'96 Ranger, 4cyl, 5 speed, 2wd, factory air, 205K miles

My wife's ranger wouldn't start the other day. I got it started, but it won't idle at all, and the engine runs really rough. I know its EFI and all that, but the engine sounds like it's running on a really bad carburator...knocking, pinging, and what sounds like backfires.

When I can get the engine running, the idle fluctuates a little bit when I hold the gas pedal steady. It won't stay at a steady RPM.

I'm thinking it's a vacuum leak of some kind, but I checked all the hoses I could see and they're fine. I'm not much of a contortionist, so there could be a couple I'm overlooking.

I've seen some articles about the Idle Air Control valve...could this be the culprit?

thanks for the help!

 

I would start by checking the fuel pressure and pulling the codes, some local parts stores will do the codes for free.

 

I should have added that I can't move the truck right now, so I can't get the codes checked. The CEL doesn't come on, so I doubt there's even a code to pull.

I'm just kinda trolling for "shadetree mechanic" kind of advice before I fork over $$$ to get it towed to a shop, and then more $$$ to have them figure it out.

I want to try the simple solutions first.



Thanks again!

 

Schucks auto supply will loan you a code scanner if you put down a $200 deposit.

 

Does it run well when it's warmed up? Or is it always running rough?


My '98 4 cyl. was very tough to start cold. It wouldn't idle at all at startup. Though, when warm it ran fine. No CEL and no codes. The Mechanic eventually figured out it was the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The sensor had corroded and wasn't sending it's signal when cold...

 

Had a similar problem on my daughter's 2.3L 97 Ranger. Problem turned out to be a broken wire. I found it when I accidently bumped the main engine wiring harness that runs along the firewall and it started running correctly. I then grabbed the harness and moved it back and forth a little bit. You could duplicte the problem by moving the harness one way then immediately correct by moving it the opposited direction. I went nut trying to figure it out but 2 years and 25K miles later, no problem.

 

It sounds to me like it jumped time with the rough/no idle and backfireing one thing I can think of to check is the timing belt, it could have jumped time and they won't run for crap if they do. The other thing to check is the distribitor. Like some of the others said it sounds electrical. good luck,,,Neil

 

there can be a code with or without the CEL being on.
definatly try to get them pulled if possible. also check the vacuum at the manifold with a vacuum guage.