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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:59 AM
  #16  
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Once again, thanks for all your help everyone...

For the record, my maintenance guide book suggests every 5,000 miles. Changed oil at my dealer in December.....sticker says 3,000 miles. That's why I was concerned..can't figure that one out...maybe the dealer just wants oil changes more often for extra $$$????????

-Mrshark
 
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 12:35 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mrshark
Once again, thanks for all your help everyone...

For the record, my maintenance guide book suggests every 5,000 miles. Changed oil at my dealer in December.....sticker says 3,000 miles. That's why I was concerned..can't figure that one out...maybe the dealer just wants oil changes more often for extra $$$????????

-Mrshark
I agree,I build golf courses all over the US and have done buisness with a lot of dealers and most of them will say 3000 even if the book says 5000.

It is simply about money.

And to jiffyjam do your homework before you jump up and say someone is wrong
 
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 12:51 PM
  #18  
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[QUOTE=shaper]I agree,I build golf courses all over the US and have done buisness with a lot of dealers and most of them will say 3000 even if the book says 5000.

It is simply about money.

And to jiffyjam do your homework before you jump up and say someone is wrong
/QUOTE]
Tell it to your kids, I said that another dealer might be different. Mine said as far as they know the majority of Ford dealers stay in line with Ford Moter Corp guidelines. And also like I said, I go 3000, not 5000.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 07:44 PM
  #19  
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The best method is to follow manufacturer's recommendations which is in your Owner's manual. As long as you have documentation that follows the owner's manual stated change interval, that will not be a factor in any warranty claims. Yes, I truely believe the 3000 mile oil change is a money making scheme. The best method to determine your oil change interval "outside of warranty" and with other oils is to do a oil analysis at various mileage intervals. I checked mine with Mobil1 and had less wear at 10,000 miles then I did with standard oil at 5000 miles. However your mileage may vary. BTY, I am an amsoil guy now. lol
 
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #20  
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http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

Pretty good article from someone who's not trying to sell you anything..

He covers allot, but pay attention to what he says about blends. They only need 3-4% synthetic to call it a blend.. He also make allot sense about using synthetics and when to start..

My dealer included 12 oil changes in the 3yr/36 month lease if that says anything..
 
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Old Feb 19, 2005 | 10:44 PM
  #21  
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That would be an excellent sticky. Tons of valuable information. BTY, I'm still sticken to my Amsoil!! lol. Although I am still a Mobil1 fan at heart.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 07:13 AM
  #22  
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I had a guy try to get me to use amsoil recently, is it good stuff?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 10:06 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jiffyjam
I had a guy try to get me to use amsoil recently, is it good stuff?
It would not be fair if I told you it was, since it would only be my opinion. If you read that article in this post, a man with credibility rates amsoil as subpar to Mobil1. However, I have tested Mobil1 at 10,000 miles with very very little wear which follows what I found in independant tests. As for Amsoil, I have read independant results that show very very little wear at 25,000 miles in a gas engine. Now, I also use it for my snowmobile - 2stoke. There has been proof that it is superior for snowmobiles.

What I am saying is, you won't go wrong with either. I stick by my amsoil, made in the USA. I drive a lot and it helps me from having to change my oil every three weeks.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 10:57 AM
  #24  
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Question

How can I gauge wear like you do ? Thanks !
 

Last edited by Ruckus; Feb 20, 2005 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 01:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Ruckus
How can I gauge wear like you do ? Thanks !
That would be from oil analysis test. Here is the place I have used:

http://www.oaitesting.com/page1.htm
 
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Old Feb 20, 2005 | 01:38 PM
  #26  
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Smile

Thanks for the info. I am going to rely on what you said earlier . Thanks Again !
 

