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I have a 77 f-100 and a replace the stiring colum for a 78 f-150,
works well no problem but now I run into the problem that my safety switch is is hanging because I can't find the plase to put it on.
I search and this is the concultion.
77 trucks use to have the safety switch on the stering colum acordin with the information and 78 have the safety switch on the transmition.
I look every where in the colum and the transmition and I can't find the plase for this switch.
I need some information of how I can fix the problem.
I forget to mention this switch also control my revers ligths.
Thanks
Last edited by Mil1ion; Feb 9, 2005 at 07:15 PM.
Reason: Title change to best reflect the actual TOPIC
You're right. The '77 and older have the switch mounted to the column, thus no place to mount it to the trans. The '78 and newer switch mounted to the trans, thus no place to mount it to the column. So a '78 and newer column in a '77 and older truck leaves you will no place to mount any neutral safety switch. Your options are:
1. get '73-'77 column.
2. get '78 or newer trans.
3. bypass the switch, but it will start in any gear, and you will need to wire an extra manual switch for the reverse lights.
Just a quick note, just because the 77 and older had the NSS on the column does not mean that is the only place it will work. The trans mounted switch will work fine on any 66-77 trans as they were designed for them (kind of sort of, the C6, the COM, and the C4 were all trans designed for cars and all of those had switches on the trans in some model so Ford makes the cases universal). On some models the sheft lever does not have the groove for the switch to slide on but all you have to do is calculate where the groove should be and then cut one with a dremel or small file. I have converted many and many already had the slot on the shift lever. The NSS simply fits between the kickdown lever and the shift lever and mounts to the trans case with two screws to bosses that may or may not be drilled and tapped. If the bosses are not drilled and tapped it gets uglier because you have to do it and you can't go too deep, 3/8 or so is fine). I am making this sound easy as it is to anybody who has played with this stuff but if you have no experience find a friend to help as it isn't rocket science. Hawkrod
I fund the solution over the weeked.
All i have to do was extend the shaft of the switch and mount the switch on the columb I use a small bit to do the holes, I also have to move the pasition of switch itself because the switch arm run from rigth to left and the shifter run form left to rigth so I turn the switch so it will run like the shifter and I use a case of a pen its hard and fits rigth in the arm switch, so there you go it works.