charging problems-fouling plugs
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From: Butner,NC
charging problems-fouling plugs
Here is what I have:
351W stroked to 393 ci / 10:8.1
MSD dist and blaster coil
105 amp alternator
autometer volt gauge
I've been having starting problems, thought it was the solenoid. Replaced it after charging the battery and motor fired but my amp gauge was reading 10 so I drove around 15 minutes but engine was busting out bad at 4500rpm ( it will do 6800rpm with no problem) so I knew I had some fouled plugs. Replace them, engine fired but still busted out at 4500 rpm and also noticed the amp gauge at 10 but at times go to the normal 12-14. Pulled it in the garage and checked the battery voltage; it had only 11.5 volts. Charged the battery back up to 12.8 and checked voltage with engine running to see if alternator was charging; it wasn't. I'm going to replace the voltage regulator to see if this cures my charging problems but my main concern is this charging problem making me not push my engine to 6800 rpm as before.
351W stroked to 393 ci / 10:8.1
MSD dist and blaster coil
105 amp alternator
autometer volt gauge
I've been having starting problems, thought it was the solenoid. Replaced it after charging the battery and motor fired but my amp gauge was reading 10 so I drove around 15 minutes but engine was busting out bad at 4500rpm ( it will do 6800rpm with no problem) so I knew I had some fouled plugs. Replace them, engine fired but still busted out at 4500 rpm and also noticed the amp gauge at 10 but at times go to the normal 12-14. Pulled it in the garage and checked the battery voltage; it had only 11.5 volts. Charged the battery back up to 12.8 and checked voltage with engine running to see if alternator was charging; it wasn't. I'm going to replace the voltage regulator to see if this cures my charging problems but my main concern is this charging problem making me not push my engine to 6800 rpm as before.
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From: Virginia
When the going gets tough in the combustion chamber(high engine load) and the rpm gets higher, you need enough spark to fire the mixture. If the truck's voltage gets low, that lessens your spark quality, and it's ability to jump the gap. If you want to make it less sensitive to this, you could check your sparkplug gaps and make them closer.
Most autos now run about .045, and the older points system ran .035 gaps. Some high dollar ignition setups will recommend widening the gaps up to .060 or higher. This will give you more power, but will make it more likely to missfire unless the voltage is very high(a CD ignition system) and the plugs are brand new, and the air to fuel ratio is just right.
Most autos now run about .045, and the older points system ran .035 gaps. Some high dollar ignition setups will recommend widening the gaps up to .060 or higher. This will give you more power, but will make it more likely to missfire unless the voltage is very high(a CD ignition system) and the plugs are brand new, and the air to fuel ratio is just right.
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From: Butner,NC
My problem is solved. I replaced the voltage regulator with the correct one. I have a 100 amp alternator and have been using the regulator for the smaller amp alternator which in turn was burning them up. With the correct regulator installed my alternator is charging the system so my MSD ignition is firing the plugs at a hotter rate and my 6800 rpm limit is back. No more fouled plugs.
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From: Butner,NC
Could you explain that #6 wire better to me. Is it the regulator plug that you are referring to - but I do need some help because the problem is back. My voltage gauge has dropped back down to 10-12 and when I remove the positive battery cable while idling the engine dies: my alternator is not charging again. I have no burnt or frayed wires anywhere and I'm stumped on where my troubles are.
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by stroker393
Could you explain that #6 wire better to me. Is it the regulator plug that you are referring to - but I do need some help because the problem is back. My voltage gauge has dropped back down to 10-12 and when I remove the positive battery cable while idling the engine dies: my alternator is not charging again. I have no burnt or frayed wires anywhere and I'm stumped on where my troubles are.I do not remember your problem. Either search down through the threads and reply to your old thread so I can get back up to speed on the history of your problem, or start a new thread explaining all the events and things you have done in the past with this problem. Don't worry, I like long threads with lots of info.
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From: Butner,NC
Originally Posted by stroker393
Here is what I have:
351W stroked to 393 ci / 10:8.1
MSD dist and blaster coil
105 amp alternator
autometer volt gauge
I've been having starting problems, thought it was the solenoid. Replaced it after charging the battery and motor fired but my amp gauge was reading 10 so I drove around 15 minutes but engine was busting out bad at 4500rpm ( it will do 6800rpm with no problem) so I knew I had some fouled plugs. Replace them, engine fired but still busted out at 4500 rpm and also noticed the amp gauge at 10 but at times go to the normal 12-14. Pulled it in the garage and checked the battery voltage; it had only 11.5 volts. Charged the battery back up to 12.8 and checked voltage with engine running to see if alternator was charging; it wasn't. I'm going to replace the voltage regulator to see if this cures my charging problems but my main concern is this charging problem making me not push my engine to 6800 rpm as before.
