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How to test your DPFE sensor.

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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #46  
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jaywalk
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testing pre-96 DPFE


My 95 DPFE only has to leads in the connector. How do you test this, difficult to find and buy, DPFE sensor?

Old style?





7.5 f250 1995. Cant find to buy. Cant find viable test on this site.
 

Last edited by jaywalk; Jun 23, 2015 at 12:48 PM. Reason: add photo
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 01:04 PM
  #47  
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projectSHO89
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That's not the DPFE sensor, it's the EVR solenoid...

The DPFE sensor should look like this:


 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:37 PM
  #48  
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jaywalk
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Oh and im starting to get the feeling I dont have a DPFE on this truck. 95 F250 7.5.
No tubes from EGR exhaust tube and its tough to find. Still looking though.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2021 | 02:25 PM
  #49  
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Replaced but not fixed

Originally Posted by Reuel
There has been a lot of talk about the DPFE sensor going bad so I thought I would post a "how to" test the sensor. You will need a volt meter, safety pin and a 3 or 4 ft piece of hose (about 1/4" ID). If you know where the sensor is located skip to the next paragraph. Remove the black plastic cover (3 screws) exposing the throttle body and other fuel related things. Its the cover in the center of your engine that says something like 5.4L or 4.6L on it. Now the DPFE sensor has 2 rubber hoses (about 3/8" dia) coming off the bottom leading in to 2 metal tubes which are leading into a 1" metal EGR pipe coming off the exhaust manifold. On the side of the sensor is a 3-wire connector. This assembly is the DPFE sensor.
Remove the 2 rubber hoses from the bottom of the sensor. Attach a piece of rubber hose to the forward most hole in the sensor. Now carefully take a small safety pin and stick it in behind the top wire parallel to the wire. You do NOT want to pierce the wire, only make contact inside the connector. This top wire is the active feedback signal wire. It will vary from 0-5 volts or so. The middle wire is ground. The bottom wire is 5-6 volts supply. Now the top wire voltage will vary as the pressure between the two holes in the sensor varies. Set your meter to read volts, either turn the key until the accessories are on or start the engine, either way is fine. Now using your mouth apply suction to the hose and you will see the voltage change from near 0 to near 5 if you apply enough suction. The vacuum on the hose should hold your tongue and not leak. If the voltage does not vary or is stuck high or low, the sensor is bad. Do the same thing to the rear port but the voltage difference will be much less, this is the reference port.
If the sensor seems to be working then you can further test the system by doing the following. Attach the hoses to the sensor as normal. Now remove the rubber vacuum hose from the top of the EGR valve diaphragm. With the truck running apply slight vacuum to the EGR valve and this will open the EGR valve. When the valve opens you will see the voltage on the top wire of the DPFE sensor change indicating flow. When the vacuum is applied your truck should stumble or almost stall indicating the EGR valve has opened which it normally does not do at idle. I hope this helps.
I replaced the dp switch and dash light stayed off for about 25 miles and about three hours then came back on. I removed new dp with truck running light went off then reinstalled original dp light came back on shortly after. Then replaced with another dp from yet another parts house but light stayed on so I reinstalled original FoMoCo dp switch that was on truck . Of course lol ght stays on. Truck runs ok even with bad dp occasionally it pings or spark knocks but very rarely. Gas economy a lil sucky.
 
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