Lower -

What I'm thinking now is that I want to put the switch into the hot lead, rather than the ground. The hot lead is closer to the cab wall switch location (at rear of front fender) that I want to use. If I splice (as Fenders suggested) a fused line into the input side of that cutout switch and run that to the clock/radio, I should get power there and nowhere else.

The ground cutout you suggest would probably work too, if the radio had its own (not common) ground wire. The ground strap is closer to and easier to wire for the floor location you have in mind.
Still noodling on a Rube Goldberg setup that I can lie to Fenders about.

 

No source for carpet grommets - I assumed these would be easy to find. Perhaps I'm wrong...

 

Randy

Not sure if you really want to cut the power to the door solenoids .

Chuck

 

Chuck -

Funny thing about that. Everytime I reconnect the power, the solenoids actuate. So, while on the one hand, I don't want someone opening my door because they found my hideout button, I automatically get the doors open by just connecting the power.

Now I just have to figure out how to keep the keyed switch clean in a fender well.

Still noodling...

 

Randy,

The information on the web site I posted (Battery Cutoff Switches) say those units have a built-in bypass wire specifically designed to power clocks, computers, etc. when the main switch is turned off. I suspect the units you are using, Joe, have this feature as well. They are designed to work on the hot lead from the battery. I suppose you could mess with them and make them work on the ground lead if you wanted to spend the time.

As far as how it works, the system is basically a starter solenoid that is powered by a switch - just like the starter solenoid is powered by the ignition switch. The starter solenoid is just a whomping big relay, good for 750 Amps short term and maybe 75 to 100 Amps continuous duty.

For good theft protection, it seems to me that you want the disconnect solenoid to be out of plain view - otherwise the simple solution for a thief is to jumper the input terminal to the output terminal with a jumper cable. You might just want to mount it on the firewall in the engine bay where it would be awkward to reach, so jumpering it isn't so easy.

The swith and circuit that controls the disconnect solenoid can be just about anything you can dream up that will supply a enough current to activate the solenoid. The web site I was looking at has several types which I won't repeat here. Take a few minutes and read through the information there. You'll get a good idea of what's available (at least from one vendor) as well as how they work and what they look like.

 

RJ

Both your door solenoids pop when you reconnect power? That sounds a little inconvenient. I would definitely be running either the switch George mentions, or in my case a fuselink off the input stud on my switch. I would think locating the switch in the interior would be a bit more secure.

 

George - Thanks. Yes, I did look at the website. Nice stuff. Pricey, but nice. The keyed weatherproof lock looks most interesting to me, because of where I want to locate it.

I still have the switch that came on the truck. It is not a solenoid. It is just a honkin' big switch that works with a key. It isn't weatherproofed, though. If I use that, I need to keep the crud out of it.

Fenders - Yes, it bothers me that the solenoids say hello, but it could be a good thing, too. After all, automatic door openers are kinda cool...as long as nobody who sees the truck figures out it was a mistake.

I have considered a cutoff inside. I could do that. I do plan on a hideout coil wire cutout inside. I just like the keyed, exterior idea right now.

Still noodling...

 

On the Hotronics unit , I believe the instuctions were to simply run a fused wire from the hot side to the radio, or whatever. On my street rod the battery is in the trunk and so is the remote disconnect. On my F100 I mounted it between the battery [ original location] and the frame, so it would be hard to access from anywhere except thru the door in the floor. It provides theft protection as well as protection against me forgetting to disconect before any service. Joe

 

I purchased a battery disconnect this weekend and planning on installing it. I like Joe Gaddy's idea of mounting it between the battery and frame. However, my concern is I don't want to cut the new carpet to access the battery cover. I'm thinking about installing the switch on the side of the passenger side seat on the floor, but I also don't care to look (and have everyone say "what's that thing for?") at the switch from the interior. I don't want to crawl under the truck to access the switch either. In other words, I haven't got a clue where the mount this switch? LOL.. Any suggestions? The switch will allow me to disconnect power, instead of pulling the carpet and removing the battery lid everytime I want to do anything electrical. If the battery needs replacing, I'll have to pull the end of the carpet or figure out a way of getting out from underneath. ( new battery box?). Decisions, decisions, LOL....

 

Lower

Under the seat works pretty good. Stealth, but still accessable. Don't put it where it can be kicked. Mark your hole from the bottom so you don't put it directly above the frame rail. Easier wrenching room. Or to jumper it in the event the switch ever failed.

 

My disconnect is a remote unit. The switch is under the dash. Just the solenoid is between the battery and the frame. Sorry that I did not make that clear.

 

I installed the disconnect switch on my truck. I placed it just to the rear of the bench seat directly back from the battery. I think it'll look good when I put the seat back. I have to wire it. It appears to be a really easy job if I use the negative cable and then ground the other post. To do the positive side I really need to route some cables, etc. Can anyone tell me the difference of using the positive side versus the negative? Will it still function the same as far as disconnecting the power? I've heard people going both ways.

 

Lower

That could work. Unless I'm not thinking straight, the following conditions would apply. You can't have any other unswitched ground leads off the battery obviously. And don't attempt any form of switch bypass for radio memory etc. If you were to run a small bypass, and then were to inadvertently hit the ignition switch with the kill switch in the off position, the bypass ground wire is going up in smoke immediately. I always switch the battery positive lead.

 

Hey folks -

I was just scanning thru catalogs and ran across a Master Cutoff Switch like the one I was talking about. It is a keyed, weatherproof 500 amp switch from JC Whitney (p/n AJQ150856Y). Cost = $18.99. A keyed 1000 amp switch = $27.99.

I love it when a plan comes together...

 

good ideas all, my model A has a remote mounted cutoff that has a push/pull cable, (sort of like a gas door release) It is sold for use in oval track cars and for me it gave the best of all worlds. I also wired the radio and the dome light switches around the cutoff. cost about $60.00