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Today in my wleding class my former auto mechanics teacher brought over 2 rearends for me to weld for posi. He showed me wear to weld and i did the work he told me that he would pull mine out so i could do it to mine what do you think it sure is a lot cheaper than lockers.
Its not a locker at all, its the equivalent of putting a spool in the axle which permanently locks the left and right axles together. In a daily driver, this setup on pavement will chew through tires very quickly since the whole point of having a differential in the axle in the first place is so that when the vehicle rounds a corner, the inside wheel can travel slower than the outside wheel. Welding the spider gears or putting a spool in the axle negates this feature and consequently, the slower moving tire will end up dragging every time you go around a corner because it will not be able to spin at any different speed than the outer wheel.
A locker or limited slip differential will engage when one wheel begins to slip then release again when traction is regained. This allows the wheels to DIFFERENTIATE speeds when rounding a corner or ANY turn for that matter.
Last edited by greystreak92; Mar 1, 2005 at 03:06 PM.
Welded gears are horrible in snow, too. You lose directional control. But like JLMoreno911 said, offroad toy? Sure. Just be careful when you apply the gas in slippery situations. Got a rollbar?
I am seriously considering doing this, i only drive about 150 miles a week on the road but spend many a friday night in a friends field diggin trough the mud, snow is no big deal we might get a 6 inch storm once a year and i definatly do not have the money to get a selectable locker or limited slip
Please listen to Streak and the others. Welding gears is an art form. Martensetic metal has a memory, especially forged and machined metal. If you take it to the mud every Friday night and the weld pops, you will have issues with hair on them. I'm betting that you can find a salvage rear end to match your front end with limited slip at a reasonable price. Try looking, it will surprise you. What you spend in replacing the rearend (and sell the one you take out also) will about equal the amount spent on tires and axle bearings alone within a year. Off road in mud I use a limited slip front/rear everyday and it works. A limited slip rear will do wonders and you'll be happy in the long run.
That would be alot better send me a message when your ready to sell, my other option is switching it out for a 9 inch rear which i am also consudering because i can get one cheap
See Mudrover06, that's what this forum is all about, I guarantee it will be A LOT BETTER than welding the cage. More versatility, driveability, and if his posts are any reflection as to how he takes care of his steed, a deal.
Personally, I'd rather have the correct rear end unless your going to build the truck. Are you running a 3.55 rear? If so I'd go with The Streak's axle. If you're going to change out the gearing to 4.10's or better, it's a toss up. Some of the guys who run modded Bronco's would be the best source of information. The point is moot if your not running a 3.54 front end though. You'd have to change at least one set of gears anyway. U-joint saddles from an 8.8" will or should be a direct bolt on. Lots of work, not that it's bad, to match up and make it right. I guess if I didn't like to work on my truck, I'd never have come to this forum anyway.
I won't knock the 9". Its capabilities are known far and wide in many different automotive circles and they were the original rear end in the Bronco for many years. The concern here is the model year of your truck. You will have no speedometer nor will your cruise control work, nor will the PCM (main computer) be able to make shift point corrections in the E4OD if thats your transmission type or make completely accurate engine performance adjustments due to the loss of information from one critical sensor... the VSS which is mounted in the 8.8 axle housing. The 9" has NO provision for the VSS or the excitor ring inside the differential that triggers it. So keep that in mind if your truck is new enough to have the VSS. You can tell by checking the top of the axle housing. If there are wires running to a bolted in sensor, you have a VSS.