Brake hissing
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Brake hissing
I just got my truck home this evening..it's a '84 F-150 2wd short wheelbase..it's got a 302 in it that was recently rebuilt..i got the truck for $700..which i think is a good deal,because the only thing bad about it is the driver's side bedside has some scrapes and rust over the wheelwell and the bumper is bent up in the back from an accident..and the other thing is the wiring..i am going to have to do something about it..i haven't really checked it out,but one thing that just made me sick was that i saw an extension cord under the hood..yea,you read that right...somebody had used an extension cord in the wiring..****es me off that some people are so stupid..but anyways..
THE PROBLEM..
When i push the break pedal,theres alot of room before the brakes catch,and it makes a hissing sound...seems like vacuum to me,because of that..but thats just a stab in the dark..maybe someone knows what it is?..thanks..
THE PROBLEM..
When i push the break pedal,theres alot of room before the brakes catch,and it makes a hissing sound...seems like vacuum to me,because of that..but thats just a stab in the dark..maybe someone knows what it is?..thanks..
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man..thanks..i swear that has to be the fastest reply i've ever gotten..you replied in under 30 seconds..lol..
is it unsafe to drive with it like that?..or is it fine as long as i can take the hissing noise?...thanks
is it unsafe to drive with it like that?..or is it fine as long as i can take the hissing noise?...thanks
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From: Three oaks michigan
its fine, many people drive there cars w/o knowing, they just know that the pedel is spongy/fades, if you have 2 people, well dont even need 2 if you can take the line off and plug, push on it and see if it gets harder, if it does, unplug the line, and plug it back in and test to see if it is still soft dont drive with the plug in it though, just hook the line back up,
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From: Drayton, ND
Mines been doing that for 9 years. Probably only came into play once in that time, but not sure if I could've stopped any shorter at 70 mph with a 52 inch big screen in the box before I hit that deer anyway.
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I am in the process of rewiring/fixing an 85 f350. It had wiring nuts and duct tape everywhere!
I have ran into lots of problems because of the dual tanks. Let me know if you need help with the wiring, I think I have these trucks figured out!
I have ran into lots of problems because of the dual tanks. Let me know if you need help with the wiring, I think I have these trucks figured out!
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thanks for the offer mstarr,and thanks for the reply's everyone else....i just noticed today that i didn't actually have the back tank under the truck...its just got the front tank under there..so i might get another tank to go under there,or maybe not...do you see any problems with just having the front tank?...
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I had a bad pump in my rear tank, took out the tank for a few days to clean it out. I drove the truck, no problem.
Did the truck have dual tanks originally? The original design has many flaws and is plagued by problems.
You can get a brand-new stell rear tank from "partsamerica" for $97.
Did the truck have dual tanks originally? The original design has many flaws and is plagued by problems.
You can get a brand-new stell rear tank from "partsamerica" for $97.
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yea..it originally had duel tanks i guess..because the fill neck for the back tank is still there...and it has the switch in the cab..so i assume it originally did...that front tank looks kinda small..thats the only thing that worries me about it...might not be able to get far on a full tank...do you know how many gallon it holds?..
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The fronts were either 16 or 19 gallons, the short beds had the 16. It depends on your setup.
Below is a link to parts america:
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectPa...FSending+Units
You will also need the relays and switching valve if they are bad or gone. I assume they are bad since it is disconnected. The switching valve, which should be on the frame rail right in front of the front tank, runs about $150. There are also two relays for the power to the tanks and for switching, they are $30 something a piece. That is assuming that all the wiring is still there.
Below is a link to parts america:
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectPa...FSending+Units
You will also need the relays and switching valve if they are bad or gone. I assume they are bad since it is disconnected. The switching valve, which should be on the frame rail right in front of the front tank, runs about $150. There are also two relays for the power to the tanks and for switching, they are $30 something a piece. That is assuming that all the wiring is still there.