Diagnostic Test Problems
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Diagnostic Test Problems
I have an '84 F-150 4wd with a 351W-2V and EEC IV. I tried to run the self-diagnostic test per the Haynes manual and http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html, but it will not work. I only get a steady 12V. Is there a different set-up for the '84?
My other problem is that the smog pump diverter and bypass solenoids for are not receiving any control signals.
Any help would be greatly appreciated; thanks in advance for your help.
-Jim
My other problem is that the smog pump diverter and bypass solenoids for are not receiving any control signals.
Any help would be greatly appreciated; thanks in advance for your help.
-Jim
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 359
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From: Northern Virginia
Diagnostic Test Problems
Well, 84 is too advanced for me, mine is an 81 -- and works by vacuum connections, not electronics. But some principles may apply.
Some signals to these components do not get thru until a certain temperature is reached (e.g., the vacuum to my EGR goes thru a thermal vacuum switch that opens only when appropriate temp is reached). Yours may be a TVS or some electronic version of it (like coolant temp sensor).
In addition to a temp. parameter, a lot of emission stuff gets input from engine operations (RPM, throttle position, etc). For example (again, refering to my truck only) at WOT the vacuum to my EGR valve is dumped to atmosphere -- so at WOT my EGR is not operational. It is also not operational at idle (regardless of temp) because there is not enough exhaust backpressure, or something -- I need to get to about 1300 RPM to test it. I think most of this emissions stuff have similar information "filters".
Suggest you check the test proceures to be sure you are not supposed to disconnect something, or some other requirement.
If nothing else, I have given enough bad information to prompt the guys that know the real answer to respond. Good Luck
Some signals to these components do not get thru until a certain temperature is reached (e.g., the vacuum to my EGR goes thru a thermal vacuum switch that opens only when appropriate temp is reached). Yours may be a TVS or some electronic version of it (like coolant temp sensor).
In addition to a temp. parameter, a lot of emission stuff gets input from engine operations (RPM, throttle position, etc). For example (again, refering to my truck only) at WOT the vacuum to my EGR valve is dumped to atmosphere -- so at WOT my EGR is not operational. It is also not operational at idle (regardless of temp) because there is not enough exhaust backpressure, or something -- I need to get to about 1300 RPM to test it. I think most of this emissions stuff have similar information "filters".
Suggest you check the test proceures to be sure you are not supposed to disconnect something, or some other requirement.
If nothing else, I have given enough bad information to prompt the guys that know the real answer to respond. Good Luck
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