Torque Specs for Front hubs
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Torque Specs for Front hubs
I recently changed the brake rotors on my '89 F350 with a 7.3L. I When I reassembled the hubs I followed my Haynes specs which said to torque the bearing retaining nut to 50 ft-lbs and then back off 90 degrees. My front end is now making noise. Can anyone confirm this spec, or offer a better one?
Thanks for the help
Edwin
Thanks for the help
Edwin
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Torque Specs for Front hubs
Jack the wheel up and try to wiggle it. Is it too loose? If you have lots of slop, go in and readjust. I would adjust till the play goes away. You just don't want alot of pressure on the bearings or they will run hot. There is alot of stuff to take apart when doing this job, so I would just go over all my work again to make sure everything looks good. The caliper and the pads should be snug, or they will clatter when going over bumps.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Houston
Torque Specs for Front hubs
My Chilton has a little different recommendation for the '89 F350:
Rotate the rotor assembly while tightening the adjusting nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. in order to seat the bearings.
Back off the adjusting nut 1/8 turn.
Then it says, "If possible, check the bearing end-play. Proper end-play should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.254 mm)."
I can't imagine how they expect you to check for end-play of those dimensions. I usually just jack the truck up and try to wiggle the wheel top and bottom and front and back. The wheel should spin fairly easily, though keep in mind the normal drag of the brake pads and the weight of the wheel. If you can duplicate the noise turning the wheel on the jack, it might help you locate the source of the noise.
Rotate the rotor assembly while tightening the adjusting nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. in order to seat the bearings.
Back off the adjusting nut 1/8 turn.
Then it says, "If possible, check the bearing end-play. Proper end-play should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.254 mm)."
I can't imagine how they expect you to check for end-play of those dimensions. I usually just jack the truck up and try to wiggle the wheel top and bottom and front and back. The wheel should spin fairly easily, though keep in mind the normal drag of the brake pads and the weight of the wheel. If you can duplicate the noise turning the wheel on the jack, it might help you locate the source of the noise.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
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From: So Cal
Torque Specs for Front hubs
I am doing this from memory so be very careful what you believe from my writting. You might check the archives for trannies and drivetrain. There are several write ups in there including a few from me from about spring this year.
There are two locking nuts and a keyed washer on the front hubs for a 94 F250 4x4 with a Dana 50 axle(I think, I don't have my book or truck handy). The F350 probably has the solid axle and I think it may be a Dana 60? The Torque specs are different for the two locking nuts. The inside lock nut is torqued to something like 200 foot pounds, then the lock washer is put in place. I vaguely recall there is a small index pin on the insdied lock nut that mates up to holes in the washer. The outside lock nut is torqued to I believe about 50 foot pounds and backed off about 90 degrees or so.
Like I said don't take what I wrote here as gospel since I have brain rot and may be missing a few critical points. read the archives and check out the Haynes or Chilton manuals or better yet a shop manual. The key thing to figure out is what kind of axle you have. The procedures in the manuals are a bit confusing and it is easy to choose the wrong procedure for your axle.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
There are two locking nuts and a keyed washer on the front hubs for a 94 F250 4x4 with a Dana 50 axle(I think, I don't have my book or truck handy). The F350 probably has the solid axle and I think it may be a Dana 60? The Torque specs are different for the two locking nuts. The inside lock nut is torqued to something like 200 foot pounds, then the lock washer is put in place. I vaguely recall there is a small index pin on the insdied lock nut that mates up to holes in the washer. The outside lock nut is torqued to I believe about 50 foot pounds and backed off about 90 degrees or so.
Like I said don't take what I wrote here as gospel since I have brain rot and may be missing a few critical points. read the archives and check out the Haynes or Chilton manuals or better yet a shop manual. The key thing to figure out is what kind of axle you have. The procedures in the manuals are a bit confusing and it is easy to choose the wrong procedure for your axle.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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From: Virginia
Torque Specs for Front hubs
Jim, you got it backwards. My 1980 f150 is set up like you describe. I hesistate to comment on the later models, because I get the impression some of them are different. But, mine is like you described and the first locknut you put in, sets the bearing load. It's tightened and then backed off. It's also the one with the pin that faces outward. The keyed washer goes on next, and holds the first locknut in position. The second locknut is the one you crank on. It sandwiches the washer in place and locks everything together.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
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From: So Cal
Torque Specs for Front hubs
I think Franklin is right. While I was writing my previous comment I had an uneasy feeling because it didn't seem to make sense that the first lock nut was torqued the tightest. Franklin is right, the first locknut set the load and the second nut locks everything up tight like it should be. If I get a chance, I will double check in my manual. Before locking things up, make sure both sets of bearings are properly seated and lubricated. If they are lacking either, you may have a loose fit and or noisy wheel. Failure may be close behind.
Another comment. The keyed washer has holes in it. When you backoff the first lock nut you back it off about 1/4 to 1/2(bes sure to check manual) and then just enough extra to let the little pin on lock nut 1 match up with one of the holes in the washer.
Like I said, don't always trust what I write, check it out to make sure it makes sense. I am no expert and I have misplaced far too many braincells.
Jim Henderson
Another comment. The keyed washer has holes in it. When you backoff the first lock nut you back it off about 1/4 to 1/2(bes sure to check manual) and then just enough extra to let the little pin on lock nut 1 match up with one of the holes in the washer.
Like I said, don't always trust what I write, check it out to make sure it makes sense. I am no expert and I have misplaced far too many braincells.
Jim Henderson
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Torque Specs for Front hubs
Another thing that will happen if this is not put together right is, the locknuts can loosen and back off. They will work their way out and chew up the 4x4 locking hub. I bought my truck cheap because the 4x4 didn't work and this is what was wrong with it.
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