Looking for a little input if you will give your two cents, I would be gratefull. At this time I have an 1980 Bronco I have had her for most of her life (got 1982) it now being 2005 am looking maybe move on to a newer bronco and was wanting input as to what you guys feel is a good year for the bronco.... thanks look forward to hearing what you have to say

 

I've owned an '89 Bronco and a '96 Bronco. If I had it to do over again, I'd never have sold the '96. The truck was absolutely perfect, mechanically and with respect to the "amenities". Powerplant was a 5.8l and I never had any serious mechanical issues. Transmission was an E4OD, never had an issue. Hubs were auto and worked every time. I kept up my end of the bargain and did all the preventive maintenance suggested and a little more as I enjoy the satisfaction of saving money and enjoy working on the "beast". There wasn't a lot of needed upgrades, I put in an AM/FM cassette/CD and two extra speakers in the back. I ran 31" tires on her on chrome wagon wheels. I added two 100w driving lights and two 50w fog lights and changed all the shocks to Rancho. But none of what I did was necessary, it just helped me like her a little more. I see her almost every other day and have a standing offer to buy her back if I cannot find a replacement, been looking for over a year for just the right one. Okay enough rambling, '96 hands down. The pinnacle of the evolution, at least for me. You are going to get several answers and they will all be right, for each owner who has a favorite. You have to decide which model is right for you. All the best in your search, don't settle. Get exactly what you want, I promise only that will satisfy you.

Tex (missin' the Bronco!)

 

I had a 1979 in highschool 351 V8 thing was a bruser got rid of it after I broke the front axle housing in three places in one day I just got a 1996 V8 5.0 5 speed manual 4 wheel drive shift WARN Manual hubs all vinyl interior power nothing I LOVE it I always swore I would get another one and just found this one in September and it is in perfect shape .... or was until I slid it down my drive way past a tree and crunched up the whole passanger side but i love body work so it will be fun project this winter.
I have always heard that the 1979 since it was a transtion year from the prevous style is the best year for off roading it was built heaver? not sure about that but I se a lot of 79 turned into off road monsters My vore right now 79 or 96 ( It is the last and there fore must be the best that it every was right they worked out all the kinks by then ..................ya right)

 

I've had three and I have to say the last year was the best ......... '96

Eddie Baur, 5.8L , E4OD tranny, running 33" Dueler A/Ts on stock rims.



Mike
'96 5.8L EB

 

Before I bought my 1996, I checked consumer report, and the 1996 manual 302 has the least problems.

 

Let me save you some time here bro. I just spent the better part of the last year researching Broncos. And hunting them down at many of shady dealerships. You want the following combo.
1996 Ford Bronco XLT
5.8 (351W) Plant
Manual Hubs
Manual Transfer Case
Quad Shocks (this is a matter of prefrence but the Bronco is a heavy critter and the more to cushion the blow the better.)
Tow package (comes with tranny cooler, wich will extend the life of your E4OD, and the aformentioned quad shocks)

Stay clear of Broncos outfitted with lots of off road gear (big lifts, huge tires etc...) as they were prolly abused.
Really take the time to check out transmissions. Drive it with "spirit" on your test drive. Go on the freeway, up and down diffrent grades, shift through all the gears. Then pull the dip stick and sniff the fluid. Should smell sweet not burnt. Should look red.
Be weary of trucks that have tow break controllers. You don't want a truck that spent its weekdays driving a guy to work in stop-go traffic only to spend weekends pulling a 7000 lbs of boat up a mountian. Also check around the rear bumper tow hitch for wear as this will give you some indication of how much towing she did.
Check oil before the moter is started. Lots of people like to show you how good she runs buy quickly turning it on before you even look under the hood. But if they have put a thicker grade oil in to keep it from knocking, the heat stirred up from the start will thin it out a lil. Plus you can get an accurate reading of the oil right away to see if it's at the right level.
Give the undercarriage a "hows your father" check both drive shafts for play. Check the level in the Transfercase and the diffs. Check suspention for exsessive wear an tear (knocks in the oil and tranny pan bent control arms etc...)
Take it in and out of 4WD 5 or 6 times.
Get a carfax
check the Tailgate and rear 1/4 panels for rust

I know you have prolly bought a car before and know what to check for but these are some of the most common trouble spots I ran across in my search for the Perfect Bronco. These rigs are 9 Years old at best so know its got some history. Just try and rout the crap from the goods. Mine was $7200 and has 85,000 miles and besides two dents looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. I love this truck and it has found its final owner. One more thing. The 95 is practically the same truck with the exeption that the 96's came with a M.A.F. sensor. However the California 1995's came with the Mas Airflow Sensor as well so if its a Cali truck its basically a 96 sans the Blinker mirrors.

 

As suggested somewhat earlier we should have a forum page on which well thought out responses to specific questions are addressed. This is a well thought out response. Incidently, I concur with the '95-'96 comparison, especially with the California qualification. Look for an honest Bronco like you look for an honest seller.

