im looking to buy a 57 ford f100 i need to know if the generator is 12 volt or 6, because in order to drive it i need a battery

 

12 volts -4speed

 

By the way - there are no stupid questions. Only stupid answers.

 

Always remember what George said......Otherwise you'll never ask questions to your problems. And that would be stupid!

Barry

 

agreed the only stupid question is the one that isn't asked! Ford went to 12V neg ground in 1956.

 

As I have said before, stupid questions are actually more valuable than intelligent ones because more people can answer them. Now, if you want to really make points, Fatfenders points out that asking stupid questions that require an opinion also lets the answerer be right about the answer.

Fun for all!!!

Oh yeah...it is 12 volt....(in my opinion)

 

Does the stock 12 volt system in a '56 have a small fuse box and some in line fuses under the dash?

Stupid question??? :-)

Doug

 

No stupid questions are allowed because there aren't any.

The only stock fuses/circuit breakers I could find are in the headlight switch.

 

The stock wiring diagram does not show any fuses.

 

Thanks George and AXracer ...
is the wiring diagram that is in the 56 Ford Truck Shop Manual what you guys are using for reference...or is there another source?

My new-old 56 has inop tail lights, brake lights, license plate, and turn signals. I do have headlights and running lights. Overall, the wiring looks good but there was a short off of the ignition accessory terminal that I've attempted a repair. I've installed a new brake light switch at the master cylinder and a new light switch with no effect.

Wiring is not my thing but I'm encouraged when reading a couple of the threads on installing new looms from some of the current suppliers. This doesn't look bad enough to merit a complete R&R. Any ideas would be appreciated...Thanks, Doug

 

http://www.classictruckshop.com/images/f-100wd.jpg This is the diagram I was looking at.
The stock wiring is about as simple as it gets and is easily traceable with a simple continuity tester. Start at the battery and keep tracing and testing each connection back to the tailights until you no longer have power. Whatever is between the last place that had power and here is where your problem is. People tend to fear wiring, it's not difficult, think of the electricity as water running thru a hose. The battery is the water main or supply, the wires are the hose and the switches are valves. If water isn't coming out the end of the hose you have a leak (broken or shorted wire) or stuck valve (bad switch, fuse or relay: all are types of electricity "valves") The ground circuit (the metal of the vehicle rather than a wire) is the "return pipe" that sends the water back to the source (battery) so it can be "recirculated" (using the water analogy) so having a continuous pipe back is also important. You may find you have a "bad" ground which means there is not a continuous metal to metal connection all the way back to the battery. You can check this possibility by touching the probe of the continuity tester to the center terminal of the taillight bulb socket while the light are on (be careful NOT to touch the outer housing of the socket at the same time!) and touching the wire lead of the tester to a clean unpainted metal place (bolt or screw) on the vehicle and see if the tester bulb lights. If it does connecting a permanent ground wire from the outside housing to the chassis should fix your problem.

 

I was looking at the shop manual wiring diagram. The one Chuck referred to is a little easier to read, and it's almost identical except it shows a 6V battery. Follow Chuck's instructions and take your time. You'll get it!

 

When I compared that wiring diagram to the one in my 54/55 shop manual there are differences in wire colors in a few cases. Also some text descriptions are missing. I tried editing a copy of the file and posted it on my webpage
http://www.clubfte.com/users/rogerf100/four.html
It is at the bottom of the page.
The edits are easy to pic out as the font is different.

 

What ever of the rat's nest of wires under my dash (see gallery) that was oem went into the trash with all the rest of the mess. If you have had a few less than stellar "electricians" that worked on your truck like I did, the best (and safest) thing to do is clear it all out and start fresh. I was amazed that anything worked.

 

RogerF100, love! that seat, I'm old school and that white Diamond tuck is where it's at.

Now more on thread, What Yr. wireing diagram is that you edited and posted?

Thx. David