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I have a freind with a late 90's ranger with a v-6. He took it in to have a tune up done and was told the heads would have to come off to remove the frozen plugs. I belive this thing has 100000 miles and the pluges have been that long. So what is the best way to get them out?
First, don't go back to the guy that wants to make too much money for changing plugs..............oops, I meant pulling heads. Hopefully he didn't round off the spark plug(s) while attempting to pull them.
Use a good six point spark plug socket (ie, not a made in china that might fail while trying to remove the plug) and keep the centerline of the socket and extension(s) parallel to the centerline of the plug. I've heard of people welding a socket to the spark plug to remove ones that have been rounded. I hope you don't have to go that road.
Give it a try and let us know what happens.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Feb 12, 2005 at 03:10 AM.
We started spraying the plugs with PB Blaster. We will spray them several more times today. Do you think it will help to use some heat or let the truck run untill it is hot?
We started spraying the plugs with PB Blaster. We will spray them several more times today. Do you think it will help to use some heat or let the truck run untill it is hot?
Thanks
Bill
i always change my plugs with the engine hot. they come out a lot easier. just dont get burnt because its easy to do.
I think it actually says in the owners manual (or maybe its the chiltons), NOT to change the plugs when the engine is hot. It is supposed to be completely cool. I would have to agree. I would think the heat would cause the metal to expand slightly, making it harder to take out and install the new plugs. But I could be wrong....
You have to be careful with these type of engines. With the heads being aluminum and the spark plugs being steel they tend to weld themselves together. In this case a hot head (aluminum) is NOT the way to go. It causes the metal to become softer, so when you try to remove the steel plug, you pull out the threads.
Keep spraying the penetrating liquid and good luck. If you do pull out the threads, all is not lost as you can put in a heli-coil after drilling and re-taping the spark plug hole. This will put in new threads the same size as the old ones. Not a fun job. That is probably why the mechanic wanted to pull the heads.
When you do get them out, buy some anti-sieze compound and coat the new plugs with it. That way next time, if there is a next time, they will release and come out.
You may want to pull the inner fender well for better access to some of the more difficult to access plugs. May make a big difference if you can not get right at one or two of them.
You have to be careful with these type of engines. With the heads being aluminum and the spark plugs being steel they tend to weld themselves together. In this case a hot head (aluminum) is NOT the way to go. It causes the metal to become softer, so when you try to remove the steel plug, you pull out the threads.
Keep spraying the penetrating liquid and good luck. If you do pull out the threads, all is not lost as you can put in a heli-coil after drilling and re-taping the spark plug hole. This will put in new threads the same size as the old ones. Not a fun job. That is probably why the mechanic wanted to pull the heads.
When you do get them out, buy some anti-sieze compound and coat the new plugs with it. That way next time, if there is a next time, they will release and come out.
i agree, with the heads being aluminum, that the engine should cool before changing the plugs.
mines a 91 4 cyl. and doesnt have aluminum heads.
i find it easier to get the wires off with the engine warm.
Last edited by el conquistador; Feb 13, 2005 at 04:43 PM.
Well I got the first plug out with it being cold. I used an air rachet and worked it out and in untill it came out all the way. I put anti-sieze on it. We are going to take the truck out to my shop monday night so we can work in doors and have enough air to run the rachet.