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should be a spring loaded (internally) steel ring on top,pull up the ring and let the water out the bottom drain. Make sure the ring seats well. may have to lift and let go of it several times. Many owners are doing away with that type of separator and replacing it with the newer style filter and base. There are several posts about that separator.
thanks for the reply--just didnt know what to expect--pulled the pin very little came out--- made sure the pin reset and wow---what a difference-I have been fighting an air leak and a poor running engine for 2 months--truck had not been right since the lift pump was replaced by a dealer-since then have replaced injecters and injecter pump but the engine still was hard to start, smoked really bad and surged--guess the dealer who replaced the lift pump had drained the water separater and had not made sure the pin reseated properly--runs better than ever now--was about to give up and buy a newer truck---looks like I'm gonna be driving the old '85 for a while yet
elliot, dont want to jinx your OEM seperator, but you may want to bypass it and save yourself some down-the-road hassles. as it was stated the firewall seperator is a piece of @%6$ and will only cause you problems.....
definately disconnect that POS on the firewall. Then send it in to the Smithsonian because you are probably the owner of the longest lasting stock water separator. Amazing that it still 'works'. I bypassed mine and bought a Stanadyne water separator and still use the stock secondary (fuel) filter too. I have been very pleased with the Stanadyne unit (think it is a much better alternative to just bypassing stock POS and using Racor 'all in one' filter). another thing you may want to look into is blocking off the stock lift pump and installing an electric unit. makes bleeding the system a breeze.