Crankcase Breather removal
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From: Palm Coast, Floria
Crankcase Breather removal
Has anyone ever removed the Y-Block crankcase breather element from the lower front left side of the engine and devised a method to convert it to a PCV valve system?
Mine is a 239 cu in. I know that later models 292 and 312 had a different crankcase breather system. Just unsure without a major effort how it was done.
Any information or ideas would be welcome and helpful.
Mine is a 239 cu in. I know that later models 292 and 312 had a different crankcase breather system. Just unsure without a major effort how it was done.
Any information or ideas would be welcome and helpful.
Last edited by trucktex941; Feb 15, 2005 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Misspelled words and additional in formation
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From: Midland, Texas
I did my road draft tube located at the rear of my valley pan and put a PCV valve in a line that ran to my manifold. Got the tip from Roger here on the board to skirt an interference problem with my manifold.
What it amounted to was cutting the draft tube off... inserting a brass tube and sealing up the cap, then running line to the PCV and then to the manifold. Pretty simple. Will try to dig up pics. helpfully, himmelberg
What it amounted to was cutting the draft tube off... inserting a brass tube and sealing up the cap, then running line to the PCV and then to the manifold. Pretty simple. Will try to dig up pics. helpfully, himmelberg
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Midland, Texas
Star... the way I get it, the road draft tube was designed to draw off crankcase gases when the truck hit 25 mph. They could and would clog up causing pressures that induced oil leaks at the rear main seal. This may be fiction, but in any case, mine had to be altered and here was the solution.
I cut the tube portion off abaft the centerline of the canister and then perpendicular to that at the base.
Then I JB welded a brass tube into the side of the canister.
It was the work of an instant to bend a piece of aluminum 90*, trim, and JB weld to the opening left by the cut. Plugged 1/2" rubber tube to the brass... inserted a Deutsch 134 (or 135) valve... continued on with the 3/8" hose to the fitting in the center of my manifold.
You can also put a fitting on your valve covers... plug your 3/8 line into one side and run another rubber tube to your aircleaner.
While the application isn't exactly the same with yours, perhaps this will help. Good luck with yours. best. himmelberg
I cut the tube portion off abaft the centerline of the canister and then perpendicular to that at the base.
Then I JB welded a brass tube into the side of the canister.
It was the work of an instant to bend a piece of aluminum 90*, trim, and JB weld to the opening left by the cut. Plugged 1/2" rubber tube to the brass... inserted a Deutsch 134 (or 135) valve... continued on with the 3/8" hose to the fitting in the center of my manifold.
You can also put a fitting on your valve covers... plug your 3/8 line into one side and run another rubber tube to your aircleaner.
While the application isn't exactly the same with yours, perhaps this will help. Good luck with yours. best. himmelberg
Last edited by himmelberg; Feb 15, 2005 at 04:50 PM.
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From: Palm Coast, Floria
Removal of Cranckase Breather
Himmelburg and Starfox:
Himmelburg: Thanks for the information. I would be greatly interested in seeing the photographs.
Starfox: The reason for rerouting the crankcase breather on the early Y-Blocks is because of the constnt dripping on the garage floor. It is a tin cannister with a screen filter inside. Once the cup or the base get out of round they leak.
I have tried new gaskets, and even attempted to see if the lip of the cup was bent or warped. No matter what is done it will always leak, That is acuse of the early Y-Blocks and dumb way to vent the crankcase. It ranks right up there with the distributor mounted at an angle on the rear of the enginer. I have always thought a GM guy designed the Y-Block.
Himmelburg: Thanks for the information. I would be greatly interested in seeing the photographs.
Starfox: The reason for rerouting the crankcase breather on the early Y-Blocks is because of the constnt dripping on the garage floor. It is a tin cannister with a screen filter inside. Once the cup or the base get out of round they leak.
I have tried new gaskets, and even attempted to see if the lip of the cup was bent or warped. No matter what is done it will always leak, That is acuse of the early Y-Blocks and dumb way to vent the crankcase. It ranks right up there with the distributor mounted at an angle on the rear of the enginer. I have always thought a GM guy designed the Y-Block.
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