Ok Here is the description of the problem

When I start it up it always fires right up but it runs rough and is down on power. It will not rev above 2k Rpm when cold

When I put it in gear it is slow to shift in to gear and it feels like there is no power brakes.

Once it warms up it smoothes out revs free and the power brakes seem ok. The power comes back to normal but the check engine light will then come on.

I have dumped the codes and I get a "Poor EGR flow” code

The truck will run fine around town but when I take it on the highway it will be fine for 5 min or so and then it starts to feel down on power and starts shuddering and backfiring through the intake. If I back down to 45 mph it clears up and runs ok but as soon as I take it back up to 65 it starts all over again. If is almost acting like it is running out of fuel. I have been researching engine management systems and found that one symptom of running lean is backfiring through the intake as well as a cam lobe that has warn down.

I spoke to the ford dealer about the EGR as I have replaced it last June and they said that if it is the problem then they will replace it for free. the Tec commented that he has seen the EGR control mogul go bad and that could be the problem. The cost of that part is $145.

What I have done to the truck recently is

Replace the EGR due to it braking when I replaced the tube that connects it to the exhaust manifold (it rusted at the manifold) I did this in June of 2004

Checked the IAC electronics and all checked out. Then removed the IAC and cleaned it and reinstalled. It was not dirty and seemed to be working properly.

Replaced the Fuel Filter two weeks ago.

New Trans in December of 04.

New fuel pump in December of 04

I have two questions

1. Any idea as to what the problem is?
2. I what is the mogul that the dealer is talking about and where is is and can it be tested?

Here is a link to a photo with two moguls near the IAC and the ERG. I am wondering if ti is one of these.
http://www.marx7.org/~dsmith/iac-egr.htm

I am thinking that it is either something wrong with my EGR, the EGR controller mogul is broken, I have an intake leak that is sealing when the motor heats and expands, fuel pump that is going bad. I am at my wits end on this one as I have been chasing it for about a month with absolutely no luck.


Many Thanks


Dean

 

Pull the codes and give us the exact ones to look at. Should be able to help sort it out. Black item in the pic looks like PCV valve but not enough detail to be 100% sure. If it plugs into Valve cover with hose going to intake manifolt vacuum "Tree", then that is it.
On the PIC, Metallic box is the DPFE sensor (or in other words, the EGR flow sensor). If code is EGR related, this is most likely the culprit. You can buy replacements at AutoZone for around $50-$60. Two styles available, metallic case like your pic, or plastic housing with tubes arranged slightly different (but a good replacement anyway)
May want to check out the tubes from the DPFE as a cracked hose will give similar codes also.
If you want to see if EGR is causing poor running condition, disconnect small hose to EGR diaphram and see if it runs better.(Note: it will definately set an EGR realted code during this testing) If no change, start looking elsewhere.
Dialtone

 

Thanks for the Quick reply!! I will get my book out and get the code (I wrote it in my service book). The black round thing is not the PCV it has two small vacume lines attached to it. I will get a better photo of it today and post it with the first photo. I will repost with the code's and when the new photo is posted.

MANY THANKS!!!!!!!!


Respectfully


Dean

 

Ok I added some better photos of that black piece that show it allot better. It has an electrical plug going to it and two vacuum lines at the bottom. It is not plugged in to the valve cover it is mounted to the metal bracket that is over the EGR.

The codes I am getting are as following

335 EGR sensor circuit voltage higher or lower then expected during self test
214 Cylinder Identification failure
332 Insufficient EGR flow detected
327 EGR position circuit below minimum voltage

Photos are here >>> http://www.marx7.org/~dsmith/iac-egr.htm

Respectfully


Dean

 

OK, much better. I think the black item is the EGR control soleniod. Check that one of the hoses goes to the EGR valve diaphram, if so, that is it. Its purpose is to open/close the EGR valve under PCM control. Actually, there are 2 electric soleniods that are pulsed by the PCM. One is pulsed to open the EGR valve by allowing vacuum to be ported into the diaphram, the other dumps off to atmospheric to allow EGR to close.
Codes you gave (most especially 335) indicates faulty DPFE sensor (or wiring connections to same), so it is good candidate for replacement.
Ignore other codes, as they could be caused by the 335. Work to clear any self test codes first, working ONLY on the first code given, clear the memory then re-test till all clear.
Then perform a driving test, and check for any stored codes again ONLY working on the first one given, as one code can cause others to be set farther down the test chain.
Code 214 is given from the cam position sensor , but may not be valid at this time due to other faults present.
Good luck
Dialtone

 

I found a DPFE sensor at Autozone for $55.00 Much better than the $145 that the dealer wanted. I am going to clear the codes install it and we will see what we get. I will let you know.


Respectfully


Dean

 

That was it changed the DPFE sensor and cleared the codes and it is running like a champ again. I took it for a test drive on the highway and all seems to be back to normal. MANY THANKS Dialtone!!!!!!! YOUR IMPUTE ON THIS MATTER WAS VERY HELPFUL.


Respectfully


Dean

 

Glad I could help. That is what this forum is all about.
Dialtone