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I had the warped rotors, the power door lock actuator problem, and now I am a member of the spark plug blowout club. 99 f250 Superduty, lariat, crew, 4 x 4. 80k miles
I had read about this problem before and though the chances of having it were slim. The fleet of 120+ v10's were I work has had 4 so far. I don't know if any were 2002's plus. Also when I called my repair shop they had a 5.4 in there for the same problem. Has any one had problem's with the later years of the v10's? This truck is beginning to show the signs of a junker.
99f350sd,
I had my plugs replaced at about 98000 miles. I now have 105500 miles on the truck. When I talked to the garage where the plugs were installed, they said they never heard of torquing spark plugs. My plan is to just go over them tomorrow afternoon with a torque wrench and torque them to 14 ft lbs. Im not going to remove them and add threadlock to the threads...better to leave them in and just torque them and keep an eye on them every 10000 miles. My question: Did you add threadlock or just torque? Opinions...
Oh goodness gracious....First of all never use thread lock on spark plugs. Use what the book says, anti sieze and torque to 84-168 LB IN ....Use 12 ft lbs and no more unless you read it in a ford manual.
Oh goodness gracious....First of all never use thread lock on spark plugs. Use what the book says, anti sieze and torque to 84-168 LB IN ....Use 12 ft lbs and no more unless you read it in a ford manual.
Surely he meant thread compound - like anti-sieze. Right Studenut65?
And Dick's right - tighter don't mean better. The '99 model's max is 14 lb/ft as is the later models. When you overtighten them you could crack the alum threads in the head.
Sorry Guys,
I did mean anti-seize. I was thinking one thing and typing another.... Those things, when they're stuck, are a bugger to get out...I'd never use thread lock. Anyhow, tomorrow Im gonna break out the torque wrench and tighten them to the correct torque. Is anti-seize important or can I just tighten them up to torque?
Sorry Guys,
I did mean anti-seize. I was thinking one thing and typing another.... Those things, when they're stuck, are a bugger to get out...I'd never use thread lock. Anyhow, tomorrow Im gonna break out the torque wrench and tighten them to the correct torque. Is anti-seize important or can I just tighten them up to torque?
Thanx guys,
Nate
In my opinion - Anti-sieze is the only way to get true torque. A little is good; a lot is a killer. You just want to get over the rough stuff, not coat it so that it will ooze down into the cylinder or onto the mating surface of the plug base.
working on movable bridges for a living i would like to add that anti seize is great for steel but never use it on any type of aluminum theads (copper flakes),disaster later on. hi temp grease ok.( 04 250 screw lb)
working on movable bridges for a living i would like to add that anti seize is great for steel but never use it on any type of aluminum theads (copper flakes),disaster later on. hi temp grease ok.( 04 250 screw lb)
The problem with spark plugs and aluminum heads is that sometimes they get corroded and will rip the threads out. Water gets down there and its a mess.You have to use the nickle anti sieze. Ford recomends using it so does haynes for the super duty. I torque to 144 in lbs and its not much so be carefull.
My friends 99 spit one out on the way home from camping. This is his second one and he has over 150,000 miles. He waited until 100,000 to change plugs. Local dealer did it. Soon after it shot the first one out. 25,000 more miles the second one went.
On the other side of the story, this is the only one that I have seen and know to be true. At my job we have a couple of v10s in vans. They are treated like poor work trucks, not maintained well and all have lasted longer than the miles that my buddies truck reached. So some trucks spit, and others don't.
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