I have an opportunity to pick up a 1961 F-100 stepside. It has a 3.7L Straight 6. I started it up today and it turned over fairly easy. Its a three on the tree and has some trouble shifting. The brakes are completely out. The engine is leaking oil and may need to be replaced. The body is in good shape with minimal rust. Basically, Im a 16 yr old who is looking for some guidence on this truck. I am on a small budget and limited garage. Thanks for any help. Matt

 

Brakes are fairly cheap and easy, unless you need all 4 drums replaced. If the motor runs fine, but just leaks, fine the source and replace the gaskets. Again, cheap and easy. Ask the owner if you can get a compression test done and see what it says. All the numbers should be within around 10% of each other. If they are not, then it probably does need some work.

 

Welcome Matt;
One of the draw backs on working on these old trucks is that you never know what you are going to find. Don't want to discourage you, but sounds like it could turn out to be a project truck. It is hard to tell time and cost until you thoroughly check the truck over. The brake system should be totally reconditioned. Would start by replacing master cylinder, and brake shoes. The wheel cylinders usually can be reconditioned with a honing tool. Would be concerned about the engine and tranny. The engine leaks may not require much labor and money but as 'comet' suggested probably can tell more with compression test. If the transmission is difficult to shift could be a simple linkage adjustment to an overhaul. Suggest check condition of electrical system. Lights, tail and head lights, turn signals, and do the instruments work. General condition of wire harness. These are time consuming issues if you are trying to get truck on the road. Also like to focus on notorious rust area's like floor panels, cab mount area, radiator support mounts, etc.
Like to purchase these vintage trucks running and then decide when and if want to spend a weekend or 2 on upgrades or repairs. May have to pay more at the front, but less labor intensive. This truck may only require weekend or 2 to get on road, but would give a good look over. Please take w/ a grain of salt, there will be number of more knowledgeable member with differing advise, that is what makes this forum so great.

good luck,
dave

 

It depends on your total budget.If your looking to pick it up and get it going cheaply to use as a dailey driver,I would pass on it.You did not say how much the truck was going to cost or what your budget is.Now if the truck is cheap and you're willing to take some time to fix it,you can end up with a solid truck.Like others have said here there are things that can be cheap to fix or they can go real bad and cost some money to fix.You need to think about how much the unexpected your willing to deal with.When I bought my 64 it cost me 500$ It had no brakes,engine leaked oil,trany leaked oil,dead battery,wiring was a mess and bad tires.Two years later and alot of work I can use it as a dailey driver.I have spent about 600$ on it so far,and to get where I want it will take another 5000$ and who knows how much time.This is my toy and not my primary transportation so,take it for what it worth.

Brian

 

Well I can get the Truck for about $400. The frame and body has very little rust. I have talked to a couple of people and they have said that I might be able to get a new short block in it. It currently has a 3.7L 223 cubic inch straight 6. I dont know if this is a possibility and how much it would cost. I am on about a $2000 budget and I am looking to make it into something to drive on the weekends and be able to show it off and be proud of my work.
Matt

 

I think with what you described as being wrong with it, your intitial cost for the truck and your total budget, it's very doable for a weekend driver. Now a lot depends on how much you can do as far as working on it and how much a problem the motor is. But if you are sold on dropping another motor in there, you can get expensive real quick. Keep in mind things like if you need a new tranny, or at a minimum bell housing (not sure what you are swapping), clutch, etc. Also, that could affect driveshaft length. You said "new" short block. Have you priced that out with all the parts needed to make it run? Do that, then see if you have anything left over for other things.
If it was me, and I wanted a weekend driver and had your budget, I'd go for it, and try to get the existing motor running. You said it just leaks, is there more you're not telling us? Then I'd either look for an engine as $ allowed. Then you could build the engine over time while running the one you got. But $400 is very fair for a rust free straight truck even if it didn't have any motor (assuming the rest of the mechanicals are good).

