It is a 428 super cobra jet. He verbally told me some specs, but I am going to pick up the blueprint when I go pick up everything else. He has special racing heads, oversized valves and cam, stroked crank. The oddest thing he said was that unless we use lead substitute in the gas, it will blow a hole in the piston. I didn't think that lead affected anything but old valve seals. Considering the value of a 428 cobra jet, more or less the super cobra jet, I would much rather get just a plain 460 and drop down in it. I am averaging 3mpg, which seems awful bad looking at your truck.

I am guessing that there just isn't much talent in the area. This truck isn't that big really, yet it is the largest in the area by a good 6".

I did a search on the forums and on google for drop hangers and found nothing for this year. Do you know where I can find them?

On the special springs, how much do these things usually run (and where can I find them?)? It has 1 ton springs with overloads now.

Does using drop hangers affect the twisting of the rear end any? Right now, the rear end is completely solid, even when burning out (a complete accident, but still somewhat funny ). For some reason, I get the idea that dropping the hangers down will cause it to twist more. Also, would I be able to reuse the stabilizer bars I currently have (and are they any good)?

I read some on the crossover steering. I found a kit for a whopping $750. There is a drag link/pitman arm problem on this. However, if I just get a drop pitman arm (and thus take the tension off of the drag link), would that help the steering? I would like to do everything in the kit eventually, including moving the tierods up top, but that is out of my front end budget range at the moment.

I just did some looking at your truck. Are you using special springs in the rear? It looks that your shackle isn't that big for making an 18" lift all by itself. What is that thing you welded the shackles too in the back? What you have there looks good, a lot better than what I have seen around the net. I wouldn't mind copying yours if I knew exactly what you did. How did you get away with not using the stabilizer rack thing on the axle?

In the front of your truck it looks like you have a piece of steel dropping down from the frame that your front shackles are welded to. Is that all you did in the front, minus the crossover steering? I haven't paid any attention, but I can bet that I have blocks in the front also.

 

For the crossover steering you will need a high steering arm for your dana 60 (new they cost 100 bucks, but they can be had for cheaper on ebay), then you will need to make (or take measurements and search the wreckers for something thats the right lenght) or have made a tie rod going from the new steering arm to the pitman arm, and if you don't have one you will need a dropped pitman arm (summit has pro comps arms for around 60 bucks). 750 bucks is way to much when you can piece it together for around a couple hundred bucks.

A shackle flip and dropped hangers will be far more stable then the blocks, as the twisting force is multiplied by the blocks, where as drop brackets distribute the force better because they twisting force isn't multiplied as much. And these can be built very strong, and there is around a half the force on the dropped bracket when compared to the lift blocks. You will probably have to make these yourself or have a shop do it as well, as i don't think there are many places that would sell these.

As for the springs i'm not to sure on the price, but maybe Ivan can chime in on how much his cost him.

 

Here's an idea.

Go to google and do a search for "scary steering" (the website you're looking for will be one of the first, with "taco" somewhere in the URL). If you have dial-up, some of the pics will take a while. But navigate the scary suspension and steering pictures (lower left of homepage) and you'll get a feel of what NOT to do. Plenty of lift blocks and steering setups that should be 'crossover'.

You mentioned rigid rear end...yeah, it should be. Ladder bars that move in an arc and leaf springs that basically move straight up and down. You won't have much travel at all. I do agree that you don't notice the leverage effect on your rear axle....but lose one of those ladder bars and I guarantee you'll be separating the slip joint on your rear driveshaft (been there, done that). Anyhoo, give that website a looksee.

Cody

EDIT: Foul language, not safe for kids or work.

 

Here's the link he's talking about:

http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html

 

Just checked out your gallery.

You've got a D44HD in the front (external hubs).
My money says a D60HD in the rear (can't tell in pics, but will have extra gusset ribs across centersection).
Cody

 

Yea, I don't like making calls from just pics but my thoughts was that it WAS the stock drivetrain, as in front 44 rear 60. I'm starting to think the guy that sold you this was a shyster. I'd run the numbers on the motor to make sure its indeed a 428scj. You can also check the stroke for quick reassurance. I'll supply the ammo if it turns out to be the stock 360 with bolt on goodies.

Now, if it IS a 428scj that is a RARE find. Very cool. You are right in that its worth coin. Something must be wrong with your (carb?) if your only getting 3mpg though. I don't care what the motor is.

He mentioned the lead substitute not only for the valve seats, but because the lead substitutes (at least the old ones) raised the octane value. If thats the scj your at @ 10.5:1 compression. The reference to damaging your pistons was regarding detonation due to too much compression for low octane gas.

