Just exactly what kind of HP is a 532 capable of without breaking the piggy bank , and what would be the best cast head to use since the aluminum ones are a lil on the high side. All I have are the D3's right now and any head i use i plan on getting ported, but ive heard good and bad on the D3's. Btw lets say the piggy bank is 6000$

 

For that kind of cash, you could see 700hp. I'm doing a 514 right now and hoped to spend under $4000 carb to pan...it should come close to 600hp.

Carb...used 850dp with thinned shaft, removed and radiused choke tower $150...can find similar on Ebay pretty easily
Stealth Intake...new...$180
254/259 .647/.647 Solid Roller and Comp lifters...new...$450
Scorpion Rockers...used...$150
514 shortblock ready to run with new bearings and good used pushrods...$1100
Timing chain...Comp adjustable...$40 ebay
DOVE heads bought on website with new Manley valves, isky roller springs, locks/retainers/guideplates...rebuilt...somewhat ported, $600. Put new valve job on them, flowed, cleaned up...$900 total investment
Canton deep pan and pickup...worth the investment IMO...$260
Headers, 2" primary fenderwell exit...$450
MSD Billet distributor with bronze gear..traded some parts to a buddy, equal to around $150
Plug Wires...Accel 300+ from another buddy, known good shape...$50
Head Studs...new...$130
Head Gaskets...lucked out and found FelPros at swap for $10
Assorted gaskets...call it $100

So, I'm a bit over at $4180....but that's the best I could do with scrounging good used parts, and shopping for deals. IMO...I could have really only cut corners on the headers and oil pan, but I see both as vital. The solid roller added a few bucks...but by the time you buy a new solid flat and other parts it's not that far behind and you still have to worry about breaking it in.

Okay, so starting from scratch you'd have $1400 in a stroker kit...plus say $600 to fully machine the block. So call it $900 over my build right there....and you'll have much better parts BTW. So, you're at $5000. Personally, I'd put TFS Street or SCJ heads on it...say $1900...which gets you right to $6000. Figure you'll need the Victor intake...find one used easy for $225...everything else will carry over give or take. This kind of build will get you to 700hp, with reliability...

You didn't specify any kind of requirement other then max power, and a budget....so my reply is only to those parameters.

 

I haven't messed with the big block stuff a lot, but I'm doing research for the engine in my track car. You can get an assebled shortblock for $3900 from Flatlander racing. You could probably get the rest used and still come in under $6k. FWIW, the 532 qand 557 shortblocks are both $3900, but with a 557 you'll be out of rebuilds.

 

Well I guess my requirements would just be reliable seeing as its for a vehicle that would see daily driving, car shows, and definatly the strip. Ofcourse though I do want the most hp I can get for what Im working with. I saw were a 532 kit with pistons, rods and crank was around 1600-1700$ I already have the block on the stand. Balancing is 250$ at my machine shop. So that basically sums up my bottom end minus bearings, oil pan, etc right? Still looking for a place to port a set of heads. I would love aluminum heads but unless I can find a used set decent they are out of the question for now, maybe later when I get it running Ill give in to a set.

 

The kit should be balanced when you get it. It isn't hard to spend $1000 machining a block depending on what it needs. Then you have to assemble it all. Building an engine isn't hard, but when you've got several thousand dollars on the line it is sometimes better to let a pro put it together.

 

Well can someone tell me what all machining I would need. So far the block is at std bore . None of the cylinder walls are scratched or anything. Btw how much of an overbore do I need for a 532? Sorry for all the questions, I put together a few FE's ,but this is my first 385.

 

It depends on how they get to 532 cubes. You can get there with a 0.080 overbore and 4.15" stroke, Std. bore with a 4.5" stroke should be close to that, or anywhere in between. You will need to have the block cleaned and magged, overbore and hone done, check the alignment of the mains and have them corrected if needed, make sure the decks are true and correct them as needed, install cam bearings, possibly notch the block for rod clearance, and probably a few other things. There are people that will say that some of the things above aren't necessary, but if I'm spending several thousand on an engine I'm certainly going to spend a few hundred up front to make sure the foundation is perfect. After that's all done you still might need to check the lifter bores for wear and bush them as necessary. It's also nice to work with an engine that doesn't try to cut you up, so deburring isn't a bad idea. Some builders polish the lifter valley to help the oil drain back; others paint it with with a product who's name escapes me right now.

And on your heads, it might not cost much more to go aluminum than to have the stockers reworked. BBF heads are expensive, so it isn't like a small block where new heads are actually cheaper. If you could get a set of TFS or Edelbrock for $1900 that doesn't sound too bad. Might be better to build a slightly smaller engine to save a few hundred bucks and get better heads with the money. Speedomotive has 533 shortblocks for under $3k.

 

4.3 stroker with a .030 overbore is a 521. Taking the bore out to .080-over gets you to 533, but leaves no room for a rebuild on most stock blocks. A 4.5" stroker at 0.030 over is a 545. 0.080 over gets you to 558. The problem is that the 4.5" crank puts the wrist pins up into the bottom ring groove.

The easiest way to get a good, streetable stroker is the 4.3 crank with a 0.030 bore. It uses off-the-shelf parts and requires no special machining or clearancing for the crank throws. Make your money priorities the heads, cam, and valvetrain parts. That's where most of your HP comes from.

Brad

 

So were would the best place to get a kit with a 4.3 stroke?

 

Has anyone got any experience with fords monster crate engines? That 520 with 625 hp and 600ft/lbs sounds alot like what you want, for about the same $$, on pump gas, and a warranty. Any thoughts?

 

Scat cranks.

Brad

 

most if not all of those kits are NOT balanced the individual components are balanced but the rotating assy is definatly not balanced and needs to be

 

I didn't think the whole assembley was balanced. I know around here no one would balance a BBF stroker, so Im having to take it some ways to have that part done by someone I trust. Thats the only issue Ive had so far, people not wanting to work with a BBF, all they want to touch is sbc's and sbf's.

 

Well I found a kit with a 4.3 stroke @ .30 over ,rods, plus rings, bearings, for a bit more than 1850$. That a good deal?

 

The stroker kit itself will run from $1,550.00 to $1,650.00 depending on vendor. The internal balancing will require at least 3 pieces of mallory heavy metal so plan on spending $300 to $400.00 to internally balance.

I order kits from my dealer already internally balanced and they run $1950.00 to $2.050.00 retail to my clients internally balanced. 4.3" / 4.5" kits are the same cost but the 4.5" cost more to balance.

Is that $1,850.00 kit balanced???


Scott J. / RHP
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