Gasket Sealer on Intake Manifold Gaskets
#31
Edelbrock specify the printoseal gaskets for their aluminum intakes foe what it's worth. I use 4 studs at the corners, drop the gaskets over them, and then drop the manifold in place. It then drops straight down in perfect alignment, with no possibility of a gasket sliding out. Mine was last worked on at a garage when they changed the heads. They used the cork end pieces, the rear of which leaked. Now that I've got the top end open for a cam change, I plan on installing the printoseals, throwing away the end pieces, and laying down a bead of rtv on each end of the manifold.
#32
#33
A lot of engines (eg, the small block Ford) have intake manifold bolts that go straight down into holes in the heads, so you can install studs in the corner holes for alignment of the intake and gaskets. I don't know anything about the 390, but if its intake manifold bolts are splayed out, obviously you can't use studs.
#34
im about to drop the intake on my 89 351w and felpro specifys NO sealant on the gasket surface of intake gaskets.
i see allot of people using sealant, so im worried about getting leaks around them coolant passages if i follow felpro instructions
felpro states their gaskets use some magical sealing beads that rtv would degrade.
im deffinatly using rtv for the end gaskets though as ive had problems with cork or silicon versions before.
i see allot of people using sealant, so im worried about getting leaks around them coolant passages if i follow felpro instructions
felpro states their gaskets use some magical sealing beads that rtv would degrade.
im deffinatly using rtv for the end gaskets though as ive had problems with cork or silicon versions before.
#35
If the head surface around the coolant passages are in good condition, you shouldn't need sealants. Some heads have erosion around the water passages, and it's a good idea to use the grey RTV sealant around those to fill out the erosion area.
Otherwise, no sealant around the intake ports, or they will be squished out, and get into the ports. Definitely sealants in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the end seals. And as you're already planning, use a thick bead of RTV in place of cork end seals.
Otherwise, no sealant around the intake ports, or they will be squished out, and get into the ports. Definitely sealants in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the end seals. And as you're already planning, use a thick bead of RTV in place of cork end seals.
#36
If the head surface around the coolant passages are in good condition, you shouldn't need sealants. Some heads have erosion around the water passages, and it's a good idea to use the grey RTV sealant around those to fill out the erosion area.
Otherwise, no sealant around the intake ports, or they will be squished out, and get into the ports. Definitely sealants in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the end seals. And as you're already planning, use a thick bead of RTV in place of cork end seals.
Otherwise, no sealant around the intake ports, or they will be squished out, and get into the ports. Definitely sealants in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the end seals. And as you're already planning, use a thick bead of RTV in place of cork end seals.
i am feeling like a light smear around the ports would indeed be a good idea.
but ive stated how felpro feels about this due to some magical sealing beads they claim, i dont see any sealing beads on my gaskets they are just fibre one a piece of thin metal i do not see any raised areas.
#37
Those magical sealing beads will only work with smooth, clean port surfaces. I seem to recall Fel Pro including that information in their instructions.
You can use JB Weld on those pitted surfaces, but you have to let it harden and file it flat. I used the grey RTV on the eroded surfaces on one of my heads (from 1990, so similar age to yours), and it's held up quite well for over 10 years. Just make sure you clean off the rust first; I used phosphoric acid.
You can use JB Weld on those pitted surfaces, but you have to let it harden and file it flat. I used the grey RTV on the eroded surfaces on one of my heads (from 1990, so similar age to yours), and it's held up quite well for over 10 years. Just make sure you clean off the rust first; I used phosphoric acid.
#38
#39
#40
Can't resist getting in my $.02 worth. Silicone should only be used where it is not expected to stand up to pressure, such as from liquids or gasses. It is good for the end manifold gaskets but I have found a ton of it inside engines where it has been used too generously. So in that app I suggest putting it on both the manifold and the block surface and letting it set up a bit before dropping the manifold in place. It is also good on the valve covers, then lay the gasket on and weight it evenly and let it dry. It seals well and the cover can be removed an replaced many times without having to change the gasket again. (great for solid lifter engines where you have to adjust the valve lash.) On gaskets, just in general, paper or cork type, coat them with Vaseline. Because it is has a very low melting point, if it gets inside the engine, trans or differential is just melts and mixes with the surrounding oils. It also soaks into the gasket where is causes a slight swelling that makes the sealing ability of the gasket better. Not to mention that it holds the gasket in place while you are working with it and in the future, it is always easy to disassemble. And, it's dirt cheap.
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