i've been doing a little research on solid lifters, and the modifications needed. what is the major advantage of using solid lifters as to hydraulic lifters? thanks for the help.

 

Well, there is no real mandatory modifications. Just the fact they DON'T need oil you can then plug the galleys and use the oil at the places it is needed MORE.

The advantage is they will not float at high rpm like a hydraulic will. Most hyd lifters will run to 6000 rpm realistically with out problem, but once you get to 6500-up they will not keep up. That is where the solid lifter takes over. The disadvantage is keeping them adjusted correctly. Not that it is REALLY a problem, but some consider it(not me!). Plus the "tap'n" noise annoys some(not me!).

That's the basics in a nutshell.

 

I've wondered about that... Even though you don't need the hydraulic pressure for the lifter, doesn't the lifter need to be oiled anyway? Or is there enough oil flying around that they are well-oiled anyway?

 

There is enough splash to oil them. There is alot of oil draining from the heads, going down into the valley. Let alone the volume of splash from underneath, it gets more than enough.

 

The only thing today that can be an issue with a solid cam is the breakin. Zinc is the additive used in engine oil to assist with the breakin. Due to emmissions and tree huggers at the epa zinc is no longer in most engine oils. Valvoline racing oil still has zinc and Crane has a zinc based break in additive that SHOULD be added before breakin in solid cam applications. If an extreme lift cam is used and your running dual valve springs just keep the outer springs on the heads until the cam is broken in. Then replace the inners after. Kind of a pia but worth the effort. The recommended solid cam breakin time of 30 min at 2000 rpm's is so the oil splashes on the lifters keeping them oiled and is the most critical part. G.

 

i had a big hydraulic cam in my windsor, and have since changed it to a big solid. i love the solid. and like larry i love the clatter of the solid.

 

solid lifters are more accurate. hyd lifters can very

 

Ya, kinda forgot about the break-in routine with adding the springs back in... Yup, it's a PITA. With most hydraulics you won't have that much spring, so it's not an issue.

 

A little more information here. API SM rated oils are the ones you really have to watch out for. They are really low in zinc. The GF-3 rated passenger car SL oils are still somewhat limited though. I like to use 15w40 diesel rated oil, it's got a lot more zinc in it already and seems to work well.

 

I've always used regular old 20w50 Valvoline in most of my motors. I usually have cam lube on those parts. Never had any issues in near 20 yrs.

 

That could change though now that they have just recently taken most if not all of the zinc out. As long as everything is already broke in you will probably be allright but with higher spring pressures, maybe not. I guess only time will tell. Diesel rated oils are still high in zinc I believe and so is Valvoline Racing (not the VR-1 racing Valvoline), Kendall racing oil is supposed to be to. Another alternative at least for cam and engine break-in in GM's EOS lube (I know, I know but i don't think that Ford has anything similar to it but maybe) and it is high in zinc content.

 

Castrol for me.

If you're worried about break-in oil, just use Crane moly pre-lube on the cam for break-in - there will be enough moly/zinc in the motor even after the first oil change that you won't be worrying about that little bit of zinc in "normal" oil for your break-in

 

I put a solid cam in mine because DesktopDyno gave is better torque AND power than the next nearest hydraulic. Also, the vision for this engine was to be that PITA engine that every man has to have at least once in his life -- you know, too much cam, too much carb, headers and all of that. Then once you've had an engine like that, rock stock starts to look pretty darn attractive.

Now that I'm slowly getting it the engine broken in and tuned in, the cam doesn't seem all that bad.

I agree that it is a little annoying to hear the valvetrain clattering. It's a hard noise ot get used to if all you've ever driven is hydraulic cammed engines. I have to keep telling myself that that noise is ok and nothing is wrong with the engine. Also, I worry about not checking the valve lash often enough. I don't put on a lot of miles in a year, so I'm thinking it will be once per year.

Oh, and Crane was recommending 0.026" lash. That was way too much clatter for me and I squeezed it down to 0.021. It sounds better, but my concern is that I may burn the valves on a long trip if I'm really on it. So far so good, though.

If I had it to do over, I'd go one step back closer to stock. Not rock stock, mind you, and still plenty hot, but I just took my choices a little too far. For a truck I would probably go with the Crane cam that Ratsmoker and a few others used, last three digits '801 or something like that. My Crane cam number is 341191. I'm using the solid shell lifters and special pushrods from DSC Motorsport.

This engine will actually wind up in a 1929 Ford hot rod (once it is built), and it is much more appropriate for a car like that.

 

Yup, I know that feeling - that's why (sadly) the '74 is on a slow-boat to China to be re-born as cheap Walmart bicycles, and my '01 F250 is now my daily driver.

So as not to encite criticism, the '74 chassis and cab were so rotted it was going to be a large flower-pot before long anyway - I kept the 390. Still need something to put it in

I'm used to mechanical lifters, I drove Triumph TR7's with overhead-cam that used shims to adjust the valve-lash. Nice thing was, you could tell something was wrong when the noise changed drastically. The only thing you notice when a hydraulic cam rounds out is the miss when the lobe is already gone

art k.

 

Another factor to consider is that with the same lift and duration, a solid cam will make more horspower and torque, because of the lobe design...A solid cam is designed with more agressive ramps, because you dont have to wory about sinking the lifter.

You also have the option to adjust the lash to change the cam's aggressiveness. More lash = shorter lift and duration...so it give racers an option for different track conditions..

You also have to be carfull spec'ing a solid cam as The lash effectivly reduces lift and duration....You will lose approx 10 deg of duration for .020 lash...and just subtract the lash from the lift.

An FE will live comfortably with .016-.020 of lash, will run with a minimum of noise, and not burn valves...I run .018 with mine and its quieter than the hyd cam that came out, however the mfg designs a soild cam with a closing ramp to let the valves seat gently...If you start closing up the mfg's specs too much you may start to pound the valves hard against the seats and only bad things can come of that