan on gettin the ttb beams cut and turned so i can get some air with it. what i need tho is opinions about what i should do about those open diffs. i was thinking about getting a powertrax ls for the rear and a powertrax locker for the front. that will give me full 4wd but good street manners. this truck is mainly for street use with desert trips 1 or 2 times a month. im only going to be running 33's or 35's on it so i dont think i exactly need to get a full carrier replacment type locker, but if i do i want to get those new e lockers so i can drive it down the road normally. any advice on this would be helpfull. btw im not trying to spend alot of money cause im gonna be going to college within a year. so im looking to save all my money till then for as many upgrades as possible. thx in advance for any advice.

 

Locking the front on a mostly street vehicle may not be the way to go. I would lock the rear, ARB or E-Locker (selectable) You'll be better off on the street unlocked and wont wear out the tires as fast. Just my 2cents.

 

Well since i have manual locking hubs, shouldnt it not matter if the front diff is locked, i never really plan on using the 4wd on road, but i dont know that much about this. thx for the advice tho.

 

The only limited slip worth a crap in a 4x is the Powr Lok maybe just maybe the Torsen. If you plan on going with cut&turned beams, the Powr Lok would really be the most you would put on those ttb axle shafts. There are no alloy shafts available unless you have some made and that will cost as much or more than a Autofab, Camburg or Solo front suspension.

 

Actually you can get custom shafts for a TTB front end but the cost an arm and a leg though .

But i would put a power trax in the rear and a LS in the front, then the TTB will last longer under the high rates of travel with the cut and turned beams, and if you ever blow the 8.8 rear you can swap in a 9" with no problems.

 

what are you smoking?

locking the front is the BEST way to go on a DD. that's what i did with my trail rig and i HIGHLY recommend it. you never know it is there until you need to lock the hubs... then you will be able to go places most others wont! in fact if you are on a low budget i might even suggest welding the front diff for a full time spool. mine is still welded and i love it! i can lock one hub until things get real thick then i lock the other hub in and mat the pedal!

as for the rear if you are gonna lock it get a detroit... very strong and nothing to tear up (ie no air lines or electrical lines to get snagged)

-cutts-

 

Cutts, If my electric lines get snagged, I've got big problems because they are with my brake and fuel lines . . . And even if they did get snagged I'd have an open diff.

 

Your plan sounds good for sand operations! I wouldn't put that locker in the front for rocks or tight trails, to prevent axle binding. For rocks/trails you need a manual locker, ie. ARB, or OX, Electric etc. I think PowerTrax makes a no-slip, that is what I'm assumeing you mean by ls. That should be nice in the rear, but I havn't run one.

 

hmmm well i was looking at that powertrax locker and it supposedly isnt noisy which was the big reason i didnt consider it for the rear end, but since it isnt i might go that route. i am interested in going the welding route up front tho, because i could dirve around with it unlocked, and then if i dig in or something or i just want more traction unlock it, and i dont see that as doing any real harm to the front end, i guess so long as i keep it unlocked on one side when im just driving around or getting air. if i do that tho, what will i be sacraficing, and what all does it take, i have never done it, tho ive seen it done so a walk through or maybey pics would be helpfull....

btw thanx for the great advice.

 

i welded my front and i love it.... but then again i am running a D60 too!

RLH.... i see what your saying but to me it is just one more thing to worry about. if i had the cash i would prolly go the electrac.... no i wouldn't, lol i love my welded front and rear. it was by far the cheapest easiest and most effective mod i have done to that truck.

spd_envy.... you have the right idea. you can unlock and lock each hub separately and still be plenty useful. then when things get real tough lock both in. the one thing that i would want to warn you about is the steering. it puts a lot of stress on steering parts and can cause breakage pretty quick. i would seriously consider doing a hydro assist if you can to help alleviate that problem. i am in th process of doing that right now to mine.

locking the front like that (IMO) there is only one setback... your turning ability. . the only other thing ppl complain about is they have to jump in and out of the truck all the time to lock and unlock the hubs. i dont' see this as a problem but i can understand where it might prevent some of the lazy folks to refrain from welding the front.

-cutts-

 

it wont affect the turning ability when one is unlocked tho correct, because i can live with it if thats how it wrks out, most of the time it would be locked id prolly be driving straight anyways.

thx for all the advice, really helped me decide on what im gonna do.

 

this is correct.... one hub unlocked and you can turn as easily as if you were open

-cutts-

 

only problem is that puts alot of stress on one axle

 

the powertrax's isn't really the way to go, I would get a good aftermarket LSD.

 

There's only one good one, the Powr Lok and maybe the Torsen but I'm not convinced. There's always a minispool. You can really break stuff then.