Rear Disc Question
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Elk Horn,KY.
Rear Disc Question
I have a 75"F-100 with drums all around. I just bought a 79' that I'm going to part out with the front disc set-up. I have also found a 76' Lincoln rearend with the disc. What I need to know is other than the components that I have what else do I need to do a 4 wheel disc set-up? I know that I'm going to have to change the master cylinder(I think) BTW the 75' is a power brake system if that matters. I'm going to put new calibers all around and such. So I guess what I need to know is what I need and what do the parts need to be ordered for. I'm sure there is a Tech article for this, if there is please put me in the right direction.
All help is appreciated
All help is appreciated
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 50
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From: Elk Horn,KY.
Thanks Mark, I thought that I would need the proportioning valve as well. The thing is, the car is gone now and I know that these are hard to come by. I actually was thing that I may go with an adjustable one.(aftermarket) Has anyone tried this and with what results?
Thanks again to all!
Thanks again to all!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
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From: Coutts Canada
Lincoln setup is pretty well bolt on to your 9" rear, i know this because i am in the process of doing this very same thing.
First off in order for this to be an easy swap, you need to have the 5.5 on 5 wheel bolt pattern. Then you need a lincoln/versallie master cyclinder, the p-valve, or an adjustable one (i'm doing both, the adjustable ones cost about 40 bucks, through summit, i bought the wilwood one), then a caliper rebuild kit, new rotors off a 81-96 4x4 (they are a 2 piece and these rotors fits nearly perfect).
First take the caliper bracket apart and space it out an additional 1/8" to clear the larger center of the truck rotors:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58620&width=0, then ressamble. next step is to get the axle flange turned down so it fits inside the rotor center (again about a 1/4-1/8" total), next with the axles out remove the bearings and backingplate and place the caliper mounting bracket between the backing plate and axle flange, reinstall the backing plate, new bearings, new axles, and reinstall the axles, now install the new mc and p-valve, rebuuild the calipers (they are expensive to replace), install new pads, tighten everything down and you are good to go.
First off in order for this to be an easy swap, you need to have the 5.5 on 5 wheel bolt pattern. Then you need a lincoln/versallie master cyclinder, the p-valve, or an adjustable one (i'm doing both, the adjustable ones cost about 40 bucks, through summit, i bought the wilwood one), then a caliper rebuild kit, new rotors off a 81-96 4x4 (they are a 2 piece and these rotors fits nearly perfect).
First take the caliper bracket apart and space it out an additional 1/8" to clear the larger center of the truck rotors:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58620&width=0, then ressamble. next step is to get the axle flange turned down so it fits inside the rotor center (again about a 1/4-1/8" total), next with the axles out remove the bearings and backingplate and place the caliper mounting bracket between the backing plate and axle flange, reinstall the backing plate, new bearings, new axles, and reinstall the axles, now install the new mc and p-valve, rebuuild the calipers (they are expensive to replace), install new pads, tighten everything down and you are good to go.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Great NW
Before you go do'in all of that stuff, make sure you check this out:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_Broncos.html
The late '70's Broncos are nearly the same as our trucks, so ignore that difference in the article.
After looking closely at a Lincoln Versailles rear-end swap, I determined that, although possible, the negatives outweighed the positives, just to have rear discs on a 9" (change the gearing, bolt pattern, weld spring perches, not to mention the exorbitant costs of caliper rebuild kits on these rare calipers). The swap might be cooler on an older truck (50's), but it seems to me that there are better choices for our more "modern" trucks.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_Broncos.html
The late '70's Broncos are nearly the same as our trucks, so ignore that difference in the article.
After looking closely at a Lincoln Versailles rear-end swap, I determined that, although possible, the negatives outweighed the positives, just to have rear discs on a 9" (change the gearing, bolt pattern, weld spring perches, not to mention the exorbitant costs of caliper rebuild kits on these rare calipers). The swap might be cooler on an older truck (50's), but it seems to me that there are better choices for our more "modern" trucks.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
Thats a good article, but if you have your heart set on doing rear discs, i would go with the way i've said as its cheaper, and you can get all the parts at your local napa.
