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Well, i don't know for sure! But based on the cover, it said Made in Italy and the cover apprears Red so I assume: it could be a Red head!
BTW, i just have a full brake service about 7k miles ago. Now the rotor appears warp. The mech. says I need new rotor. Can i reuse the pads?
Thank you
The last ones I got from NAPA, and they are directional rotors. Haven't put a lot of miles on them, I'll need to check the repair order to see what the mileage was on the change. They seem to be holding up well.
I'll echo what everyone else is saying, too. Go buy a decent torque wrench, that seems to make the biggest difference, from everything I've read. I started using one when I got my wheels, I think it makes a difference.
Are these original rotors? How many miles have you had on them? What kind of driving do you do? Around town, highway, lots of towing? If you are doing just light duty driving and the rotors don't have a lot of miles on them, I'd have them turned. Once is OK but I wouldn't have them turned twice.
AeroPA is absolutely right about buying a torque wrench. Also, do the tire rotation yourself. I bought my tires from Sam's club and I brought my van there to have the tire rotation done every 6000 miles (two oil changes). Usually it's OK, but the last guy didn't use the torque wrench and he promptly warped my rotors. Very annoying when someone does that.
Besides proper torque being critical to rotor longevity, another commonly overlooked reason for rotor warpage are the caliper slides. Grit and dust accumulate among those machined edges and companion pins. Instead of both pads fully retracting when the brake pedal is released, one pad can partially stick against the rotor face, generating considerable heat as you motor along. Such uneven heating can ultimately lead to warpage. Evidence of this is when one pad is noticeably thinner than its mate - or worse - when the pedal starts giving you a foot massage again.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Feb 3, 2005 at 04:26 PM.
The manuals I have for my AWD say to torque the lugs to 100 lb-ft, which seems to be higher than any other car I've had (no trucks though), and I had thought that torque was not as critical with steel wheels and conical seat lug nuts.
How long for the warping to manifest itself If the lugs are over torqued?
The problem arises when the torque is unevenly applied to the lugs, e.g. 85 ft/lb on one and 100 fl/lbs on an adjacent lug. Time to warpage depends on driving style, but you could reasonably expect it to occur within 60 days for those with normal driving habits.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Feb 3, 2005 at 05:05 PM.
Let me add another vote for properly torquing the lug nuts. In the last 15 years I have not allowed any tire shop to install wheels on any vehicle I have driven. I have not had any rotors warp in the last 15 years, either.
When I was a student I drove a Ford LTD that used to belong to my mother. She regularly had problems with warped rotors and so did I. When I found out that overtorqued lug nuts were the prime cause of warping rotors on those particular cars, I started torquing them myself. All the warped rotor problems disappeared.
Now I would rather take the wheels off my vehicles at home and roll them across town to the tire shop than let some yahoo with an impact gun tighten the lug nuts, because I know I'd end up with warped rotors in a couple of months.
Since the LTD, I have owned two GM's and the Aerostar. I have not had a problem with warped rotors on any of these vehicles.
will the newer directional rotors fit on my 89? if so, i guess i should as for a 92 aero's rotors?
Yes, the newer directional rotors should work fine (better) on the older cars. I'm using the 1992 and up directional rotors on my 1990 van, and they're working better than anything else that's ever been on the van. Unfortunately, I can't remember the brand, and I've long ago tossed the boxes they came in. I'll have to look for the receipt to see where they came from.
Also if you have trouble loosening the central rotor nut with your ordinary ratchet invest in a breaker bar my 18" 1/2" drive cost me $10.00 autozone. Which I originally needed to loosen the torque plate to steering knuckle bolts on my car and later the rotor bolt on my Aero.
And I haven't regreted purchasing it since. Be sure to use 1/2" drive sockets on your bar and purchase them as necessary. Don't use a wimpy 1/2" to 3/8" coverter either on a breaker bar you'll shear it right in two with minimal effort with all this added leverage you need more muscle if you will in your sockets.
But you can use your 3/8" sockets to distinguish the bolt size then buy the appropriate 1/2" counterpart.
A torque wrench however is always your friend if your tight for cash get a $14.00 deflecting bar type and tighten your tire lugs to the right torque.
Here is a diagram for removing the rotor also be sure to check the outer bearing and replace if necessary.
Good Luck .
Last edited by krankshaft; Feb 5, 2005 at 04:25 AM.
The problem arises when the torque is unevenly applied to the lugs, e.g. 85 ft/lb on one and 100 fl/lbs on an adjacent lug. Time to warpage depends on driving style, but you could reasonably expect it to occur within 60 days for those with normal driving habits.
I saw that happen on mine a couple of years ago, and I always chalked it up to to inferior rotors, or undersized front brake design. Up until recently, I didn't use a torque wrench on my lugs, just tightened them so they "felt about right". Unfortunately, I'm strong enough to twist lugs off with a 4 way, so that's not really a good way to go. Sometimes, it *really* does require some finesse to do things properly.
Once I got new wheels, and they came with a big disclaimer about making sure they were torqued properly, I became a new convert. Use a torque wrench on them all the time now, and haven't had any rotor problems since.
I came across some info on the net discussing those "torque sticks" used by tire shops. They can vary quite a bit in accuracy, so I wouldn't trust them, either. My tire guy always uses a torque wrench to do the final tightening.
Great information guys, I was using a impact wrench to tighten my lug nuts down. Next time I'll definitly put my Craftsman torque wrench on them and tighten to specification. I still think it pays to buy quality brake parts though.
Theres a good reason why brake and muffler shops offer lifetime warranty's on mufflers and brake pads. They use cheap parts and know you'll have to replace rotors or exhaust pipes everytime you go in.
On one of my cars when I used to have brakes done a long time ago they didn't even install wear indicators I had no choice but to drive home after work while listening to the grinding and looked at it in my garage the inner drivers side pad was totally gone and the backing plate totally screwed my rotor.
I'm sure the brake shop I used to take it to did it on purpose so you are forced to replace both the brakes and rotors everytime. I installed them and did the proper job a pad and rotor job even though if the shop did THEIR JOB it could have been avoided so now I will get a kind warning next time before they wear completely.
I guess thats what prompts me to do all this work myself I know its getting done properly .
Last edited by krankshaft; Feb 5, 2005 at 11:23 AM.