Neverdone
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From: Rep. of Texas
Neverdone
Hey NEverdone I was wondering if you could email me you shckleflip pictures?
You said you had a way to compensate for the 3" to 3.5" taper without forging...I was just wondering how you did this.
Thanks...
You said you had a way to compensate for the 3" to 3.5" taper without forging...I was just wondering how you did this.
Thanks...
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: British Columbia
Hey there, sorry it's taken so long to get back to ya. I'm having a heck of time with internet. My e-mail is still not really working yet so I can't e-mail out, only receive(sometimes). I've been contimplating a few differint shackles, 1 would have u channel welded to rectangular pipe, but i've also been noting that the rear shackle is the proper widths, woukd just have to be slightly modified - new hole for spring space about 3 1/2" from bushing hole, maybe a cross peice for support. - what ya think
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From: Rep. of Texas
Are you saying the Shackle off of the rear axle? Sounds like a good idea, I never thought of that. I was just going to go get a pair of newer 4x4 front shackles off and 01-04, but that will do.
For the front hangers of the front axle, I dont wuite follow, but heres what I think and you could possibly mean: a piece of C channel that measure 3" inside and about 3 1/2" outside (1/4" thick) with another piece welded to the bottom of it that has 3 1/2" inside width and aslo 1/4" thick (pieces would be welded and then reinforced, and a crossmember/subframe too)
For the front hangers of the front axle, I dont wuite follow, but heres what I think and you could possibly mean: a piece of C channel that measure 3" inside and about 3 1/2" outside (1/4" thick) with another piece welded to the bottom of it that has 3 1/2" inside width and aslo 1/4" thick (pieces would be welded and then reinforced, and a crossmember/subframe too)
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: British Columbia
For the front hangers i am thinking that i'm going to use square tubing (3" x3')the same length as the outside of the frame, the weld a flat plate (1/4" thick)to the outside of the square tubing (full height from top of frame to spring mounting hole) and a flat plate welded the thickness off the frame away from the outside plate to be used to bolt it to the frame like a sandwich. to finish off the spring hanger part i was going to use 3 1/4" angle welded to the square tubing and butted into the outside plate to create a upside down u, this is were the spring will mount. A couple gussets and it should be plenty strong. You have to remenber to make a new location bracket for your tracking bar too. I've already built one for mine because of the 4" lift springs, I'll have to build another one for the extra lift. How about a drop pitman arm, Do you have one? i have a 4" drop arm, they say it shoulde be goo upto 7" of lift. What tires ya gonna run. I'm triing to deside betwwen dick cepek f-c II or cooper stt's. 37/13/17
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From: Rep. of Texas
Im going either 8" or 10" (only 4" of shackle) and Michelin XLs in either 40" or 46" cant decide...but also depends on the clearance once the lift is on...
I think I may try to do either crossover steering or get a 6" drop pitman arm, depending on how much lift that can handle. If it cant handle 10" then Ill fab a drag link myself out of some beefy DOM.
I think I may try to do either crossover steering or get a 6" drop pitman arm, depending on how much lift that can handle. If it cant handle 10" then Ill fab a drag link myself out of some beefy DOM.
