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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Possible fuel delivery problem

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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 07:57 PM
  #16  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
ok, I went outside pulled off the vacuum line(and accidently snapped it) and it smells like gas. There might have been gas in it but i havn't started it in a week. i'll have to make a trip to autozone a pick up a lil piece of hose.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 10:05 PM
  #17  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regulators been replaced. Thought i had fixed it, drove it about 40 miles today then it started doing the same thing. Not nearly as bad but it was still happening. Any other ideas? I'm going to check the connections on the O2 sensor tommarow.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 04:17 AM
  #18  
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Does it fire back up immediately?Did you try starting fluid as soon as it quits?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 07:03 AM
  #19  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
it did it while i was going down a crowded road in rush hour traffic. I just kept rolling, put it in neutral and started it back up.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 10:49 AM
  #20  
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bourbon
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From: Champlin USA
maybe this will help,

from my ford code scanner book
code 87 - Fuel Pump (FP) relay - circuit failure

from my Haynes Computer Codes book
code 87 - Fuel pump circuit failure

you said the relay was brand new......was this replaced before or after the problem started? are you sure that was the fuel pump relay?
 

Last edited by bourbon; Mar 10, 2005 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 07:17 PM
  #21  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yea i replaced it after it started. I'm sure it was because i disconnected it while it was running. And i think i made it throw the code. I filled it with gas today and gave me no problems at all. Maybe i got some bad gas at the same time the regulator started going out.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:23 PM
  #22  
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From: Houston area
I have a '93 F150 5.0 that does the same damn thing and it has been for a 1 1/2 yrs. Didi in Nov '03 left withe the shop for 3 weeks & never did it. Then it ran fine until July '04 and did it again. Once again it didn't do it at the shop! Ran fine until Nov '04 and I just struggled through it this time. Now to current date. The truck starts to spudder and wanna die a few blocks from house and it's startting to die completely and will not restart. Then an 30 min to an hour later it will start & run fine. Ran the codes, nothing showing 111 on KOEO & KOER. Changed the O2 sensor & the EGR valve (failed smog and these were possible culprits). The cat IS bad, but haven't had a chance to replace it. However it did it before the current cat was replaced and when it was brand new. Changed the a fuel filter a few times, nothing different. It does have a popping coming out the exahust that sounds like a small back fire when it acts up. Checked and set the timing to 10 BTDC and it still does it, only though when it coughing and wheezing. when its running fine she purrs. kinda reminds me of Chitty Bang Bang!

Tommorw will attach a fuel pressure gauge to the injector rail and tape it to the winshield and watch for fluctuation in the fuel pressure when the action starts.

Any other input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Wes
 
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #23  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
try what was said above, pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if it smells like gas. Other then that i did all the same stuff you did.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #24  
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where do you attach a fuel pressure gauge anyway.......is it at that shrader valve at the front of the fuel rail?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 04:45 AM
  #25  
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Yes - gauge goes on the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #26  
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Fefarms, That would be good information to know on how to force the fuel pump on. Does the key have to be on to ground that blue with the oarnge tracer on. I tried it with my 93 with the key off and nothing.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #27  
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The hot side of the fuel pump relay coil is powered from "VPWR". This, in turn, is powered from the contacts of the PCM relay. These contacts get their power directly from the battery.

You must turn the key on to energize the PCM relay coil. This will close the contacts and provide power to the PCM and to the fuel pump relay coil. When you then ground the other side of the fuel pump relay coil (the "FP" wire), the fuel pump relay contacts will close and send power to the inertia switch and thence the tank select switch and thence the fuel pump.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 03:56 PM
  #28  
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From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
well it started doing it again. It went 200 miles then it started. I just put in a new ignition module. A friend suggested it since it had never been changed. I started noticing that it only does it at operating temperature. It will run fine up to that point. Another guy suggested that i cut off my cat see if it fixes it, might be clogged. I got down there while it was running and barely any exaust was coming out at all. I will do that later, if that don't fix it i will weld it back on.

Fefarms, just curious how did you get all this knowledge?
 
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