I have read different places on the proper order to make the four connections with a jumper cable. The last one is supposed to be the ground connection on the car with the dead battery. Then after you got the car started, disconnect the clamps in the reverse order. It's easy to see why you would want to make the last connection away from the negative terminal of the battery, because there is hydrogen gas given off when it is being charged. (The recommended place according to the mechanics of the company where I used to work was the alternator bracket). But why would you want to make the last (first, when removing) connection on the dead battery? (Actually, I'm more concerned about removing the clamp). It would be the one being charged and therefore the one giving off the most explosive gas.

Just as a safety tip, I knew a mechanic who had a battery explode when he jerked the connections loose before shutting off the charger. Fortunately, he was right beside the bathroom and was able to find the sink while he was temporarily blinded. He escaped without serious damage, but the thickness of his cornea was reduced. Don't know if it will regenerate over time or not.

TIA, Brady

 

As far as i know it goes positives on first, good to bad, then negative on the good, and ground on either the block, or a bolt, or something on the dead car. Thats how I've been taught, and it worked the other day. so yeah.

 

That's how I've always done it as well.

 

Is this way acceptable to computer controlled cars? I seem to remember there was a "special" way with cars/trucks with computer systems (early to mid 80's).
Glenn

 

you know, vehicles come with "user manuals," much like your new DVD player does and there is a whole bunch of info there.

 

With any computer controlled vehicle, I've always let the battery take a charge, removed the cables and then start the vehicle. If it does not start, hook the cables back up and charge the battery some more and try again but always removing the cables first.

I've heard of hundreds of dollars of computer and related sensors getting fried by leaving the cables hooked up while cranking the dead vehicle.

 

I have never had that happen after 20 different jumps on a 1989 Olds, 92 F150, 84 K10, 97 Geo Metro, 99 Malibu, and 97 Mini-van. I use the cigarette method. Hook up positive on good battery, positive on bad battery, neg on good battery, neg on alternator bracket. Let it charge the time it takes to smoke a cigarette, since I don't, about 10 min. Then start the dead car, never failed yet.

 

I jumped a 92 escort the other day, i have jumped in the past a 91 talon, 95 camaro, 97 neon, my 94 ranger, and an 88? s10 and an 80's buick century, don't know what year exact, it was an 80's model. Used the same method I stated above, and removed in the order of last to first.

 

Hmm... while this may be possible, I've jump-started many computer controlled cars and trucks (Japanese, American, German...) over the years and have never seen this happen...

 

I didn't expect to see that people are doing it the way the owner's manual reccommends. On average I end up jump starting a car about once a week. Mostly Fords but occasionally something else. We always just hook them up in whatever order. Mostly each guy takes the two ends and hooks them to the battery in any order. The cars have quite a bit of electronics in them (which is why the batts. drain all the time) and I haven't learned of a problem yet. I usually try to turn off some of the equiptment but sometimes I don't and I'm pretty sure most of the other guys don't. Maybe I've just been lucky so far.

 

Where I actually "heard" of the electronics being fried is from a personal friend of over 30 years who has had his own repair shop since the 60's. I don't remember the specific vehicle, he told me it was at the airport, parked in the extend parking and the battery went dead. They hooked up cables, let charge for a few minutes and then tried to start the vehicle. The result was a tow to the shop and almost $700 in parts and labor to change the fried components. He said it was not the first time he'd seen and won't be the last. Since then I have chosen to err on the side of caution when jump starting anything, especially if it's not my own vehicle.

 

i believe the correst procedure is
1. turn off stereos, amps, and anything else you have on
2. +on dead battery
3. +on good battery
4. -on good battery
5. -as far as possible from dead battery on frame/engine etc away from moving parts.
6. rev the donor vehicle to provide a good charge
7. start the dead vehicle
*if it wont start, turn off key, wait a miniute and try again
8. turn on heaters, defrost, etc to protect the computer against a power spike etc.
9. remove jumper cables in opposite order of putting them on (step 5, 4, 3, 2)
10. turn off the everything you can to minimize the current draw and keep the vehicle running for awile

 

i'm in the same boat with you man... just lucky I gues usally it just me jumping and usally I hook both + - on good battery then the same on dead battery.. maybe I should watch out from now on huh?

 

We jumped many company vans and never had a problem with using the owners manual guide lines. Then we had a computer, radio, and alarm system fried in a van. Later on we checked the parking lot security camera digital images. Its plain as day he hooked up the host battery reverse polarity.

 

I prefer to own and use a booster pack whenever possible. This way there is no chance of electrical damage to a host vehicle. Always look and then turn your head away or wear safety glasses when connecting and disconnecting cables, in case of an explosion.