86 F150 302-Need help understanding code scanner
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Thanks for the info guys, ive done most everything you suggested but i dont have a noid light, but i think i read in one of my books that i could use a non digital voltmeter to test the injectors. I just need to watch the needle bounce while i turn it over, which brings me to the next problem....yesterday while i was trying to "bump" my engine to TDC to check my timing the darn starter quit working on me. hopefully its just a loose connection or starter relay, but with my luck it'll be the starter. So when that happened i knew i was done for the day. Well thanks again guys, im gonna get myself motivated and then begin day 5 of my Ford project. I'll post with the results.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
I've allready done that and they're fine, i'm starting to lean towards my computer, or my fuel pressure regulator being bad now. i was hoping it wouldnt come down to this but by the process of elimination those are the only two things it could be unless i'm missing something. Anyone got any more suggestions? I would greatly appreciate it, thanks for your help everyone. I'm glad i found this web site.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: Mid-Missouri
You may have already checked your grounds, but so had I about six months ago.
The grounds are critical and it seems paramount on this era of Ford Truck.
Ended up replacing my grounds. There was not visible damage until I got the grounds off of the truck and looked them over. The damage was under the insulation. Corrosion inside the insulation jacket. Cables replaced = no more starting problems
The grounds are critical and it seems paramount on this era of Ford Truck.
Ended up replacing my grounds. There was not visible damage until I got the grounds off of the truck and looked them over. The damage was under the insulation. Corrosion inside the insulation jacket. Cables replaced = no more starting problems
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
i've cleared the codes and still got the code 18. I just cant believe i cant get any life out of it what-so-ever. No sputter, not even a wimper. How common is it for the computer to go out? As for the grounds ive removed and cleaned with emory paper and the contact surfaces too and still nothing. Since fuel regulators are cheap i'll buy one and see what happens.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 67
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If your still getting a code 18 even after you cleared them then you need to replace the TFI module, and Stator. Then re-time the engine. This does not sound like a fuel problem.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
you could be right about the stator, thats the only thing that i havent replaced yet. the TFI is new though. its just gonna have to wait till tomorrow, its way passed beer thirty. thanks
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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Yeah replace your stator, I had a hell of a time getting the gear on the end off, I ended up breaking it so I picked up a reman distributor from napa, as a matter of fact I have a Ford Stator brand new that I have no use for since the one from napa came with a stator. If you want it lemme know.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
thanks mdstud. i replaced it yesterday and still nothing. but....i tested my fuel pressure again today (with key on engine off) then i grounded the fuel pump so it would run. i ran it for about 20 seconds and it maxed out at 30 pounds. as soon as i shut the pump down the pressure dropped to zero. shouldnt it hold for a little while? so what exactly does that mean? thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 6
From: Parkesburg PA
It should stay up there, but mine did the same thing after I replaced the regulator, filter and HP pump. I've since replaced the canister filter and LP pump, but I havn't tested the pressure or if it stays up.
The fuel pressure should be 35 - 41, but it should run at 30. Mine didn't start to run bad until under 20 - 25.
Have you tried spaying ether (Starting fluid) into the intake?
The fuel pressure should be 35 - 41, but it should run at 30. Mine didn't start to run bad until under 20 - 25.
Have you tried spaying ether (Starting fluid) into the intake?
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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If it won't hold pressure then it's usually either the pressure regulator, or the check valve in the high pressure pump. To see if its the regulator you can pinch off the return line and see if it holds pressure. Also how did you clear your error codes?
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
well, the regulator is new so i doubt thats the problem, i guess maybe the high pressure pump could be going bad. when i was testing the fuel pressure i grounded the pump with the diagnostic connector and ran it for about twenty to thirty seconds to make sure i got the max pressure and as soon as i let off the fuel pump the pressure dropped immediatly back to zero. when i first turned the key to the on position and the pump kicked on, it didnt show any built up pressure like it should. is there a certain pressur needed to in the fuel rail for the injectors to open?