Running rich??? help
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 775
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From: Temperance,MI
Yes the EGR is hooked up, its a year old right from ford guy had replaced it right before I had bought it. The lines that go to the thermactor, egr, and air canister have all been redone I know that question was coming they were brittle and I just replaced them before they gave me any problems.
Thanks
Curtis
Thanks
Curtis
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 775
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From: Temperance,MI
Well it wont be long loosing oil pressure due to so much gas in the oil solid black with 400miles on this oil change and loosing compression I suspect. If your truck is having a code 42 always rich code get it taken care of don't be like me drivin it until it dies.
Curtis
Curtis
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 236
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From: Terrace B.C. Canada
With your long tube headers is the o2 sensor reading both cylinder banks or just one? Don't know if it makes a difference but you may want to look into it. Also how old is your o2 sensor and could it have been damaged durring the exhaust work?
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Temperance,MI
o2 is only reading one bank of cylinders, o2 is 4 weeks old. Vac. leaks is out when I changed my thermactor egr and can lines the rest were all check and replaced as needed idles smooth just acceleration and steady it feels like it drops down to 4cylinders no power then all the sudden it comes back or if I put it to the floor it will straighten it out, either way though its power is down from when the exhaust was put on shift points were from 42 to 5th gear down to 38mph with no problem pulling it to 55, now its 45-48mph to 5th and still a struggle.
Thanks
Curtis
Thanks
Curtis
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 158
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From: Champlin USA
well you can bet that your headers are prob the problem. if anyone on this board could benefit from an IAC spacer you prob could. if you have excess fuel why not throw some air at it. a spacer would allow more air to enter the throttle body around the throttle plates. worth a shot right?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 236
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From: Terrace B.C. Canada
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 775
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From: Temperance,MI
It dosen't have a idling problem like everyone says when using long tube headers, map, iac, are all good, it idles at around 700rpm. It just has driving issues driving down the road at a constant speed or shifting it will just loose power for around 10seconds, or if I put it down it will solve it. Along with the always rich code its bad I can run it up to 3,000-3500rpm and just watch black smoke. I'm all out of ideas and at the rate my oil smells like gas its running out of time.
thanks
Curtis
thanks
Curtis
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Temperance,MI
Nope everything is still the way it should be only thing that has been changed is the exhaust. For checking to see the voltage on the o2 what wire are you supose to use?
Thanks
Curtis
Thanks
Curtis
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Here is a sketch of the O2 Sensor's wire harness:
Hold yours so it matches the picture.
Trace the wires that go into GROUND and HEGO.
Plug the Harness back. Backprobe those wires with a voltmeter. Start the engine cool. The voltage should be .6V and higher. Once the engine starts warming up, the voltage should drop down between .4V-.6V
Hold yours so it matches the picture.
Trace the wires that go into GROUND and HEGO.
Plug the Harness back. Backprobe those wires with a voltmeter. Start the engine cool. The voltage should be .6V and higher. Once the engine starts warming up, the voltage should drop down between .4V-.6V