Last edited by Ruckus; Feb 20, 2005 at 01:39 PM. Reason: edit
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #27  
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My opinion of AMSOIL is they are nothing but a huge marketing machine with tons of internet marketing. Heck they can't even certify their outboard two cycle oil to TCW3 specs, all they do is say it exceeds the specs. In my mind practice what you preach and do what the other marine oil manufacturers do and get it certified. This shows backing of the products capabilities. Hence my comment on a hugh marketing machine. If notice a lot of the hype such as this is "greatest oil" is done by AMSOIL resellers and distributors.
Today's oils are way ahead of oil in past years. The additive packages are so advance that if you follow the manufacturers change intervals the difference woud be negligable. Oil analysis can't tell you a wear factor unless you stated from day one. It can tell you what is in the oil and can tell you if a high concentrate of metal is noticed. But to blatently say oil analysis to see the difference in wear is nonsense. The only way to determine is to run two identical engines side by side one with dino oil and the other with synthetic oil. From day one continually do an oil analysis.
If you stick to the recommend oil change as offered by the engine manufacturer the differnce will be negligable.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jiffyjam
Wrong, dealer stands by 5000. Look at the sticker when they change your oil. It will call for the next change in 5000 miles. I admit your dealer may be different but I don't see why they should be. Its because of the Syn blend they use, it does not break down as quickly.
nope. My dealer stands by 3000 miles.
Ford goes by 5000.
think about it this way. The dealer will recommend 3000 b/c he/she wants you to come back to them to get it changed. Which means they get more money at quicker intervals.
Everyone has a motive.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 01:14 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by KevinM
My opinion of AMSOIL is they are nothing but a huge marketing machine with tons of internet marketing. Heck they can't even certify their outboard two cycle oil to TCW3 specs, all they do is say it exceeds the specs. In my mind practice what you preach and do what the other marine oil manufacturers do and get it certified. This shows backing of the products capabilities. Hence my comment on a hugh marketing machine. If notice a lot of the hype such as this is "greatest oil" is done by AMSOIL resellers and distributors.
Today's oils are way ahead of oil in past years. The additive packages are so advance that if you follow the manufacturers change intervals the difference woud be negligable. Oil analysis can't tell you a wear factor unless you stated from day one. It can tell you what is in the oil and can tell you if a high concentrate of metal is noticed. But to blatently say oil analysis to see the difference in wear is nonsense. The only way to determine is to run two identical engines side by side one with dino oil and the other with synthetic oil. From day one continually do an oil analysis.
If you stick to the recommend oil change as offered by the engine manufacturer the differnce will be negligable.
Well Kevin, I agree with here, but not on the leasing. You are right about Amsoil 2 stroke oils. You read their web site and unless you are reading closely you leave thinking that their oil is NMMA TC-W3 certified.. As Marine Surveyor I see and have people ask me all the time about burning synthetics in their engines. Warranty requires TC-W3 certified oil, Amsoil is not. It's good oil, but without the cert it's an easy excuse for a dealer/manuf not to honor the warranty. I tell them after you are out of warranty go ahead and burn it if you can afford it..

I play with old outboards and I'm member of the Antique Outboard Club. Lots of those guy's burn Amsoil. Most pre 1950 Evinrude/Johnsons run on 16 to 1 oil mix. They run Amsoil at 32 to 1 and have no problems. Less smoke, less mess, less fumes to breathe... I tried it in my 4 cylinder 1949 Evinrude 50hp Big Four and almost seized the engine. It didn't hurt anything because I heard her coming down and got out of the throttle before she completely seized and broke rings or worse. I went back to OMC oil at 16 to 1 and she runs fine now.. I've got 15-18 other smaller engines and they all love the Amsoil, but the big engine doesn't..

Amsoil has this wild idea about 25000 mile oil changes in vehicles with 12,500 mile filter changes... Yeah right....not in my engines... Changing the oil is the single best way to get the dirt wearing grit out of an engine.. I want it flowing out of my engine every 2500-3000 miles.. I'll garantee you are better off using the .87 cents no name brand at the auto part store, changing it every 3000 than running Amsoil's gold for 25k...

Buying Amsoil is another treat. You have to join the Amsoil cult and become a dealer to get the better price, plus shipping.. I buy 6-8qts of the 2 stroke oil at the Outboard Club swap meets from club member each year and thats enough for me to run the old outboards for a year.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 01:52 AM
  #30  
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As for the original thread, it sounds like you take very good care of your truck. Going over by 1000 miles shouldn't matter at all. You'll get back to your regular schedule after that. Don't worry.
 
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