351W stroked to 393 ci / 10:8.1
MSD dist and blaster coil
105 amp alternator
autometer volt gauge
I've been having starting problems, thought it was the solenoid. Replaced it after charging the battery and motor fired but my amp gauge was reading 10 so I drove around 15 minutes but engine was busting out bad at 4500rpm ( it will do 6800rpm with no problem) so I knew I had some fouled plugs. Replace them, engine fired but still busted out at 4500 rpm and also noticed the amp gauge at 10 but at times go to the normal 12-14. Pulled it in the garage and checked the battery voltage; it had only 11.5 volts. Charged the battery back up to 12.8 and checked voltage with engine running to see if alternator was charging; it wasn't. I'm going to replace the voltage regulator to see if this cures my charging problems but my main concern is this charging problem making me not push my engine to 6800 rpm as before.
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From: Crosby TX
Originally Posted by stroker393
Could you explain that #6 wire better to me. Is it the regulator plug that you are referring to - but I do need some help because the problem is back. My voltage gauge has dropped back down to 10-12 and when I remove the positive battery cable while idling the engine dies: my alternator is not charging again. I have no burnt or frayed wires anywhere and I'm stumped on where my troubles are.Since the new regulator solved your problem, I suspect that it went out on you again. Most Auto Zone or O'Reillys can check it for you off the vehicle.
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From: Butner,NC
Update to my problem - This morning I started checking my wiring and what I saw put knots in my stomach. The main harness on the passenger side of my truck leading to the starter relay and voltage regulator and all the way to the ignition switch was completely burnt to hell. That was the smoke I saw from under the dash Friday when my volt gauge dropped back to 10-12 and now my problem is super major; man what a mess. 
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From: Butner,NC
On closer inspection of the burnt harness from what I can see it was only one wire which leads to the ignition switch (keyed cyl) plug, but that one wire has made a mess of the entire harness and I also found wrapped around the harness under the hood with black tape an original door key for my door locks. I do have a #6 wire from the BAT on alternator to solenoid and the harness between the alternator and starter solenoid is fine; the failure is from the solenoid to the keyed switch (the solenoid post wires are OK). I have a donor 69 truck to pull a harness from or do I go with new painless harness or EZ. Was it age that finally got it, the key wrapped around the harness, the ignition switch shorted or something. I'd like to know the cause before I start the fix or I may end up with the same disaster.
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From: Virginia
You could buy a fusible link and put it in this wire leading to the ignition switch. Or you could possibly put an inline fuse in there too, but you probably will have to put a 30 amp in there, and I don't know if that's big enough. Anyway, doing this will protect the wire till you get it all figured out.
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From: Butner,NC
Well I've got the wiring harness repaired and my truck is running again, but the alternator is not charging. My alternator is a 1985 Ford style with the top mount battery wire and a 3 wire (orange and 2 white) two prong plug. It is the external regulator type. Maybe its wired wrong; this is what I have:
black wire from alternator ground to chassis ground
orange wire from plug to the (F) reg. terminal
white wire from plug to the (S) reg. terminal - other white wire nowhere
#4 battery wire with inline fusible link and branched off yellow wire to (A) reg. terminal / battery wire to battery side of solenoid
(I) terminal has green wire going nowhere
I excited the alternator with a inline fuse jump wire hooked to the white wire going nowhere and to the (+) post on solenoid. The fuse blew (30 amp) but the alternator was charging at 14.
I NEED HELP.
black wire from alternator ground to chassis ground
orange wire from plug to the (F) reg. terminal
white wire from plug to the (S) reg. terminal - other white wire nowhere
#4 battery wire with inline fusible link and branched off yellow wire to (A) reg. terminal / battery wire to battery side of solenoid
(I) terminal has green wire going nowhere
I excited the alternator with a inline fuse jump wire hooked to the white wire going nowhere and to the (+) post on solenoid. The fuse blew (30 amp) but the alternator was charging at 14.
I NEED HELP.
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Posts: 56,984
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From: Virginia
when I remove the positive battery cable while idling the engine dies: my alternator is not charging again
Here's a diagram of how it should be hooked up. You should not have the "S" terminal of the regulator hooked to the "S" of the alternator. You probably have a factory ammeter guage, so you need to hook the red/green from the ignition to the "S" terminal of the regulator, and leave the alternator "S" terminal un-hooked(no connection except a factory electric choke). The "I" terminal is also not hooked to anything, just like it is now.