Caliper rebuild kits for these calipers are cheap as the caliperis identical, with the exception of the e-brake assembly, to the front calipers from the early-mid eighties truck: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58625&width=0. I put an old caliper off the front of my flareside onto the licoln caliper braket no problems and it fit perfect, just like it should. Personally i wouldn't swap the entire rear from the car to the truck, as the truck rearend (assuming its a 9")is usually stronger (31 splines, some lincolns had the odd ball 9.5" ring gear too), and its easy to swap the disc brakes to the truck rear end, unless you were going totally custom with air bags or something.
The most time consuming/hardest part of this whol deal is getting new rear brakes lines run and the e-brake cable run, but either of those isn't all that difficult.
Caliper rebuild kits for these calipers are cheap as the caliperis identical, with the exception of the e-brake assembly, to the front calipers from the early-mid eighties truck: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58625&width=0. I put an old caliper off the front of my flareside onto the licoln caliper braket no problems and it fit perfect, just like it should. Personally i wouldn't swap the entire rear from the car to the truck, as the truck rearend (assuming its a 9")is usually stronger (31 splines, some lincolns had the odd ball 9.5" ring gear too), and its easy to swap the disc brakes to the truck rear end, unless you were going totally custom with air bags or something.
The most time consuming/hardest part of this whol deal is getting new rear brakes lines run and the e-brake cable run, but either of those isn't all that difficult.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
The front calipers off a an 80'-86 (not sure when they changed to the newer style), are the same, with the exception that they don't have the mechanical e-brake linkage that the lincoln rear caliper's do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
I will be installing my disc brakes this weekend so I'll post back about this but I wanted to mention that I talked with Randy from Blackbird's Custom Trucks today about this. For those that don't know he's one of the best known sources for rear disc brake kits. He said that 90% of the trucks that he does a rear disc conversion on do NOT need any changes made to the p-valve or MC. So I'm going to see if I can get the discs on and get the axle together and test it all out. I'll post back next week and let you guys know what I come up with.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
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Keep us posted Ivan. I'm going to do it to my truck too some day & I have bought some parts. As it was explained to me: The prop valve will not provide the corect balance & adding a adjustable in the rear line won't help because there isn't enough force to start with. The booster will be too small. There isn't enough fluid capacity,volume or stroke in the master to work right. Will it work without these components ? yes, but it won't work well I'm told. Brakes will seem week & spongy. I was told to get all the stuff from a 3/4 or larger truck.
Last edited by mark a.; Mar 3, 2005 at 11:32 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
I'm going to be replacing my booster and MC anyway, but he said it's not necessary. I'm going to a hydraboost from a Superduty so I don't have to worry about lack of vacuum when the new engine is built. Plus I need a smaller MC so the new valve covers will clear. I could go to an F350 booster but I think hydro will be the way to go.
Mark, Blackbird's is the same company that Pirate did a write up on in their tech articles for disc brakes. He said they did a conversion just the other day on a Chevy, no changes to anything, just put the discs on and bled the system. He said they tested it in the street and when the guy hit the brakes it looked like he had a giant vacuum under his truck. It stopped so fast it sucked down toward the ground. I'm looking forward to that kind of stopping power.
Mark, Blackbird's is the same company that Pirate did a write up on in their tech articles for disc brakes. He said they did a conversion just the other day on a Chevy, no changes to anything, just put the discs on and bled the system. He said they tested it in the street and when the guy hit the brakes it looked like he had a giant vacuum under his truck. It stopped so fast it sucked down toward the ground. I'm looking forward to that kind of stopping power.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
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Ivan, Me too.... & I don't wan'a buy anything I don't have to. Anyways if something didn't work it wouldn't be any big deal to change things around till it's gotten right. The only thing I wonder about is how much fabrication would be involved to mount a later model booster & m.c. in the '79 cab or the hydro set up to the cab & getting hooked to the petal ? & whats this about new motor ? 