Yesterday I installed a new clockspring (several weeks ago I quickly fixed the old one, should of used solder . . .) and a new EGR valve controller. I had the codes run (Many parts stores will run it for free) and they came back saying a bad EGR. They priced me an EGR at around a Frankin. I remembered our Windstar had a controller that went bad, so I called the dealer and they said the controller ($30.00) goes out more frequently than the EGR valve, so that is what I am trying first. My mpg since I bought it has been in the 8MPG range, and I would like to see it in the low teens. Should know in a week or two.

Clockspring (the part that controls the horn/cruise/airbag wiring) installation was not bad. Had to remove the steering wheel (Buy a puller, they are cheap and we need tools. Really.) etc. Someone had cut off one of the connectors, so I had to splice on in, but no big deal. I like having a horn, these vans have great horns. Cruise is nice as well.

Anyway, the steering experience. I drove a new E250 Supervan the other day, and the slop in the steering was non-existant. My question - what needs to be replaced on my low-mileage (250,000) van to tighten up that steering and what is the difficulty of that job?

Thank you!

Steve
Honda919Rider too!

 

Oh - I just had the van inspected and the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler bars were all OK they said.

 

Do you have original wheels or have they been replaced with ones that might extend further from the factory center line? I have had 2 vans with replaced wheels, one chrome reversed and one spoked. Both made the rig feel loose in the steering. At work we have a E250 with chrome aftermarkets that has the same feel.

 

When we first drove our '99 E350 w/100,000 mi. we had several issues. Front wheel bearings adjusted, shocks which I replaced. We found play in the steering box that the dealer agreed to tighten. This was probably the largest contributing factor to the thrill ride of changing lanes at 70-75 mph. This adjustment I did not feel comfortable making myself. Too tight can be disasterous too. Imbalanced tire pressure can contribute to the lack of steering too, but I assume you have already checked that. Don't trust dealers on tire pressure. Good luck.

 

Thanks!

Yes, original wheels. Steering box makes since, did not know it was adjustable. I better get to studying up, can not be any worse that changing the timing belt in our 944!

 

The steering box is simple to adjust, however, it may not be easy. There is a slotted screw on top of the box surrounded by a lock nut. Loosen the nut and tighten the screw to remove slack in the steering box. Just do it a little at a time and test drive in between adjustments. I haven't seen any specs on this. It is kind of awkward to do and would have been easier if the slotted screw had been a hex head. With 250k, it may be time to rebuild or replace the box.
Also check the I beam pivot bushings, the sway bar bushings, the radius arm bushings and the wheel bearings while your at it. If the front end has never had any work it's amazing that all of these things are not in need of replacement.

Gene

 

Oh yeah, do you have a list of air bag codes? Seems like no matter which code someone ask about the answer is always the clock spring. My cruise and horn work but my airbag light is flashing a 34.

Gene

 

Thanks Gene, I will try the adjustment first as described then budget to replace the box.

As for the 3-4 error code:
34 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - Low Resistance or Shorted

It could be the clock spring is "breaking" and will go soon. Try disconnecting the battery, then reconnecting to see it it resets. Worth a try.

Prior to replacing the clock spring, I had excellent results with a small piece of place electrical tape installed over the blinking air bag light.

:-)

 

Thanks for the reply E250,

Yeah I found a code list on the net yesterday after posting the question in this thread. Do you know the location of the safing sensor or the correct resistance for that circuit? I think that is just a mercury switch that has to slosh forward in a frontal impact so a minor bump to the impact sensors in the front won't set off the bag.

My light has been flashing so long I'm surprised that the bulb hasn't burned out. I hardly notice it anymore. I would probably feel like something was wrong if I put tape over it and couldn't see it flashing out of the corner of my eye.

I put a new battery in the van a few weeks ago and had it disconnected for a few days at that time. It didn't reset the bag warning.

Did the clock spring mechanism just have contacts bridging between the steering wheel and the column like a normal set of horn or turn signal contacts? I wonder if cleaning the contacts wouldn't solve some of the clock spring codes that people are reporting.

You may want to apply a good penetrating oil on the adjustment for the steering box a few days ahead of time. You will need a stubby straight blade screw driver to make the adjustment. On mine it was fairly easy to tighten the screw but nearly imposable to loosen it if you adjust it too tight, so just adjust a little at a time.

Gene

 

No contacts, more like a ribbon or tape. Wound up like a loosely rolled roll of tape - like a clockspring when viewed from above.
I am on the road and no access to any schematics. Might surf and see if there is anything out there, not sure of any specs or further troubleshooting, sorry! If it has been that long, sure does not seem like it would be the clockspring, the cruise and horn should of quit by now, it seems.

 

Thanks for the info,
Makes sense to me now. I wondered how they mantained contact with any sort of wire like connection, but your explaination that it actually looks like a clockspring clears up how it works as well as the name.
Thanks,
Gene