Tex

 

Thanks for everyones input.... it has helped out alot i will let you know what i get thanks again

 

Year-to-Year Changes

1991 Ford Bronco: An anniversary-edition model marked the Bronco's 25th season. The 3-speed automatic transmission had disappeared, making an electronically controlled 4-speed unit available with all engines.

1992 Ford Bronco: Front ends featured a new grille and rounded sheetmetal. Mirrors also were new. The 5.8-liter engine dipped from 210 to 200 horsepower. An XLT Nite model flaunted a monochrome black exterior and Nite insignia, but would last only a single season.

1993 Ford Bronco: Four-wheel ABS was installed in '93, replacing a 2-wheel setup. The 5.0-liter V8, at 185 horsepower, became standard. This year, the regular XLT got a monochromatic exterior (but black was not the only color offered). All but the Custom could have Touch Drive, which required an automatic transmission.

1994 Ford Bronco: A driver-side airbag came in '94. The 5.0-liter V8 added 20 horsepower and the 5.8-liter reverted to 210 horses.

1995 Ford Bronco: A new sport trim package for the XLT included a body-colored grille and bumpers, new running-board steps, and deep-dish aluminum wheels. The Eddie Bauer got a new bumper with air intakes.

1996 Ford Bronco: As an industry first, Broncos got optional futuristic mirrors that displayed turn-signal pointers in the glass surface. Bronco was replaced by the New Ford Expedition for 1997.


Road Test Evaluation

Even the 6-cylinder engine provides sufficient power for adequate acceleration, though we prefer V8s for their stronger performance. Best all-around choice is the 5.0-liter, providing satisfying acceleration and relaxed cruising ability, without using much more fuel than a six. Gas mileage with either V8 is poor. A light throttle foot is needed to keep from dipping into single-digit figures in city driving, and 20 mpg on the open road is about the best most drivers can hope for. Four-wheel antilock braking is safer than 2-wheel, maintaining better steering control in panic stops. It works when the vehicle is in 4WD, when conditions may make it most beneficial.

Capping the rear portion of the Bronco's cabin with a fiberglass shell promoted squeaks, and offered much less isolation from road and wind noise than the full-metal body of a Blazer or Yukon.


Space for six adults, ample cargo capacity, heavy-duty towing power, and rugged off-road capabilities are Bronco's main attractions. Minuses include unwieldy size (clumsy in urban driving), a jouncy ride, and poor fuel economy. Tall and bulky, a Bronco is difficult to maneuver through dense traffic. Occupants also face a rather tall step-up into the interior.


Value for the Money

With only two side doors, a Bronco is less convenient for family use than a 4-door Grand Wagoneer or smaller Cherokee/Wagoneer.
Each vehicle report contains one rating table for a representative model. We rate in seven key areas: Performance, Fuel Economy, Ride Comfort, Interior Noise, Passenger Room, Cargo Capacity, and Insurance Costs. These ratings are given taking into account the "world" of vehicles, not a vehicle's standing in a particular class. In the ratings table, "1" is the lowest rating and "5" is the highest rating.
Consumer Guide Road Test Ratings
1996 Ford Bronco 5.0-liter Ratings
Performance 4
Fuel Economy 1
Ride Quality 2
Quietness 2
Interior Room 5
Cargo Capacity 5
Insurance Costs 4
Total 23

Specifications Ford Bronco 2-door wagon
Wheelbase, in. 104.7
Overall Length, in. 183.6
Overall Width, in. 79.1
Overall Height, in. 74.4
Curb Weight, lbs. 4616
Cargo Volume, cu. ft. 101.4
Standard Payload, lbs. --
Fuel Capacity, gals. 32.0
Seating Capacity 6
Front Head Room, in. 41.2
Max. Front Leg Room, in. 41.1
Rear Head Room, in. 39.3
Min. Rear Leg Room, in. 37.7
Specifications Key: NA = not available; "--" = measurement does not exist.

NHTSA Crash Test Results 1996 Bronco 2-door wagon
Crash Test Driver 5
Crash Test Passenger 5
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) tests a vehicle's crashworthiness in front- and side-impact collisions and rates its resistance to rollovers. Their test results suggest the chance of serious injury, while rollover resistance ratings are based on how top heavy the vehicle is and indicate the chance for rollover when the vehicle leaves the roadway. Front crash test numbers indicate: 5 = 10% or less; 4 = 10-20%; 3 = 20-35%; 2 = 35-45%; 1 = More than 45%. Side impact numbers indicate: 5 = 5% or less; 4 = 6-10%; 3 = 11-20%; 2 = 21-25%; 1 = More than 26%. Rollover resistance numbers indicate: 5 = Less than 10%; 4 = 10-20%; 3 = 20-30%; 2 = 30-40%; 1 = More than 40%.
Powertrain Options and Availability

