[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Jun-02 AT 10:17 PM (EST)]I was out in the hills this afternoon in 4x4 and something happened. I noticed a bad clunking noise on sharp turns, felt like drivetrain binding, but it never happened before. I shifted into 2 wheel, but kept getting the noise. Unlocked the hubs and it stopped. Now I'm also getting a hard pull to the left, when braking it's much worse. On my inspection, I found the front driveshaft looks to be at an odd angle, and the differential (looking from back) looks like it's turned up. It was hard to tell, but my '95 looks like there's less of an angle, so I think something's wrong here. I can't figure out how this could even happen from looking at the diagram in my Haynes book. Why would it pull so hard to that side while braking? Nothing else is bent or broken from what I can tell.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/e5f3d5aa/bc/trucks/other+pics/DSCN0005.jpg?bcRSPK9AVcrPxDC_

(I guess you'll have to copy & paste, I can't get the pic to show up.)
I don't know how easy it is to tell, but there looks to be more of an angle than before. Is this my problem, and how do I go about fixing it? Thanks in avance.

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT longbed 4x4 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

Hey I was thinking about it and it sounds like a bad u-joint on the outboard shaft. Take a look and see. Let me know how you make out.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Jun-02 AT 12:10 PM (EST)]-----

 

Check all of your u-joints. Your brake problem could be caused by brake either pushing to much or not enough or both.



82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo

 

Well guys, I finally got time to look at it and figured it out. I broke a radius arm. The top part where it mounts to the axle under the spring broke. I even had the tire off looking around and still didn't see it at first. I was beginning to think I was imagining the differential pointing "up" because I couldn't find anything wrong.
How hard is this going to be to replace? I have the rivets replaced with bolts from previously doing radius arm bushings .

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT longbed 4x4 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

Hello Brown 4x4,

Well the easiest part of the job will be at the bushings where you already have replaced the rivets. The tuff part will be at the I beam. That through bolt can be a bitch! You may need some heat but I have seen some come out with a good tap but rare to see it. If you need detailed instructions just let us know.

 

If you can get the front end high enough, you can swing the axles down to get the radius arms out of the rear brackets. A little trick I learned at a front-end shop. The rivets can be a bear w/o the right tools.

2cents.........