Engine wont come out
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Postmaster
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From: Rep. of Texas
Engine wont come out
I removed the 8 bolts that hold the engine mounts to the emgine crossmember instead of the 4 engine bolts because they were impossible to reach (or nearly so). I also removed the 6 tranny-to-engine bolts.
Now the engine wont come out. Whats left?
Edit: 7.3L turbo w/ ZF 5-spd.
Now the engine wont come out. Whats left?
Edit: 7.3L turbo w/ ZF 5-spd.
Last edited by RawPower; Feb 13, 2005 at 03:21 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Near the trees
You may have to drop the drive shaft and the rear of the tranny to get the angle between the engine and the tranny about the same. Sounds like they're binding.
I've been to Texas. After about 10 shots a tequila ya'll ain't so tough.
by then, I'm invisible
I've been to Texas. After about 10 shots a tequila ya'll ain't so tough.
by then, I'm invisible
Last edited by lcampbell; Feb 13, 2005 at 05:14 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Try a jack under the front of the tranny. It is a real balancing act untill it starts to come apart.
Also pull the oil filter, it will not clear the cross member.
I also pull the bottom pulley off the crank first. It makes things easier when you hoist it out.
I am wondering if the motor mount is also catching something, I always removed the bolts from the block when I pulled mine. That extra bit of lift required there may be why it is binding up.
Also pull the oil filter, it will not clear the cross member.
I also pull the bottom pulley off the crank first. It makes things easier when you hoist it out.
I am wondering if the motor mount is also catching something, I always removed the bolts from the block when I pulled mine. That extra bit of lift required there may be why it is binding up.
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Postmaster
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From: Rep. of Texas
No worky. The engine is still binding or something. I tried propping up the tranny 1/2-3" and no height worked. The only thing left on is the fly wheel cover. No one mentioned anything in there. There isnt is there?
PLC I did get you Email thanks.
PS, 1-2 gallons of antifreeze came out when I drained the oil.
My water "pump" (they are more like paddle wheels or something) Looks fine, but at $30 should I replace it while its out?
PLC I did get you Email thanks.
PS, 1-2 gallons of antifreeze came out when I drained the oil.
My water "pump" (they are more like paddle wheels or something) Looks fine, but at $30 should I replace it while its out?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Nothing in the bell housing. I had two assistants when I removed mine. I got up in the engine bay and worked the front of the engine up and down while the guy under the truck worked a thin pry bar between the block and bell housing carefully and adjusted the jack height under the tranny. Once it moves it will come right out, but getting it to move is a little difficult.
You must be in a twist with the engine making it bind up on the tranny input shaft.
If you have any play in the water pump or it has a lot of miles on it I would replace it.
I did have a water pump shaft break once. That fan is heavy enough that at 3000 RPM it went right through the radiator and AC condensor before it stopped just shy of the grill.
New water pump 35.00
New radiator core 350.
Used AC condensor 50 at salvage yard.
Used fan blades at salvage yard 50.
Antifreeze, tow and time to repair....600 plus dollar lesson.
You must be in a twist with the engine making it bind up on the tranny input shaft.
If you have any play in the water pump or it has a lot of miles on it I would replace it.
I did have a water pump shaft break once. That fan is heavy enough that at 3000 RPM it went right through the radiator and AC condensor before it stopped just shy of the grill.
New water pump 35.00
New radiator core 350.
Used AC condensor 50 at salvage yard.
Used fan blades at salvage yard 50.
Antifreeze, tow and time to repair....600 plus dollar lesson.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Raw power did you drain the A/F before removing any bolts on the waterpump....
Like Dave stated you will need help to do an engine R&R, there are usually two alignment pins on the bellhousing. The pins will corrode and hold the BH on the engine you may need the thin pry bar. Do you have the coolant rad out and a protective piece of thin plywood over the AC rad.
Like Dave stated you will need help to do an engine R&R, there are usually two alignment pins on the bellhousing. The pins will corrode and hold the BH on the engine you may need the thin pry bar. Do you have the coolant rad out and a protective piece of thin plywood over the AC rad.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 15, 2005 at 11:20 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Is the gap even from top to bottom?
You have to keep it as even as you can so the tranny input shaft/ pilot bearing do not bind up. If you have an even inch the shaft should be about out of the pilot bearing, once it comes out the engine will pull apart a lot easier. The alignment dowels should be out already.
Be careful when hoisting high enough to clear the front of the truck. This is the most dangerous part of the job once it comes apart. That is a big chunk of iron on the hoist.
You have to keep it as even as you can so the tranny input shaft/ pilot bearing do not bind up. If you have an even inch the shaft should be about out of the pilot bearing, once it comes out the engine will pull apart a lot easier. The alignment dowels should be out already.
Be careful when hoisting high enough to clear the front of the truck. This is the most dangerous part of the job once it comes apart. That is a big chunk of iron on the hoist.
