Well as i stated in my welcome message when i join i wanted to lift my truck some more. Well I would like to know if anyone has a lifted truck 6" susp 3" body with 39.5x15x15 tires. I would like to know if i can squeeze em in the wells. Do they rub? What gear ratio? Kind of lift in rear(blocks or shackles). And what kind of work am i up against? I'm trying to get educated on this b4 i spend the money and do it! Thanks ya'll

 

Have you checked the user galleries? There are lots of pictures there as well as some tech specs in some galleries.

 

Check out my gallery. My Supercab has 6 in suspension and 3 in body with 39 Mickeys. I made it myself useing Ford 1 ton rear springs with helpers (13 leaves) and Chebby 3/4 rear springs used up front. That should give you an idea of the look.

Steve S.
To many to mention.

 

Check out my gallery too.

 

Hey 79 schafer,Good looking truck,nice paint job too,Was wondering how you went about getting the springs.Did you pull them at a yard...What did they come off of where do i go ,what do i ask for.I got a 78 super cab I want to do that to.Marks truck looks good to .I was toss'n around the idea of shackle flips .How much welding was involved in all that nice work?
lowering the shackles seems easy enough.What about lowering and flipping?

 

My springs came from a truck that a friend was sending to the scrap heap. I took the main leaf from Ford, removed the second spring then added the 5 leafs (6 spring pack minus the main leaf). Added new center bolt, a couple of leaf clamps, and bolted it back in. The negative arch spring pack is now a positive arch.

Disclaimer: I am ordering new springs shortly, becuase I have worn out way to many kidney belts and it is time for my back to take a break. This thing ride no different with or without shocks, and it does not matter how much is in the bed, it rides stiff.

Steve S.
To many to list.

 

Lots of welding I know I burned over 15# of rods on everything, bumpers too. And who knows how much mig wire.

 

Mark A, those shackle drops that you have, are they homemade or bought? I also have a 78 f-250 reg cab / long bed (its the POS in my gallery) that already sits pretty tall. I was hoping to boost it just a few more inches and I figure with some fender trimming (maybe bushwackers cut-outs) I should be able to fit 38's. I am trying to do it for cheap (because my bronco is taking most of the funds), and it seems that would be the cheapest way.

 

I added 4 1/2" of homemade body lift to the blue 79 in my gallery. Other than that it was pretty much stock.

 

I made all the hangers and shackels. I have a picture of my truck in my gallery with 38.5's and a 6" suspension lift. Your truck looks like a good starting point.

 

If you can handle a little suspension fabrication and you don't already have the body lift I'd really recommend going all suspension and not bothering with the body lift. They're far more hassle than they're worth. If you get springs try for the Skyjacker softride springs. They're awesome for flex and will ride 10x better than stacking leaves. I've got some pics in my gallery if you want some ideas.

 

Ivan
First of all I respect everything you have put on this forum, I read allot of your threads and learn from them, also enjoy reading you and your friends replys. So don't think I am any way because I am not.

But on the body lift, I have a 6 inch Skyjacker sup. lift and just put a 3 inch body lift on and I found no problems, outside of some rust, other than the front bumper, the front bumper was the bad point.
I was suprised that the fuel inlets would slide enough.
I bought this truck (1977 1/2 f150 4x4 short bed) 2 years ago and have no idea what was done to it before.

Also I mud drag, so the ugly looks of a body lift does not matter to me.
I would not recomend a body lift for a street truck where looks was important.

Ivan,
Let me know what I am missing here, because I got this forum to learn.

Thanks


David

 

There's a number of factors to consider with a body lift in addition to the goofy looks of the bumpers not meeting the body (this can be fixed with brackets) and being raised way off the frame. And yes, I realize some people don't care how this looks. Most people can't stretch their gas filler necks far enough, some can. If you can't you obviously need extensions. If you have an automatic you'll need to lengthen linkages from the column shift or it won't work. If you have a stick shift you may find you'll need an extension on the shifter or you'll be reaching down really low. Not the end of the world but it's a little bit of a hassle. You really need to keep an eye on your steering shaft. Many times a 3" body lift will cause a terrible angle at the rag joint which can make steering bind and can tear the rag joint apart. Some people (not all) will need to extend the brake lines. You'll need to figure out something with the radiator hoses because you're raising the radiator but not the engine. Ditto for tranny lines if you have an automatic. Granted, this can be done but it's a lot of hassle. So these are some things to keep in mind for a bodylift that you may run into. I feel like I'm missing 1 or 2 things but can't remember now.

I guess what I was saying though is not "don't do a bodylift". What I'm really trying to get at is if you don't already have a body lift and you plan to do a suspension lift it's often far easier to just add a few extra inches to the suspension than it is to lift the body, especially if you fabricate your own parts. Plus in the end you actually have more ground clearance under the frame. If he already had a bodylift, not a big deal. Or if he already had a 6" suspension lift I could maybe see adding a 3" body lift. I just don't see why someone would plan to do both when they could accomplish it more effectively with suspension only. Just some things to think about.

 

Your right Ivan about the linkage, I have a B&M pro ratchet shifter, so that was no problem with the cable shifter, but I forgot about having to notch my floorboard for my transfer stick.




David

 

I just lowered my rad 3" & didn't mess with the hoses or trans lines. I wouldn't consider a rag joint like Ivan said, way too much angle for one.