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I have a DrawTite, Activator II....pulling a 25' gooseneck trailer.
Here's my question and comments:
When engaging brake pedal, brakes seem to either barely engage on trailer or almost throw you thru the windshield. I have adjusting both controlls, slide switch on side and front wheel controller. With not much success.
Am I wrong in thinking the brakes should be more smooth, as the vehicles brakes, when stepping on brake pedal with different pressures.
the time delay will do that, I have one in my truck, and it applies lightly, then progressively hits harder, and if there is no load on the trailer, it will grab hard. I intend to change it, (came with the truck) just haven't taken the time yet. The inertia style is the way to go, as they apply according to how hard you apply your vehicle brakes.
I did some research before buying my Tekonsha Prodigy. It is an intertial controller that is easy to install and not to fussy about leveled.
You can find them for $100 to $140 and for me the extra few bucks over a lesser controller was worth it. Since then all of the comments from others who've tried a number of different controllers has shown that by and large the Prodigy scores the highest marks.
If the issue does turn out to be because it's a time delay controller, consider the Prodigy as a replacement.
"Draw-Tite's Activator, Activator II and Activator III Electronic Brake Controls for trailers with electric brakes apply the trailer's brakes electronically as soon as the brake pedal is engaged, unlike pendulum models which react to inertia created after the tow vehicle's brakes have already begun to stop."
Sure sounds like time-delay to me; I definitely recommend a Prodigy also!
I have the same model (Drawtite II) and havent had an issue with it. The side control is for the syn. This will set when the electric brakes come on in relation to when the pedal is pushed. 1-10 with one of those being right away strong and the other being delay then getting stronger with time. Cant remember which end is what. I have my syn at 3.0 The front rotary switch is for the strength. 1-10 again. I usuall use 1.5 for my utility trailer and might go up to 2.5 when it is fully loaded. I use 2.5-3.5 on my travel trailer. Sounds like you might have a bad controller. I had an inertia type and, for me, it didnt work to well driving on icy or snowy roads. I need to have the brakes work when the pedal was pushed. But that is a special situation. Did work well in the 4 months of summer. They both have their pros and cons.
Last edited by mlb4966; Feb 11, 2005 at 04:33 PM.
Reason: Missing info
I use to have the same problem, but I was using the lower cost ($50-60) controllers. I now have a BrakeSmart unit and it will cost about 2 times as much as the ones posted here.
It is the smoothest and safest stopping I have had in 20 years of pulling everything from livestock and equipment trailers to 32 ft 5th wheel RV's.
What I like about it the most is all the info it feeds back to me about what is happening with the braking system and the trailer electrical brake connection.
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