Since 1993, when the 6-cylinder engine disappeared, 5.0- and 5.8-liter V8s have been the sole engines. The 5.0-liter V8 gained 20 horsepower in 1994, but put out 10 fewer horses with automatic than with manual shift. By 1996, that engine was rated 199 horsepower with either transmission. Auto-lock front hubs were standard by 1994, with manual hubs a credit option. Upscale Broncos with automatic might have pushbutton-controlled Touch Drive. Others use a floor lever to shift the transfer case. The 5.8-liter V8 came only with 4-speed automatic; others could have manual shift.
Engines Size liters/
cu. in. Horsepower Torque EPA city/hgwy Consumer Guide Observed
ohv I6 4.9 / 300 145-150 260-265 5-speed manual: 14/17
3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: 14/18
5-speed manual: --
3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: --

ohv V8 5.0 / 302 185-205 270-275 5-speed manual: 14/17
3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: 13/17
5-speed manual: --
3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: --

ohv V8 5.8 / 351 200-210 300-328 3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: 12/16
3-speed automatic: --
4-speed automatic: --
Notes: Engine Key: ohv = overhead valve; ohc = overhead camshaft; dohc = dual overhead camshaft; I = inline cylinders; V = cylinders in a V configuration; H = horizontally opposed cylinders; CVT = continuously variable (automatic) transmission; NA = not available; "--" = measurement does not exist.

Trouble Spots lists the many commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems.
Trouble Spots

Audio system: Whining noises in the radio speakers are caused by the gas tank fuel pump. An electronic noise filter must be installed on the fuel pump. (1990-96)

Automatic transmission: Shifting problems occur when water seeps into the sensor that reports the position of the shift lever. A service kit is available to fix it. (1990-94)

Brakes: The parking brake pedal spontaneously drops to the floor because the adjustment pawl does not engage. (1992-94)

Brakes: The transmission may be able to shift out of park without the brakes being applied if the center high-mount stoplamp is burned out or missing. (1994-95)

Engine knock: A knocking sound on startup on 5.8-liter engines is likely due to a problem with the secondary air pump. (1995-96)

Engine knock: A knocking noise on vehicles with the 4.9-liter engine may be due to insufficient oil requiring a new filter mounting insert and antidrainback oil filter. (1990-95)

Engine noise: The drive belt on 5.0- and 5.8-liter engines chirps because of misalignment caused by the water pump pulley. (1990-94)


--- Fish-Hawk says "I noticed that my 1996 302 manual avoided the most trouble spots. This information was from a consumer report web page."


Fish-Hawk <><

 

My 2cents - since you asked......
I've owned 1-'66, still own 2-'79s, and 1-'96. Wish i still had the '66, any year is a good one. IMHO.
If you want ride comfort, the IFS would be the choice, if you want a true 4x4 COMFORT ride, get the solid front suspension, I don't think one could go wrong with either - I like to argue, so i have each
Best thing to do is not be in a hurry ta buy, that would be true anytime you buy used......Check it out good.
One of my '79s AC and rear window (knock on wood) have worked great for years
Good luck with whatever year you buy(with the r/window anyway):P

 

Well I'll tell ya this Fish-Hawk, and I dont mean to offend here, but I have never heard a Bronco owner say "Man, I wish I would've got the 5 litre instead of the 351 Winsor." But I have heard it the other way around. Both are good Plants without doubt. But, I have fogged both Moters and the 302 does have less "uuuumpf".Now if these were Ranger Pick-ups then I really think that the 302 would be choice for a street truck application (Dodge put its 318 in front of the Dakota so there is a market for such things, Ford) But if your gunna buy a Full-Size Bronco get a full size Block and trust me... you will not regret it. I will tell ya on my way to Las Vegas in Grand Junction I ran across a guy with a Beutifull early 90's Bronc with a Str8 6 haulin a 79 Firebird through the rockies and claims to do that very trip with two Firebirds (very heavy *** cars) regulerly. So do what you will with that nugget.

 

If you going to wheel it or plow with it avoid anything from 92-96
unless you plan to weld plates over the front frame crumple zones.

 

the 96 even though being the last year isnt necessarily the better model. that is the only year running obd-II which sucks. its a stubborn system almost as bad as speed density. 94-95 were in my mind the better years for efi broncos. now if you want to wheel an have strength to boot then the 78-79 bronco is the only way to go.

 

78 or 79 they have all the parts that the rest of the years want swapped on and a 460 goes in very very easy

hagen
79 bronco 460 c6 d44 8lug d60 now on board air

 

Dudemaestro- I have to disagree with you on the 302-351 issue. I have a Silver Anniversary with the 5.0 and my Dad has the 351 in his. When I drive his rig I really don't see the difference with the 5.8 over my 5.0 except when we tow our car trailer it has a little more ummph to it under load. As far as off the line, mine has much more get up a go quicker than his does. I don't tow with mine, just off road fun and mountain climbing. I wouldn't trade it for a 351w, now a 460 is different story