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True you won't have your maximun advance below 2,500 but can your motor take that much advance at lower rpm's under load with todays bad gas and not detonate? The 410 at 9.10:1 cr starts at 12 degrees, 38 degrees total at 2,250 on mid grade with auto. This took alot of time and testing, every motor is different. Altitude, temperature, load pulled, gearing, motor temperature, how heavy you right foot is and fuel quality all must be considered. What works for me may not work for you.
Ok I Have disconected The vacume advance ( this btw cured a host of problems ) now I have the total advance set at 36* at around 2700 rpm.
However it doesnt seem to have as much power as befor, With the timing set
at 12* at Idle it was running around 42* total at 2700rpm.which would indacate
it is in the "15" slot.So now my Idle is at 6*and it's lost a lot of pep at takeoff.
I am working on reworking the stop to set it for 14* inital it "Seem's" to like
that idle setting for some reason. Now mind you this is a stock 352 not high compresion and I have been able to run 87 octain fuel so far.Is 36* still the # to shoot for ?
How do you get the slop out of the points plate with the vacume modual removed ? It it kinda loose in their and can move around, have any of you found a way to modifi it so it is solid ? I run a pertronics unit so point are not a consern.
jav I would get a good qualtiy(Echlin, Stardard, Borg Warner) vacuum advance unit and reconnect it! You are noticing a lack of power because you aren't getting enough advance at part throttle.
A lot of the quality units are adjustable for amount and start point for advance. They are not adjustable seperately. Only one adjustment that affects both is what I am trying to say.
Putt i'm running the old style vacuum unit that you can adjust how many degress total and when it comes in. I believe it was a smog thing that killed the OEM units.There is a place in Oz that can rebuild units, they did one for my Rover for $46, dealer price $107 and they only last two years. I'll send them a E-mail about rebuilding Ford units. On the above thread you should install the vacuum unit, without your motor will not pull low end as well a poor fuel mileage.
Agree with you, Carl. I think the one adjustment inside the vacuum nipple affects both settings. It does on mine, anyway. The vacuum advance holds the point plate in position, with out it the plate can move on its own.
ok now im realy confused, some of you say get rid of the vacume advance, and some of you say I need to reconect it. I rechecked my timeing this morning, Im getting full advance at 2700 rpm of 32* my inital timing is 10*
So the disrtro is in the 13* slot. My gas milage has gone up not down sence disconnecting it. my Idle rpm returnes to the same place every time now. Maby the vacume advance thing is bad. It has no leak's I tested that. But with it hooked up,My idle rpm changes all the time, my gas milage goes down and i burn lean.
Leave it connected. I am leaving my disconnected for now because it doseant hurt anything and it wasant working in the first place. When I get the money, I plan on buying a Crane adjustable unit.
I got a E-mail reply from a advance unit rebuilder in Oz, I have used them in the past on the Rover, and it still works great. The E-mail, perfignition@netspace.net.au. For the FE motor they want $50 AUD ($39.40 USD), airmail up to $15 AUD ($11.82 USD). As I have only one NIB old style "fully adjustable" unit left I'll send a core for rebuild later.
jav-it could be that you are getting too much vac adv at a low vacuum signal. The unit works against spring tension, the adj(if it has it) can come apart, or the spring can break. It will still hold vacuum since the diaphragm is good, but it won't act properly.
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