bad brakes
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
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From: Huntington Indiana
bad brakes
92 - f350 dually w/automatic trans, 7.3 diesel We have replaced brake linings, wheel cylinders, spring kits, drums, calipers, pads, park brake cables ,abs valve, master cyl/booster, vacuum sensor, brake lines, vacuum bled lines repeatedly.
The pedal still goes way down before engaging, then fades under power, almost to the floor and the rear brakes do not engage. Found this out on a trial run, stopping it on ice and snow. Fronts work good, rears never try.
We have run out of ideas on this and need some new ideas.
The pedal still goes way down before engaging, then fades under power, almost to the floor and the rear brakes do not engage. Found this out on a trial run, stopping it on ice and snow. Fronts work good, rears never try.
We have run out of ideas on this and need some new ideas.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 864
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From: Near the trees
I had a problem like this on a big truck (Freightliner) I picked up from someone and the problem just turned out to be the brakes out of adjustment. I just tightened them up till they were tight on the drum, then backed them off till they just barely touched.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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i put a hydrobooster out of a superduty powerstroke in my truck and i love it, i had the same problem and replaced everything in the braking system. i could bleed my brakes and they would work fine for about a week or so then they would start fading, i could bleed again and they would work for a little while, the only thing i didn't relace was brake lines and the little theng with a wire connector that goes to the abs "i believe thats what it is" drums, rotors, wheel bearings, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders, booster, master cylinder, spring kits, p.b. cables, the little adjusters in the rear brakes. i replaced everything accet for lines. then i got mad one day and bought a hydrobooster off a s.d. and put it on there WITH the s.d. master cylinder and they work like a champ, never had to bleed again.
you may have to put some kind of pressure regulator to the back brakes because the master is made to be used on s.d's with rear dics brakes and the back ones always engage first. it works fine when the roads aren't slick and it never gets cold down here so it don't bother me much.
you may have to put some kind of pressure regulator to the back brakes because the master is made to be used on s.d's with rear dics brakes and the back ones always engage first. it works fine when the roads aren't slick and it never gets cold down here so it don't bother me much.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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if you bleed the rear brakes, does it get better for a while, then go away like mine did, i never had to bleed the front brakes, just the rear ones. it sounds weird, but it got air IN the rear lines somehow w/o ever dripping a drop of fluid. make damn sure the adjusters are pretty tight on the rear brakes, jack the back tires up, turn the tires slowly and adjust the rear brakes. stop when the brakes grab a little, then pump the brakes pretty good and bleed, if the brakes seem to have loosened up a little, adjust them again. it won't hurt if the back brakes grab a little all the time, just not WAY too tight. and there is a bleeder on the actual ABS thing with the wires gonig to it. bleed that too. the brakes should work good for at least around the block by this time. i found that my adjusters kept walking loose on me and i don't know how it did that, but i always tightened them up
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I replaced a master cylinder that was bad about a month ago.
The new one I installed was worse than the one I took off the truck.
Bad thing was it worked right for about 10 stops before it started going to the floor.
I changed the master cylinder and loaded a load of cast iron pipe for the job the next day. Everything was great till I went to get off the interstate and wala ..no brakes. Not a good thing in WV.
Changed master cylinder again and all is great now.
I said something about it to some mechanic friends of mine.
They estimate that 3 out of 5 parts they get are defective in the box they come in.
They also said it does not matter where you get the parts at, Ford, GM, Dodge, NAPA, Autozone, or Advance. They all have about the same percentage of bad parts.
The new one I installed was worse than the one I took off the truck.
Bad thing was it worked right for about 10 stops before it started going to the floor.
I changed the master cylinder and loaded a load of cast iron pipe for the job the next day. Everything was great till I went to get off the interstate and wala ..no brakes. Not a good thing in WV.
Changed master cylinder again and all is great now.
I said something about it to some mechanic friends of mine.
They estimate that 3 out of 5 parts they get are defective in the box they come in.
They also said it does not matter where you get the parts at, Ford, GM, Dodge, NAPA, Autozone, or Advance. They all have about the same percentage of bad parts.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Big red If you jam the brakes on does it make a difference vice pushing gently. If the brakes work some what better with jamming on, but not with gentle pressure the MC is bad. Does the fluid level drop when brakes pushed.
What booster did you get, was it the right one for a diesel........ Did you check to ensure the brake shoes were in the right place ie small primary shoe on the front and larger secondary on the rear. Also check the adjuster(s) are ajusting the brakes tighter not loosening them.
What booster did you get, was it the right one for a diesel........ Did you check to ensure the brake shoes were in the right place ie small primary shoe on the front and larger secondary on the rear. Also check the adjuster(s) are ajusting the brakes tighter not loosening them.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
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From: New York
I had the same problem after fixing some lines, replacing master, and doing full rears. They were out of adjustment. make sure you go the right way. I'm willing to bet they were adjusted incorrectly.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
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From: Huntington Indiana
we blocked off the master cylinder rear brake with a plug. We had lots of pedal stop. hooked up the lines bled system. Crimped off the rear brakes before the slaveson both sides. brake pedal went slowly to floor.Just pressing like you was braking. BUT when we released the pedal the oil shot up to the top of the reservoir in a stream. Only on the back not the front. So we figure somewhere it must be putting fluid and trapping it. between the master cylinder and the slave. we have bled about 4 gallons of dot3 thru the system. glade our shop is paying for this one. And we have the rear brakes adjusted right up to specs. (up tight then back off a little)
PS We are on our 3rd master cyl.
PS We are on our 3rd master cyl.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Feb 11, 2005 at 07:00 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
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This appears to be a common malady...I recently purchased a 1992 F250 4X4 with 71,000 miles. P.O. replaced all brakes. I noticed pedal fade at stoplights. Mechanic suspected RABS valve, I suspected. master cyl... which was found to be leaking. Replaced m.c. adjusted rear brakes. Fade stopped, but brakes still do not win my confidence- backing down a steep hill, truck barely stopped. I dunno, but I hate to just throw money at a problem, hoping to get lucky...