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Hey, I have this 95 Bronco w/351 and auto trans. I replaced the spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new rotor, cap, had the injectors cleaned, oil/filter change, and a new air filter. Also, the spark plug wires do not cross. Ever since I had this, it has had a rough idle and it sometimes acts like it's going to stall when I first pull out. Sometimes the rough idle settles out while sitting still, but it always seems to sputter under initial acceleration and it does seem to run better after it warms up. It does run smooth at higher speeds. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
search the forums, this has been a problem experienced by many. Look for the thread "Found The Holy Grail....Idle Surge Prob". I know with my 94 5.8L, I have replaced all sensors, tune up parts, etc.... The problem was solved when I removed my AIR Injection components.
Basically cap the ports in the back of the heads, and plug 2 vacuum lines and just unbolt and pull out all the hoses. You can either remove or leave the AIR pump in place. Removing it requires either a Idler bracket with pulley or a shorter belt. I have left mine in for now, but plan on removing and using a shorter belt. Before you remove the AIR injection, check your state smog laws, I have no smog in WY, but other states require The AIR injection to pass emissions inspections.
gotta becarful removing that stuff in your state. could have visual inspections that would fail you if its removed. That stuff wont affect whats happening to your rig now anyhow. I would start by checking fuel filter, also check timing with spout connector removed. should be at 10* btdc. then check for vacum leaks. those hard lines get brittle and break real easily
NO, dont take it to the dealer. they all suck, find a reputible auto shop it will less expensive and more honest. do this yourself, dont get scared. do you have a haynes manual and any questions you have just post here thats what this forum is for.
OK, I get the message. Yes, I do have a Haynes Ford Bronco manual. You are dead right about the dealer reaming their customers.
My problem isn't quite like what 80Bronco94 was talking about. My idle deosn't fluctuate much at all. Just when I give it the gas, it seems to hesitate and feels like it's going to die, but then powers up and goes like it should. The idle is rough at first and I have to give it the gas to get it to smooth out. Even then the idle is rough but much better than it was.
OK, I looked up the TPS in Haynes and I beleive it is the Throttle Position Sensor. What I read didn't say about cleaning a dirty tps, just replacing it. Do I need to buy this item at the dealer?
I'm with KB, based on your symptoms sounds like a gunked up TPS. You can get one from most parts stores like NAPA, Autozone, or Bumper to Bumper. You can get one from the dealer if you want to pay 30-40 percent more for the same part. If you are going to replace yours you need to make sure it is set properly, so you will need a voltmeter to set the baseline. I believe the settings are in the Haynes manual, if not the numbers are on the Throttle Body upgrade page on my website. Not hard to do, but you will need to buy a Throttle Body gasket when you buy the TPS. Trying to replace the sensor with the TB installed has been known to cause heart attacks, strokes, broken tools from throwing them, broken other stuff due to the impact of thrown tools, etc...
OK, I finally replaced the TPS. It runs more smoothly when it is warmed up, but I still have the rough idle at start-up and it takes a few minutes after revving it up to get it to smooth out. If I put the car in drive and take off, it still stutters and spits like it's going to die. Since my last post, I have also replaced the following:
EGR valve
EGR Valve Position sensor
IAC motor
PCV filter
Oxygen sensor
Cannister Purge Valve
Does anyone have any further ideas about what to chnage out? Thanks.
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