My '85 F250 has developed an annoying problem. When you turn the key to start it, the gear that engages the push rod that moves the switch appears to jump teeth, preventing it from starting. I pulled the column cowl off and clamped a vice grips onto the rod for a while, to push it by hand. However, the rod eventually got bent, the switch broke, and now the switch just dangles below the dash. I move it with a screwdriver to start it. Ugly.

I pulled the lock mechanism out, but it engages something inside the column that I couldn't see how to get at. This is a tilt-wheel column.

Any repair suggestions? Just replace the whole column, or is it advisable to tear it apart? Maybe somebody knows an easier fix?

Thanks,

-Mark

'85 F250 4WD 460
'85 Yamaha XJ700 Maxim
'83 Mustang convertible on blocks

 

Anybody? Anybody at all?

Maybe someone has a shop manual that shows an exploded diagram of the column?

-Mark

'85 F250 4WD 460
'85 Yamaha XJ700 Maxim
'83 Mustang convertible on blocks

 

That rod actuates the neutral safety switch.

Sometimes they wear out and quit doing their job.

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[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]
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My neighbor and I tore his 89 apart last summer for the same problem. We removed the steering wheel, turnsignal switch, and a snap ring under the switch. Then we were able to get the sliding part out that actuated the rod. Just a little piece of white metal. He ordered it at the dealer. Having the tilt column, this piece tilts with the wheel and ignition switch, and pushes on the straight rod that goes down to the ignition switch. It was my first time (with a tilt column LOL) and it wasn't that hard to do. He ended up driving it, starting it with a screwdriver, for a few days until the part came in, but it wasn't too bad to do.

 

I got My truck from my father,85 F250, He may have had the same problem because he rigged a start button. 2 wires going to the starter solenoid, a button on the dash. Turn the key to on, hit the button and it starts.When I first got the truck I thought that was the first thing I was going to change. Now I kinda like it. Maybe it will help with your problem, It will crank in any gear it also makes a good antitheft device. Most manuals show a method for setting up a remote cranknig button, just adapt that to the dash.

 

Bill, thanks very much! That's quite helpful. I'll check that out as soon as I get time.

Martin, good suggestion. I actually ran with it like this for a while, until the underdash switch broke. Due to where I placed the button, though, I'd hit it unintentionally sometimes while driving, which was a pain.

Thanks,

-Mark

'85 F250 4WD 460
'85 Yamaha XJ700 Maxim
'83 Mustang convertible up on blocks

"If a man speaks, and no woman hears him, is he still wrong?"

 

See if this sounds like a similar problem. I have a 1989 1 ton FWD crew cab. It had been getting hard to turn the ignition all of the way over. One day the truck started dieing on me. Then it would not start. Then it would only go into reverse. I figured out how to get it to start by pushing on the pushrod that is parallel to the steering column. But, I still can not get it to go into drive. The ford dealer recommended a part that hooks into the pushrod. I tried to get the steering wheel off, but I do not have a puller. I guess I have multiple problems. Do you have any ideas where to start? Thanks

 

Carr,

Your truck is newer than mine, so I don't know if the column is much different. It sounds to me like something is jammed in the column related to the pushrod. The shifter isn't supposed to interact with that except to lock in park when the key is off. I'd start looking at the mechanical lock cylinder, and go from there. Diagnosis isn't my best thing, but once I've identified a problem, I'm pretty good at fixing it.

You can rent steering wheel pullers from the auto parts store, I think.

I've made a steering wheel puller out of a piece of metal about 1 1/2" by 3", 1/4" thick. Drill a couple of holes in it that match the spacing of the two bolts that thread into the steering wheel on either side of the spindle. The holes should be large enough to let the bolts spin freely. Then get a couple of longer bolts that match the thread, and screw them into the wheel through the puller. As you crank the bolts down, they'll pull the wheel off by pushing against the spindle. The bolt length needs to be just right... or use some washers if it's too long.

I still haven't fixed my problem. My kid's been borrowing my truck for the past month, so I don't have it to work on. He's had to put another switch in, because the AC current appears to be burning it out. *sigh*. I suppose I'll have to put a relay in to fix that...

[i][font color=red]-Mark[i]

[font color=green]'85 F250 4WD 460
'85 Yamaha XJ700 Maxim
'83 Mustang convertible up on blocks

[font color=blue][i]"If a man speaks and no woman hears him, is he still wrong?"[i]