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[QUOTE=89ford73]i found the how many miles thread and counted 3 out of 58 that had more miles than me on their psd's. and if you ask those 3 people, i would be willing to bet that only one or none of them had a 4.10 rear gear ratio.
not to mention the people that THINK they have 4.10's and really don't of course if you put 500,000 miles on a vehicle, i would hope they know the truth about what ratio they have. a 4.10 ratio will run 65 at 3300 in direct ratio, 1:1
Now for the real answer, people make good points both directions but it certainly is a risk vs. benefit assessment. As stated by putting the filter on empty you still have oil in the bearings for the engine to start, it's just the old Slick 50 myth rearing its ugly head that makes people think otherwise. That being said it is always better to run the engine with oil pressure than without, so that is why I prefill my oil filters. I am a fire apparatus mechanic.
Now get this, of the heavy diesel engine manufacturers, some say to prefill and some say not to! If I rememer correctly Cummins says to prefill but there is at least one that says not to for fear of contamination.
Not that it matters a whole lot anyway. All oil filters have a way of bypassing oil around them in case they become plugged by dirt, and this is also usually open when the oil is cold, and at higher RPM of the engine. So a "full flow" oil filter is not really full flow at all under some conditions.
I've been changing oil the same way now for over 4 years on the 99 PSD and over a year on the PSD X, some days even changing both!
I put the pan under the oil pan nut and take off the nut then I take a scew driver/hammer and poke a hole in the oil filter and then get out from under the truck and get the new oil filter. After the old filter is removed I just put the new filter on with out wiping the area clean or adding new oil to the top of the new filter. Then put on the pan nut add oil and put the old oil in the new oil jugs.
After doing many oil changes I know right were the large oil filter wrenches are and the 19MM wrench.
not to mention the people that THINK they have 4.10's and really don't of course if you put 500,000 miles on a vehicle, i would hope they know the truth about what ratio they have. a 4.10 ratio will run 65 at 3300 in direct ratio, 1:1
well other than the fact that i bought all theese trucks brand new....except for the F250
and knew what i bought
94.5 4x4 5SP AXLE CODE:gW 4.10 limited slip, you cant get any taller with a F450 they dont make the gears for that rear end any higher.
595,169miles 235/86-16 tires about 2200 RPM in OD 65MPH
97 4x4 5SP AXLE CODE:C5
168,388miles 265/75-16 tires about 2100rpm in OD 65MPH
00 4x4 Auto AXLE CODE2 limited slip 4.10
65,340miles 265/75-16 tires about 2000rpm in OD 65MPH
heres the link to the axle codes if you dont belive that you cant get any taller than 4.10 in a F450
Now for the real answer, people make good points both directions but it certainly is a risk vs. benefit assessment. As stated by putting the filter on empty you still have oil in the bearings for the engine to start, it's just the old Slick 50 myth rearing its ugly head that makes people think otherwise. That being said it is always better to run the engine with oil pressure than without, so that is why I prefill my oil filters.
Exactly. It's your engine, and you're not going to ruin it either way, so do what you are comfortable with. Get educated, weigh your options and do what is best for your situation.
I have never pre filled the filter on my 93 bronco with the 302. the filter is almost sideways and has to be put in from above the engine (under the hood, not under the truck) and you can barely see where it threads into. It usually involves one hand on the filter, the other feeling for the threads on the side of the block to thread it to. By the time the filter was on, all the oil would be on the ground anyway. Although i did like the one comment about filling it and letting it absorb into the filter, i will have to try that. BTW, whenever i start it, i just short the starting solenoid on the firewall next to the battery, therefore causing it to just crank and not fire. after about 10 sec i use the key and fire it up and by then the oil pressure has already been built up.
Hey just a thought, but does anyone else think that we should give a metal to everyone just because they have 4.10's??? just a thought, Wait, am i in the wrong thread? I didn't know that having 4.10's means you need to pre fill it or not. And if anyone is handing out metals, i would like one because my CAT D11R will not only dig a grave for, but it will crush a d-8 anyday. oh yeah and since it take upwards of 28 gallons to fill my crankcase, i might need to find 2 more d-8's if i wanted to use there black blood in my machine for my next oil change. Actually, on the other hand, I don't think it would be worth my time only to scavange a mere 10 gallons of oil used d-8 oil, even if it did only cost 10 minutes and 9/32" of dust on my jeans. Oh wait, better save that for the my dozer is bigger than your dozer post.
I like this dozer talk. USMC 1345 (HE Operator) 6 years of running dozers in the deserts of some places you may all have heard of. I'm not going to chime in, just chuckle. Keep it coming guys, you're killing me. Give me some more about how much oil they burn and what you can dig up and burry. This is good, I don't even know why I have t.v. , this is better than any Direct TV Top 500 programing.
Exactly. It's your engine, and you're not going to ruin it either way, so do what you are comfortable with. Get educated, weigh your options and do what is best for your situation.
Another thing, sometimes the manufacturers don't know what they are talking about either. For instance I have this ISC Cummins, it says not to prefill the fuel filter, well I tried that once and I must have been an hour trying to get the daggone thing to prime again. Blamed if I'll try that again. Actually I might because I suspect it was due to a weak transfer pump (which later failed entirely) and now I suspect it is going again so I will subject myself to some further misery to see if I can get another one under warranty.
actually..........i forget which one of my cars had the filter that way, but what u do is, right before you even start draining the oil, fill the filter with oil, so by the time you need to put it on, all the oil has been absorbed, then add alittle more if necessary, add some oil to the ring, and presto! spin er' on and youll be just fine
I think we ought to set up a cage-match pitting filter-fillers against non-filter-fillers. Last man standing wins the argument! Ticket sales proceeds would benefit the site. Winner gets a case of filters and 55 gallon drum of either synthetic or dino oil. (Dare I ask which is better!?!?!)
There I was, spouting off and I hadn't even had to change the oil on my truck yet since I bought it.
But, I did change it yesterday and was surprised to see that it took nearly 2 quarts to prefill the filter (fill to threads, let it sit, fill again, repeat). Upon startup, it still took 2 seconds until the oil pressure gauge registered. At 1700 rpm, that is about 50+ revolutions of the crank and 25+ revs of the cam until pressure registered. I wonder how many seconds it takes and how many revs would occur before pressure builds with an empty filter?
I will continue to prefill as I always have with other equipment.
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