When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Last year i had my heater core replaced at the same time I did the thermostat. I haven't been able to get heat since. I have heard that the Aerostars all have heat problems. I live in Northern Ontario Canada and it get cold up here. Any ideas?
Was the thermostat installed in the correct position, and not upside down? Did you replace that thermostat, in case (even new) it was stuck in the open position? Also, have you had a "flow" test performed, to determine that the coolant is flowing in and out of the heater core, and through the radiator?
Do your own "flow" test first. Warm up the engine and check the upper radiator hose. If it is hot then the thermostat is opening, if cold the thermostat is bad (or in wrong as per Ed's post). Move on to the two hoses going to the heater core, near the passenger side fender. Both of these should be equally warm/hot. If one is hot and the other noticeably cooler, the heater core is plugged. Sometimes a reverse flush will restore function. A third possibility is the thermostat is permanently stuck in the open position, not allowing the coolant to reach proper temperature (overcooling). In this case, the upper radiator hose will feel lukewarm at best as will both heater hoses. These simple tests should narrow down the problem. Good luck.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Feb 11, 2005 at 10:28 AM.
Put the flushing T in the return line from the heater, hook up the garden hose, open the radiator cap, turn on the hose and voila - the reverse flush.
(In reality, you drain and dispose of the old coolant properly before beginning this procedure.) The force of water flow in the reverse direction is more likely to dislodge gunk/sediment in the heater core than the regular direction but if your T is in the inlet hose it may still work as well. Use of a flushing solution beforehand will help also.
Aerocolorado is 100%+ right on the money, with his two posts / suggestions. Good luck, Senseidanf. Above all, take your time, and work on the van when you are not hurried. Aeroc.'s suggestion on feeling the top radiator hose, when the engine is fully warmed up, is the first thing I would do. It should be hot to the touch, obviously. Ed
PS If you were getting oil in the coolant, and vise-versa, you would be able to tell right away. Your oil would be gray and jellylike. A lot of large bubbles while looking into the radiator (cap off and engine idling) will possibly indicate head gasket problems. Sometimes bubbles will indicate a hairline cracked head gasket, instead of a fully "blown" head gasket, which mixes your oil and coolant. Cracked head gaskets are usually caused by improper torqueing procedures when a head is removed, then installed. Or, when an engine is overheated just enough, to cause the head to rise and warp ever so slightly when run too hot for too long. This is more common with engines with a cast iron block, and aluminum heads. cast iron blocks, with iron heads, generally are less prone to head gasket problems. Also, have you determined that the heat selector lever is in the "heat" position (inside the dashboard) the switch is working? Years ago, I once had a friend who complained about no heat in a 350 Chevy Nova. He replaced a ton of common cooling parts, flushed the radiator. To make a long story short, a clip had broken off of the "cold" and "hot" temperature settings. So moving the lever to "hot", watching the lever with a flashlight, I could see that the lever was simply moving back and forth, while the temp selector remained in the "cold" blue posistion. Replaced the clip, lever moved to the red "hot" setting, and instant HEAT. I'm not saying that is your problem, only sometimes it's stupid things like that going on, and not something more likely.
hmm... ed has a really good point there. check the lever action and also the damper door. sometimes it might just be the hvac system that's failing you. i hope this is the case, as its much cheaper to fix than a blown head gasket.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.