 

Not familiar with the unibody, and been some time since shopped for vintage truck but $400 sounds pretty cheap. Worse case is you install short block, i tend to prefer rebuild, overhaul tranny, and recondition the brakes, probably come close to the $2000 advantage is that you know what you have. On the otherhand, once brakes are reconditioned, may only need a gasket or two, clutch and you are on the road. Eternal optimist. Had a 300 ci in my 65, noted for being a workhorse, not familiar with the 223. If have to rebuild wonder if preferred engine for that vintage truck. Perhaps more knowledgeable member of the unibody can advise. If decide to purchase, would start by attempting to get it running for minimal cost and drive for period of time while you consider upgrades or original. If you have basic machanics skills should be able to do most of the work yourself. Would not attempt engine rebuild, or tranny overhaul if needed, leave to professionals. Suggest break engine down enough to determine whether to rebuild as oppose to exchange. Finally, try and stay focused on presenting issue, it is not difficult to get side trac'd and eventually get the truck on the road 2 or 3 years later. Keep us posted on your decision.

dave

 

Hi Matt,I think what you have in mind is sound idea.I would go for it.Fix the brakes first,If you can't stop it doesn't matter how fast you are going.Rebuild everything,replace the brake shoes and check for leaks in the lines.I rebuilt all my wheelcylinders only to find out I had a bad leak in a hard line.I have a 223 engine in my 64 they are simple engines to work on.The timeing cover seal is a very common oil leak point,other bad gaskets are fairly easy to spot and fix.The shifting problems can be many things but,most are old worn parts in the linkage.Mine nails instead of coter pins holding things together.These tranys are forty years old and sometimes they like to be doubled clutched,bond with grandpa and ask him about how you do it.Feel free to post any questions you have we will help you out.

Brian

 

Should you decide to purchase wonder if there are dual chamber master cylinders for that year. When upgraded to disc. brakes on 65 f100 purchased new dual chamber Master Cylinder for $44 at Napa store. Really like the safety feature of dual chamber. Seems would only need metering valve, bracket for valve, and some tubing which probably can take from later model truck. Perhaps other members more knowledgeable for that year can advise. Also suggest run a search in this forum, tranny forum, engine forum and review issues posted by other member for that year. Check out the FTE 'tech article' section and see if there is anything of interest. I bookmark articles of interest for future references. Heck have'nt even decided whether to purchase and i'am already giving advise.

good luck !

dave

 

First of all I want to thank everyone who helped me with this project of mine. YOU ALL HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP!!! I have talked with the owner and he has agreed to pay for the tow to my house. From there I will start with the brakes and work up from there. I am excited to start and enjoy some quality time under the hood. There arn't too many kids my age that like doing this kind of stuff but I have always been facinated with cars and trucks. I begin next weekend and and I will let you know from there!
Matt

 

Matt

Congrats on the purchase they are great trucks. One great thing about them is that mechanicaly and electricaly they are pretty simple. It is a great truck to learn on. Something I found amazing is that I can walk into NAPA and find just about all the parts I want on the shelf. The only part I had to order so far was the carb and that took one day to get here. I agree with everyone else start with the brakes and the engine. Run a wet and dry compression check on the engine. The I6 is a pretty strong engine. Once you have the leaks fixed you might want to look into getting a pertronix ignition. It allows you to have an electronic ignition instead of points while keeping the stock distribuitor. Dont get in a hurry it is better to take longer and do it right than take a shortcut and goof it up

 

Wow Matt, You must have made a good inpression on the previous owner for him to pay for the tow to your house.Take your time on it and when problems pop up we are all here to help you.Once you get the brakes fixed try driving it alittle bit and see where the oil leaks are and fix them.Common oil leaks are timing cover seal,pan gasket and valve cover all not hard to do.When you do the brakes check the king pins on the front end if there is play in them you need to replace them,if not just grease them up.Driving your truck will give you an idea what other things you will need to look at.I assume this your first vehicle so,have fun with it you will never forget your first truck.

Brian

 

If you have not done so, suggest going on line, or calling toll free # to a few of the Ford Auto suppliers and order their catalog. Some may charge $2 or $3 but majority will mail them to you for nothing. i like to acquire few catalogs for referrence purposes, not necessarily for purchasing. Usually find items listed according to vintage to include diagram and or description. Some sort of indication which parts are interchangeable with your year truck. Few have section on VIN classification. Dennis Carpenter's new catalog donates section on door and vent window weatherstrip installation. Although try and use FTE sponsors, not alway possible. Few catalog i have found helpful are www.dennis-carpenter.com , www.classicautoparts.com, www.macsautoparts.com . Am sure other members will be providing list of their preferred catalog. Again, tend to look at them as source of information. Try local parts suppliers first, tend to prefer NAPA products. Not sure but appears Dennis Carpenter defaults to Mac's auto parts. May need to go to web search engine and type 'dennis carpenter'.

dave