Auto to manual tranny conversion
#1
#3
The hardest part would be the clutch pedal.But an auto Bronco should have a provision for a clutch pedal. A complete donor from a yard is the best bet.so you get everything you need.Make sure the truck you get the manual from has the same crossmember as yours and the tranny is the same length.Should be an easy swap cause the clutch is hydraulic.I tinkere with this idea before so i could help a little.
#4
You need to pick the right manuel tranny. The FM146, and M50D are bolt in swaps, no need to get freaky with your drive shafts, but a FM145 you will have to lenghthen the back shaft, and shorten the front. If you get the clutch pedal from a BII, or Ranger, thats not to bad. Don't forget to buy a new clutch kit while you have the tranny out, save you trouble in the long run.
#5
what about the shifter. would i have to do any cutting? and the hydraulic clutch, i would have to put another hydraulic pump, im pretty sure its basically the same thing as the break hydraulic pump. Where would i mount it. Also, I was thinking about thi because i know car manufacturers make cars that can be manual or auto, then they just put whatever elements in that they need to make it manual or auto. so technically there should be places for the clutch pedal and the pump and what not. How much do you think this whole swap would be and about how long to perform?
87b2guy
87b2guy
#6
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Somewhere Saskatchewan
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Hydraulic clutch
The hydraulic clutch doesn't need a separate pump.
It uses a cylinder similar to the brake master cylinder that is on the vehicle.
The clutch pedal pushes on the cylinder and the pressurized fluid is directed to a " slave cylinder ", similar to a wheel cylinder, that activates the clutch.
It uses a cylinder similar to the brake master cylinder that is on the vehicle.
The clutch pedal pushes on the cylinder and the pressurized fluid is directed to a " slave cylinder ", similar to a wheel cylinder, that activates the clutch.
#7
Everything is pretty simple with the swap. Um, the cutting for the shifter depends on which auto tranny shifter you have. If its column shifted, then yeah, your gonna need to punch a hole. Usually right next to the transfercase shifter if thats a manual shift. If you've got the floor mounted shifter, than it should just go through where the old shifter went, I can't remember, but I think I did make the hole there a little bigger. No, just listen to what the fella before me said about the clutch system, its not that bad.
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#8
awesome
so lemme get this right, the steps to do an auto to manual tranny swap are as follows:
1. find a ranger/bII with a manual tranny such as an M5OD. (is it possible to buy a brand new one for under 500?)
2. Swap out, swap in, everything should bolt right up. (hopefully) not to mention new seals and all
3. Clutch pedal, probably have to cut a hole for the cable, or is there even one with a hydraulic clutch? And bolt the new pedal on
4. Shifter, remove auto shifter and pop on a manual shifter.
can you guys think of anything else vital that will need to be done. i am seriously thinking about doing this. Will i have computer problems since the computer is made for a auto tranny? Linkage and what not that may need to be fine tuned?
Thanks
87b2guy
87 BII 2.9L v6 auto(for now)
so lemme get this right, the steps to do an auto to manual tranny swap are as follows:
1. find a ranger/bII with a manual tranny such as an M5OD. (is it possible to buy a brand new one for under 500?)
2. Swap out, swap in, everything should bolt right up. (hopefully) not to mention new seals and all
3. Clutch pedal, probably have to cut a hole for the cable, or is there even one with a hydraulic clutch? And bolt the new pedal on
4. Shifter, remove auto shifter and pop on a manual shifter.
can you guys think of anything else vital that will need to be done. i am seriously thinking about doing this. Will i have computer problems since the computer is made for a auto tranny? Linkage and what not that may need to be fine tuned?
Thanks
87b2guy
87 BII 2.9L v6 auto(for now)
#10
Yup, I'm smack dab in the middle of this conversion with my 85 B2 right now. I ran into a few snags such as the trans mount was shorter between its mounting bolts where it enters the crossmember from the automatic than the standard mount. So I just reused the automatic mount and it bolted right up. Im installing Mitz FM146 5spd "88 2.9 litre trans in place of an A4Ld "85 B2 2.8 litre. The Fly wheel, Clutch, pressure plate ,trans,transfer case (1354) and shafts bolt right in. I replaced the rear crank seal as well as it just slides in and out rather easily like a small donut. My biggest problem is where do the wires go now? Wires to the transfer case and speedo cable are fine. I just changed out the indicator switch at the top of the case for the other original one from the worn 85 case because it was different to connect to. However there is one short wire that comes down from the top of the trans at the shifter that nobody can seem to indentify and the connector for the brake light switch on the right front side of the trans is not present. I have a connector for the solenoid inside the A4Ld ( not used ) and I have the round five pin connector for the Neutral safety switch which I think I need to rewire for the brake switch ? Anybody run into this one? Also the clutch master cylinder from the "88 is of no use as it is non adjustable so my clutch pedal is all wrong. Any body know if there is a spare electrical connector under the dash of the 85 to hook up an 85 clutch master cylinder interlock switch? if I can get the clutch switch and pedal that goes up under there?
#12
clutch interlock switch assembly ?
Do you have the full 1985 clutch interlock switch assembly as well including the associated brackets, screws etc that support the assembly?? This is obvoiusly complete conversion so I would need the proper clutch pedal for 1985 ( brake pedal and main pedal support? are fine ),clutch interlock switch and its adjustment rod that it rides on, along with the associated wiring and connector(s). Need the clutch master cylinder and its clucth pedal rod too.You have my attention fastfalcon and boy!! to finish this up and get roadable !! Email me from my profile as I am new.Thanks !
Last edited by infoguy; 03-05-2005 at 01:32 PM. Reason: email address
#13
#14
Originally Posted by 018261
Hey if you've solved your wiring problem please let me know. I'm doing the exact same thing and have the same problem. If I find a solution I'll forward the info to you as well.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
My Site
#15
Question, just how much of a power loss is there in an automatic? My 84 has a c-5 in it and it is a little weak so I was planning on rebuilding it. Now I am wondering if it might be better to take the manual out of my 88 and put it in. What is the advantage and what would anyone suggest? Thanks