i have a 1983 f-150 4x4 302, 4spd, my problem is that when you go about 10 miles and the temp is inbetween 190 and 200 degrees, and you shut it off, its a pain to get it to turn over. i have tried 4 starters, i installed dual batteries and the 2end bat is used only when starting, i have checked the timing, i set it back to 9 deg. instead of 10 deg. the only thing that i wonder about is the ring gear on the flywheel, it may have a couple bad spots, but then again it is fine when cold. so what do you folks think? Thanks for any info you can give me!

 

I'm suspect to corrosion in battery/electrical connections.

Just make sure all the electrical connections regarding the starting & Charging systems are ALWAYS clean and free of corrosion.
They make battery post felts that go under the battery cable connections to keep the corrision from working up into the cable to post space.Invest a $1.50 in them,they do a great job.



Dennis https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=1733&.jpg



Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"


78 F-150 429CJ,Silver
w/Explorer Pkge.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
78-Buick LeSabre 403 4V
84 Volvo DL Wagon

 

NEGATIVE, GHOST RIDER!

Avoid those felt O-Rings like death and taxes!

In practice, I have found that the protective agent in them wears out, and they then attract moisture (specifically BATTERY ACID) like a sponge...

A better investment is a plain old tub of Petroleum Jelly, it costs the same and will last for a long time.

First thing to do is mark it "CAR BATTERIES ONLY" just in case some battery acid gets in it while doing maintenance.

The "Vaseline" (which is the other name for it) should be applied to the terminals after they are clean, and the insides of the clamps.

Put some on the bolt threads to protect them too.

Electrolyte is a mixture of sulphuric acid and water, and the Vaseline will repel it so that it cannot contact the metal. At the same time, it doesn't interfere with the electrical connections, and also helps to lubricate the clamp bolts so that they don't become rusted together.

I agree completely that the cranking problem is almost certainly from the post connections - and I'll go a step further - I bet it's the positive post. If I'm right, there will be a black discoloration instead of a shiny metal surface where the terminals and posts make contact!

Then again we could both be wrong. It could be an over-heated bearing...

NOTE: Don't forget about the negative battery wire where it connects to the frame and/or engine. Check to see that the cab ground is good. And ensure the cab is also grounded to the frame. Rust never sleeps...
-Simplest to use an ohmeter between the starter case and the negative battery post.




Quoting Sherlock Holmes:
"If we eliminate the obvious then whatever is left, no matter how unlikely it may seem, must be the truth"

 

Do you have headers? They are famous for overheating the starter making it malfunction. I have also had a minor exhaust manifold leak cause the same problem. It will puff exhaust down on the starter and do the same thing.

 

no headers, but when using all of these starters, i did use the same nosecone, could a bad nosecone bearing cause this? Thanks!