I don't understand putting 4 studs at each corner and dropping it in. My ford 390 engine which I am about to change the intake manifold for the ? time because of the notorious leaking in the rear doesn't allow me to put straight studs since all the studs are in a V position. My engine comes out of a 1960 something Thunderbird. I have an Edelbrock manifold and would appreciate any advice. I liked the idea of dropping it in perfectly straight using studs at all corners to avoid it sliding all around but not sure how to do it for my situation. Thanks for the help.

 

I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW YOU CAN PUT 4 STUDS AT EACH END AND DROP THE INTAKE SINCE MY FORD 390 INTAKE'S STUDS ARE IN A V POSITION RATHER THAN VERTICAL WHICH WOULD BE IDEAL. ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS IN ADVANCE!

 

A lot of engines (eg, the small block Ford) have intake manifold bolts that go straight down into holes in the heads, so you can install studs in the corner holes for alignment of the intake and gaskets. I don't know anything about the 390, but if its intake manifold bolts are splayed out, obviously you can't use studs.

 

im about to drop the intake on my 89 351w and felpro specifys NO sealant on the gasket surface of intake gaskets.

i see allot of people using sealant, so im worried about getting leaks around them coolant passages if i follow felpro instructions

felpro states their gaskets use some magical sealing beads that rtv would degrade.

im deffinatly using rtv for the end gaskets though as ive had problems with cork or silicon versions before.

 

If the head surface around the coolant passages are in good condition, you shouldn't need sealants. Some heads have erosion around the water passages, and it's a good idea to use the grey RTV sealant around those to fill out the erosion area.

Otherwise, no sealant around the intake ports, or they will be squished out, and get into the ports. Definitely sealants in the corners where the intake gaskets meet the end seals. And as you're already planning, use a thick bead of RTV in place of cork end seals.

 

well as a 1989 engine, it does indeed have a small ammount of pitting i was considering using jbweld to fill and level the pitting but still getting conflicting info for rtv around the cooling ports, seems most builders are indeed using it, and felpro seems dead set against it.

i am feeling like a light smear around the ports would indeed be a good idea.

but ive stated how felpro feels about this due to some magical sealing beads they claim, i dont see any sealing beads on my gaskets they are just fibre one a piece of thin metal i do not see any raised areas.

 

Those magical sealing beads will only work with smooth, clean port surfaces. I seem to recall Fel Pro including that information in their instructions.

You can use JB Weld on those pitted surfaces, but you have to let it harden and file it flat. I used the grey RTV on the eroded surfaces on one of my heads (from 1990, so similar age to yours), and it's held up quite well for over 10 years. Just make sure you clean off the rust first; I used phosphoric acid.

 

ok well i ultra blacked it a thin layer around the water jackets both sides of gasket. we will see how long it holds up. maybe next time ill jb weld it instead. hehe! went over the tq sequence about a dozen times. after letting it sit a few minutes after getting to the final tq.

 

As far as around the ports, no silicone will work there not even the gray. Around gas or hydraulic oils the only stuff out there that I have found that works is Honda bond 4 or Yama bond 4. It is used to seal up 2 stroke cases and gas wont bother it. You can get it at a dealer or Ebay.

 

Can't resist getting in my $.02 worth. Silicone should only be used where it is not expected to stand up to pressure, such as from liquids or gasses. It is good for the end manifold gaskets but I have found a ton of it inside engines where it has been used too generously. So in that app I suggest putting it on both the manifold and the block surface and letting it set up a bit before dropping the manifold in place. It is also good on the valve covers, then lay the gasket on and weight it evenly and let it dry. It seals well and the cover can be removed an replaced many times without having to change the gasket again. (great for solid lifter engines where you have to adjust the valve lash.) On gaskets, just in general, paper or cork type, coat them with Vaseline. Because it is has a very low melting point, if it gets inside the engine, trans or differential is just melts and mixes with the surrounding oils. It also soaks into the gasket where is causes a slight swelling that makes the sealing ability of the gasket better. Not to mention that it holds the gasket in place while you are working with it and in the future, it is always easy to disassemble. And, it's dirt cheap.