My springs are just off an F-350. I did my lift ala' the original Bigfoots, using drop hangers for the springs rather than stacked blocks are "banana" springs. I fabricated all my own stuff so I can't tell you where to buy it. I do know that Sky Manufacturing makes at least your rear shackle flip and the have good stuff. I think Mustang covered the others suspension stuff. You have a nice looking Ford and it shouldn't take too much to get it whipped into shape. You'll need to retain your rear ladder bars with a high hp motor...although you should ditch the rigid ones you have now. Rather, some using a slip joint (such as I make and use...offroad design also sells them but wants $1100) or the more common type that uses a shackle design (sams offroad sells them) will keep your axle wrap under control but allow articulation. Hope all this helped and keep us posted about what you find out about your rig.

 

It is a low pinion front axle. If you save the picture of the front axle and increase the brightness, it becomes quite apparent. I think all 75's came with enclosed knuckle front axles, but I can't tell what his is from the picture...

 

I did that measure test and the rear axles comes to 3". I talked to the guy who built the truck today. He didn't know what the axles were, but that they were 4:10 gearing and 35 splines. I looked and he did the front axles as you suggested, using drop hangers. There aren't any blocks in the front axle.

I don't know why he didn't do that to the back.

That I did do when I was looking to replace the carb. The truck was built 11 years ago. The guy I bought the truck off of said it was a 429. Then again, that guy screwed up the truck big time.

It is a 1000 holly doublepumper. It is blowing gas all over the top of the intake, which is why I am looking to replace it with something a little smaller. I haven't taken it off and really inspected it yet, but it looks like those racing hollys I have seen for sale at around $800. If it is, I may just rebuild it because of its value.

That is the bad one, isn't it?

I got the pics from him when he built it (and the pics from which he then buried to up past the bumpers). I didn't know he wrecked it right after he built it, which is why the front end is odd for a 75. It is actually a 78 front steering, his reasoning was to do away with the power assist. When I get some of them scanned I will post them.

I don't think this is nearly as bad as some of the stuff posted on that site. Once I get the steering fixed and the truck drivable, I will then work on the rear axle. I am not sure what kind of shafts are on the rear axle (I will look when I do the rear end), but since it is 35 spline, I feel decent about it. If I can find one cheap enough, I will swap it out. I suppose that since it is the low pinion front axle I should replace it.

What is utterly amazing is that the guy who built this truck (not the kid, even more clueless than me, who I got it off of) builds these trucks as a career. He says that he has 12K in this truck, which is probably pretty close since he had to replace the doghouse and cab when he wrecked it, along with the rebuild of the 428, tires, and everything else. He has some pretty neat mudding pics which I may upload for fun.

Here I thought you couldn't get this truck stuck .

 

So its not a dana 70, most likely the stock dana 60. Yea, its a bummer about that front axle, but good to hear he didn't use blocks in the front.

I'm running a Holley 950hp (the race model) double pumper. I get a solid 6mpg, you should be able to get at least that.

Its crazy how many guys are building stuff "professionally" thats not up the standards of some people who builds stuff in their backyard. With all the fab shows currently I bet you'll see even more hacks starting up a fabrication business. Speaking of that, I plan on running one on the side when I get my shop

Anything can get stuck. Trust me

 

I'm curious by the way, I notice you list your motor as putting out exactly "612" horsepower. Where did you get this figure?

Also, was it ever explained to you why you have no front shackles? You have brackets welded directly to your frame that your spring connects to...crazy stuff.

Finally, does your intake manifold extend part way beneath your valve covers, or does your intake manifold set between your valve covers?

 

Jezus Christ you guys are ball busters. For what he's doing the D44/D60 combo will work out just fine. I've seen guys run as big as 53's on that drivetrain with no problems so the 49" IROKs would work great and be safe to run with those axles. The rear blocks won't be a problem as long as you have the ladder bars in there. I wouldn't recommend jumping the truck with those blocks if you ever take the ladder bars off though . . . it could be dangerous. I don't know if a drop pitman arm will hang down far enough for your lift, especially if you go with 49's. What you can do though is take your stock pitman arm and cut it in half. Weld a 12" piece of rebar between the 2 halves or if you don't need a full 12" you could make it shorter. This will hang the lower half of the pitman arm down enough to reach the axle.

That engine sounds hella sweet. Have you ever looking into NOS for it? You could add a 400 shot and have a 1000 horsepower engine. That would be enough to spin those 49's FAST with your 4.10 gears. You could get through ANY mudpit!

 

For a second I thought I was reading a reply on Ford truck world...

 

has someone been hitting the jack stands again?

 

I think you might be onto something there rob.

 

You're right. He should probably stick to a 250 shot as he's already running so much horsepower. It'll actually come out to more than 250 horse extra. The 400 shot would end up pushing that thing to like 1400 horse and I think that would be hard on his drivetrain.