I'm getting ready to change the oil in my Ranger and wondered if it matters if the front of the truck is up on ramps when I go to drain the old oil out? Will I have a problem with it not being level or should it all come on out? I know at the express lube places they have them up on the lifts that keep the vehicle level. Also does anyone have any helpful hints on getting the oil filter off without losing too much hair? I'd like to do this work myself as I am really enjoying messing around with this truck more than any other vehicle I've had since my 72 Mustang back in college.

2000 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab
V6 3.0L Vulcan FF Auto
Airbox Mod, Hot Water Bypass, Flowmaster 40s,
180 Deg Thermostat, K&N HiPerformance Airfilter

 

I like to keep em level or tilted in a way that makes the drain hole the lowest point. On the other hand, the itty bitty quantity of oil that remains if it's not level is pretty small compared to the total it holds so over the long haul it probably would not matter much. I just like to drain every drop I can get when I do mine; I'm maybe too fussy.

 

Yeah, I'd like to get as much of the old out as possible as I am planning to make the switch over to Mobil1 synthetic from regular dino oil so I figured I'd need to get it as close to empty as poissible even though there's not supposed to be any problem with some mixing of the two. Should I consider one of those flush additives before I make the change or just go ahead and make the jump?

2000 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab
V6 3.0L Vulcan FF Auto
Airbox Mod, Hot Water Bypass, Flowmaster 40s,
180 Deg Thermostat, K&N HiPerformance Airfilter

 

I've heard good and bad things about synthetic oils. Most often (thanks, dad), that unless you're under 10K on a new vehicle, it's not good to switch to fully synthetic. At something around 50K I switched to a Motorcraft synthetic blend and it works just fine. It's only $1.89/qt so I'm not that concerned with the cost, since I go through at least 20k every year. Well, more like 30k every year. Anyway... Mobil1 is way expensive... I assume you're no 18 year old kid or anything, but keep in mind you can't just put something else in it if you don't have enough to afford the Mobil1 at some point. That said...
I don't elevate mine at all when I change my oil. There is very little left over, and what is *probably* isn't going to make a huge difference in performance. If you decide to do it, you might try pouring a little of the new synthetic all the way through to try to take some of the old stuff out. I can't promise that'll work, but it's an idea. I'd be really hesitant to "flush" my engine, but maybe that's just me.
As for your oil filter... are you using your mouth or something? Taking off hair... I just use an oil filter wrench I got at AutoZone or someplace and it's *really* easy. What hair does it take off?

 

So I'd be best going with a synthetic blend rather than full synthetic since I've got 59k on the engine?

Also from what I've heard the oil filter is in a pretty tough place to get to unless you're double jointed.

 

I know a guy who put synthetic in a motor with over 100k. His was fine, but as my dad puts it, it's a case-by-case sort of thing. I think synthetic blend would be less risky, but I'd bet you could find 20 people who would say they put Mobil1 in their car as an older vehicle and it worked just fine.
The oil filter wrench I have is angled a little bit, so it only takes a little wrist-twisting to get the filter off. I just scoot under my truck and reach... it's right there. Mine's a 4cyl. though... could be different with the 6s. You should locate the filter on your truck and see if it's in a good location.

 

On the 3.0L ranger motor, the drain plug is at the back side of the pan. So if the front wheels are up on ramps, it may drain better. I just changed the oil in my girlfriends 3.0L ranger yesterday. I found it easier to get to the filter from over the driver side fender. You shouldn't need a wrench, unless somebody put it on too tight. I never use a wrench to take any of my oil filters off. Remember they're only supposed to be hand tight. I live in southern CA though. Cold weather may make it harder to take them off??

 

Hey Buzzsaw, you and I have the same set-up...there is a little plastic funnel underneath the oil filter that keeps the oil from dripping on the starter...be real careful it's not too sturdy. I almost broke mine. BTW I always just leave the truck level.

 

Where does the plastic funnel drain to? Is it something extra I need to catch or will the pan under the drain plug be enough?

 

It's just that whenever you change the filter a little bit of oil always leaks out around it. Since the filter is over the starter it's a good thing, keeps the starter clean and dry. I've always used two drain pans on all of my vehicles for this very reason...one under the plug, one under the filter. I know it's not a lot of oil but I would just as soon keep it off my driveway. :-) I guess one pan would do if it were big enough...never thought about it.

 

One more thing, change your oil after driving and motor is warmed up. It will drain better and get more contaminants out. Also I like to fill new filter with oil before screwing it back on. Easy for vertical install, but I only go about 3/4 full and screw it on fast on the horizontal app's.

 

So do you think it would be a good idea to change with a cheap synthetic blend, cheap filter and drive it say a week, and then go with a premium synthetic blend or full synthetic and new filter to help clean out the older dino oil and prepare the engine and parts for the new oil?

 

Okay, I'll tell you what I have come to understand/believe about synthetic oils... I could be wrong, keep in mind. If anybody knows otherwise, please feel free to post, I hate mis-informing people... okay. Moving on...
Over time your engine will develop small cracks and crevices that are filled with old oil and its impurities. Changing to synthetic, since it's got less impurities and it's thinner etc., doesn't continue to fill those cracks the same, and you can develop leaks. That's why it's risky to switch to synthetic if your engine has a lot of miles on it. I don't think residual "dino oil" is going to be a problem, so I wouldn't waste the money trying to "flush" your system of it. And it's probably best not to use an engine cleaner either... I've heard some pretty nasty things about those as well. Since you seem to be pretty set on a full synthetic, just do it. If you're worried the two oils won't be compatible co-existing in your engine (there most likely won't be a problem though), just drain the old stuff for a while longer than you normally would. No use wasting money changing your oil twice in two weeks. Good luck!
And about the wrench... it's nothing to do with cold weather and everything to do with being able to reach from underneath my truck. It's kind of high when you're down there on your back, so instead of trying to hold my upper torso up while taking it off, I use the wrench to loosen it and then spin it the rest of the way by hand. I put it back on by hand, always. Plus, by then, there isn't any hot oil pouring out at you...

 

If i remeber my histrory and chemistry correctly, synthetic oils got a bad name in the beginning because they were parrifin based. After awhile a waxy buildup would be found in smaller passages and eventually starve the engine. When mixed regular oil, the buildup happened much quicker, hence the idea that synthetics do not mix with regular oil.
In the last couple/five years most synthetics switched to a petroleum base, and can be blended with no problems but some of the less expensive synths are still using a parrifin base. Be careful and read the bottle...