Bouncy when braking
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Bouncy when braking
Hello- Just bought a 93 F150, 2wd, auto, long bed, standard cab. I've got 2 questions. First, when I brake the truck gets real bouncy. Its hard to explain, it's kind of like a jerking, bouncing effect. Feels kind of like the brakes are pulsing, but the steering wheel doesn't vibrate. Is this normal? This is the first vehicle I've ever had with ABS, so for all I know this is normal ABS function.
Second, I changed my front pads this weekend. The previous owner had let them go until there was no pad left, and now the inside of my rotors have nece grooves in them, about 1/8 inch deep. So I need new rotors. Has anyone here had experience with cross drilled and slotted rotors? If I get new rotors or rotors from a junkyard, must they be balanced on my truck?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Second, I changed my front pads this weekend. The previous owner had let them go until there was no pad left, and now the inside of my rotors have nece grooves in them, about 1/8 inch deep. So I need new rotors. Has anyone here had experience with cross drilled and slotted rotors? If I get new rotors or rotors from a junkyard, must they be balanced on my truck?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New Jersey
No, the brakes should not pulse in the 93, as there is only RABS and you shouldn't be able to feel them at all, because most of the braking is done with the front wheels. Rotors might be be cracked, out of round, caliper migh tbe not sliding, etc. Might be the front shocks are warn, but I have a feeling that's not the case based on your description.
Rotors get turned down, meaning the surface is machined flat using a brake machine which has a point that scores on a new surface, while making them slightly thinner. If the junkyard rotors are in good shape (meaning the donor vehicle recently arrived), by all means, feel free to use them. But if they are rusty, you'll have to turn them down.
I do the junkyard rotor/drum thing for my F350... I can bare to pay retail for such ridiculously heavy/expensive parts. Pads I always get new however.
Rotors get turned down, meaning the surface is machined flat using a brake machine which has a point that scores on a new surface, while making them slightly thinner. If the junkyard rotors are in good shape (meaning the donor vehicle recently arrived), by all means, feel free to use them. But if they are rusty, you'll have to turn them down.
I do the junkyard rotor/drum thing for my F350... I can bare to pay retail for such ridiculously heavy/expensive parts. Pads I always get new however.
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Thanks for the quick reply. I think it might be the rotors, because as I mentioned the fronts are pretty chewed up from the old brake pads. Another question. I bought pretty good quality pads, do you think I can use them with the new/junkyard rotors after using them on the old grooved ones for about 400 miles?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Wetaskiwin, Alberta
After 400 miles of fresh pads on grooved rotors I would tend to think that your pads will be pretty chewed up. It is important that the pads wear in to new rotors and if your new pads are already chewed up chances are that they will not break in to the new/turned rotors. I would pull the pads off and check them for damage. If they have already grooved to fit the pattern of the old rotors I would consider buying new pads to go with the new rotors. My opinion only, it's your wallet. Maybe check with someone with lots of brake replacement experience and see what they have to say. I just don't think that chewed up pads will work well with freshly turned or new rotors.
Mike
Mike
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
Old pads/New rotors
For your own safety, new pads without question. If it feels like a rapid pulse in the brake pedal, there are hard spots/drag points in your rotors that are affecting the pulsing feeling. If you put metallic pads on the front and they are grooved irregularly they are going to affect your new rotors adversely. Rear brake drums could possibly be warped, I'd check them for no other reason than someone let the pads eat the rotors and make sure everything is well. When you do your rear drums buy a wheel cylinder hone and two kits. It is definately worth the time and effort when doing the rears. I'd rather have good brakes than 20 extra horsepower.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2003
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Originally Posted by tex94F250
I'd check them for no other reason than someone let the pads eat the rotors and make sure everything is well
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Rotors do not have to be balanced. Cross drilled/slotted aftermarket rotors are expensive overkill for an older truck. If you used the new pads on the worn rotors for more than about 100 miles the pads are shot. The "economy" Made-in-China replacement rotors from the local discount chain parts emporium are very likely to warp in use. I'd stick with OEM, new or junkyard, with proven metalurgy.
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Another thing to check would be U-joints. Sounds funny, but that was what happened to me, I replaceded everything on front brakes, had an alignment done, shocks are new and still it would do what you described. I was under there getting ready to do my fuel filter and used my driveline to help pull me under the truck and I noticed some play, changed the u joints and fixed it all. Just a thought to look into if the rotors don't work.
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Thanks for the info
I'm going to get new dana rotors for the front and new pads and see how that works. The reason I asked about the pads was because I bought a good set of ceramic pads. I'll let you guys know if it works or not.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
Ceramics have a warranty... so if you are devious or of low morals, takeoff one side and smash one with hammer then take the one side back and they should replace the whole set. tell them you had to walk 10 miles uphill (both ways) to get there and really don't want to walk back top get the other side off...
{very evil grin}
{very evil grin}
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From: Waukesha, WI
Originally Posted by alexschmidt99
<SNIP>
, when I brake the truck gets real bouncy. Its hard to explain, it's kind of like a jerking, bouncing effect. Feels kind of like the brakes are pulsing, but the steering wheel doesn't vibrate.
, when I brake the truck gets real bouncy. Its hard to explain, it's kind of like a jerking, bouncing effect. Feels kind of like the brakes are pulsing, but the steering wheel doesn't vibrate.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Pulsing
Feeling the pulses through the steering wheel depends on how fast you are going. If you are approaching a stop sign the truck might pulse in a rocking sort of way, if you are going 60mph and hammer the brakes you may feel harsh vibration.
Don't forget that you probably want to put new bearings in when you change rotors(at least you should). So you have to decide if you want to put all the effort of putting new bearings into old rotors.
Don't forget that you probably want to put new bearings in when you change rotors(at least you should). So you have to decide if you want to put all the effort of putting new bearings into old rotors.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Concord, New Hampshire
CERAMIC?? I wouldent personaly use them, i would go with a quality set of rabestos, semi-metalics, my boss has ceramic pads on his f-350, and they are dystroying the new rotors, and the squeak alot while braking, Im not imporessed, but if you like them, go for it,
And its defidently your rotors, it dosent take much to get the pedal to pulse, and the front of the truck to "HOP" i turned mine about a month ago, and there was only .003" of run-out in them and it would pulsate and hop. toseed an on car lathe on, and in about a half hour was all said and done, stops bueatiful.
And its defidently your rotors, it dosent take much to get the pedal to pulse, and the front of the truck to "HOP" i turned mine about a month ago, and there was only .003" of run-out in them and it would pulsate and hop. toseed an on car lathe on, and in about a half hour was all said and done, stops bueatiful.